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WFWalby

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I need just the leading edges of 4-G10 Fins (0.13" thick) beveled so the bevel is 0.7" wide. The fin LE is 7.5" long. Can someone suggest where I could have this done? I checked with Nat at Upscale CNC and he's not set up to do this.
Thanks
William
 
I need just the leading edges of 4-G10 Fins (0.13" thick) beveled so the bevel is 0.7" wide. The fin LE is 7.5" long. Can someone suggest where I could have this done? I checked with Nat at Upscale CNC and he's not set up to do this.
Thanks
William
How critical is the width of the bevel? 0.7" wide is very specific. Some DYI'ers like myself rely on fixed angle bits such as 5 degree and 15 degree. The width of of the bevel depends on the material thickness and the bits being used.

Here is an example of a 5 degree Foredom bit on 0.125" thick G10:
Capture1.JPGCapture2.JPG
 
+1 to what Justin said, but you don't even need to be that exotic. Seems strange considering how common this task is that I don't see more mention of router tables. A straight bit and an adjustable fence is just the ticket for this sort of job. The fence angles away from the bit and you set the fence to give you the reveal you need. You can practice on any thickness stock to get the bevel width the width you want. Once set, run your fins on both sides and you are done.

If I were doing a lot of this I'd make a right angle sled with hold downs so the fin is kept flat and your fingers out of the way. I use my router table all the time for tasks like this.
 
wildman can do it for you
but its not that hard with a router or sander
 
I have used my router table with a straight bit and an make-shift angled fence for straight bevels. I used double-sided tape to stick the fin to a backer board to keep my fingers out of the way. (sorry; no pictures of that)

I have also used a router with a edging bit to make rounded fin edges.

ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1481848300.976001-2.jpg ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1481848322.985695-2.jpg ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1481848342.339782.jpg
 
I have used my router table with a straight bit and an make-shift angled fence for straight bevels. I used double-sided tape to stick the fin to a backer board to keep my fingers out of the way. (sorry; no pictures of that)

I have also used a router with a edging bit to make rounded fin edges.

View attachment 437056 View attachment 437057 View attachment 437058

This task on this rocket kit is on my winter 'to do' list. Thanks for the pictures!
 
How critical is the width of the bevel? 0.7" wide is very specific. Some DYI'ers like myself rely on fixed angle bits such as 5 degree and 15 degree. The width of of the bevel depends on the material thickness and the bits being used.

Here is an example of a 5 degree Foredom bit on 0.125" thick G10:
View attachment 437015View attachment 437016
BEAUTIFUL work!
 
How critical is the width of the bevel? 0.7" wide is very specific. Some DYI'ers like myself rely on fixed angle bits such as 5 degree and 15 degree. The width of of the bevel depends on the material thickness and the bits being used.

Here is an example of a 5 degree Foredom bit on 0.125" thick G10:
View attachment 437015View attachment 437016
I have viewed a video that John Coker was kind enough to share of the jig he uses for this very purpose.
 
How critical is the width of the bevel? 0.7" wide is very specific. Some DYI'ers like myself rely on fixed angle bits such as 5 degree and 15 degree. The width of of the bevel depends on the material thickness and the bits being used.

Here is an example of a 5 degree Foredom bit on 0.125" thick G10:
View attachment 437015View attachment 437016
How effective would a high-heat metallic paint be in protecting the LE from fraying at supersonic speeds? Might there be additives to the paint that could help it survive even if just as an ablative for those precious few seconds needed? Thoughts?
 
How effective would a high-heat metallic paint be in protecting the LE from fraying at supersonic speeds? Might there be additives to the paint that could help it survive even if just as an ablative for those precious few seconds needed? Thoughts?
How fast for how long? There's certainly some ablative experience on the forum here, but most folks won't need it for most flights.
 
How critical is the width of the bevel? 0.7" wide is very specific. Some DYI'ers like myself rely on fixed angle bits such as 5 degree and 15 degree. The width of of the bevel depends on the material thickness and the bits being used.
Here is an example of a 5 degree Foredom bit on 0.125" thick G10:
View attachment 437015View attachment 437016

Thanks for the info. However right now I'm not looking to go out and buy a router and router table etc just for this set of fins. It's why I asked about a "Service".
Curious about how wide those bevels are with the 5 deg bit and 0.125" G10
Thanks,
William
 
It's simple math. Attached is a scale drawing of .125 thick material with the line starting exactly at the center. As you can see, that would give you a .72" long chamfer, assuming the fin came to a knife point. That is with a 10 degree cutter. 5 degrees it would be twice as long.

10 degrees.jpg
 
I've posted this before, but unfortunately I could not find the link. It's a very simple fin sanding jig that has produced excellent results on fins from 3/16 up to .3". (Of course you need a jig for each fin thickness.) The design is easy to reproduce- simply create a rectangle and subtract the triangle that forms the interior (with 15º sides or whatever angle you want). Subtract a rectangle just slightly larger than the fin thickness (I do some very small test prints to find the right value. Then subtract cylinders to form the screw holes. I use wet/dry sandpaper and started with 80 grit and then worked up to 220. I wet sand in a big utility sink to help eliminate any dust.

Of course you need to have a 3D printer or know someone that does.

A word of warning though, you can create a leading edge that is sharp enough to cut, which I learned the hard way - at least twice!


Tony


sanding-jig.jpg
side-view.jpg
finished.jpg
 
Curious about how wide those bevels are with the 5 deg bit and 0.125" G10

Right at 5/8" aka 0.625". If interested, I can provide this service to you. Mail me the fins plus some $ to get them back to you. In regards to the service, pay me what you think its worth.
Resized_20201104_133126_4002.jpeg
 
I've posted this before, but unfortunately I could not find the link. It's a very simple fin sanding jig that has produced excellent results on fins from 3/16 up to .3". (Of course you need a jig for each fin thickness.) The design is easy to reproduce- simply create a rectangle and subtract the triangle that forms the interior (with 15º sides or whatever angle you want). Subtract a rectangle just slightly larger than the fin thickness (I do some very small test prints to find the right value. Then subtract cylinders to form the screw holes. I use wet/dry sandpaper and started with 80 grit and then worked up to 220. I wet sand in a big utility sink to help eliminate any dust.

Of course you need to have a 3D printer or know someone that does.

A word of warning though, you can create a leading edge that is sharp enough to cut, which I learned the hard way - at least twice!


Tony


View attachment 437270
View attachment 437271
View attachment 437272
Thank you so much for posting this. I've been looking at different beveling jigs for a while, but nothing quite satisfied me. I'm going to try this out as soon as I can.
 
Having never had or used a router, is there a router and table that you all would recommend for this purpose? There's a lot out there and I just don't know where the sweet spot is for cost vs. capabilities. Advice welcomed.
 
Having never had or used a router, is there a router and table that you all would recommend for this purpose? There's a lot out there and I just don't know where the sweet spot is for cost vs. capabilities. Advice welcomed.

When I bought mine, likely 10 years ago give or take, it was a Ryobi router table/router combo for like 100 or 125 bucks on a Black Friday deal from Home Depot. Keep an eye out this year, see if they have something similar!

Here is a cheap option that might be workable: https://www.harborfreight.com/route...MIzeWG4e2Z7QIVC9vACh3ryQsvEAQYAiABEgIL4_D_BwE

Otherwise if I had to replace my Ryobi, I would go this route:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-U...VC9vACh3ryQsvEAQYASABEgL95vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Plus:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-8-5-Amp-1-1-2-Peak-HP-Fixed-Base-Router-R1631K/206757945
 
Having never had or used a router, is there a router and table that you all would recommend for this purpose? There's a lot out there and I just don't know where the sweet spot is for cost vs. capabilities. Advice welcomed.
Mark,

Do keep in mind I'm happy to bevel any fins for ya anytime as well!
tyv.JPG
 
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