filling body tube spirals

[Pat Butler]

I read something on a website one time that I started doing for my nicer rockets. This guy recommended also cutting out the spiral on the body tube that is the smooth one. In reality, there is a gap under the smooth spiral that can flex depending on the temperature. It only takes a few minutes to cut the top layer of glassine off the other spiral. I'll usually put CA on it and let that dry before then using FNF.

 

[Micromeister]

I completely stopped using all these filler coat materials years ago, particularly on bodytube seams.

If your going to be using primer anyway, a couple extra coats completely and quickly removes the seam lines and can fill balsa/basswood grain as well.

For the last few years I've beem using the cheapest primer I can get my hands on, K-Mart "Fresh & Easy" Grey Auto primer. It's not as Hi-build as some of the other more expensive primer like dupli-color but nomally on an average size Model Rocket a $1.10 (single can price) does the entire job. On larger models like the Interceptor-E it took a can and a half.
If you can talk to the store manager sometimes they'll let you piggy-back a "quantiy" order with their normal stock orders. This may sometime cause a little delay on getting the product, but the longest i've waited for a shippment was about 3 weeks. Generally I'll order 24 to 30 cans (5 or 6 cases) which will last about a year My most recent order came it at .99/12oz can. I can't complain about that price a bit
The stuff works wonderfully under Krylon, Colorworks, Dupli-color and Rustoleum paints, adhears to the tubes well and sands very nicely.

I saw someone talking about Kilz primer again.
Guys! please read the lable on that stuff! It really isn't a primer at all; It's a stain and color Killer coat for Drywall & house paint. It has NO adhesion power at all other then surface tension. I've lost at least 3 or 4 differrent paint jobs all the way to bare tube, trying this stuff on the recommendation of others, while second color taping with very low tac masks. I no longer use or recommend this junk at all.
Much better to have to add a couple extra coat of the thinner primer, then loose an entire paint job to lack of adhesion. And the stuff take DAYS to completely dry.
You new memebers should really try the Search button on this subject. there have been some really good discussions on the subject.

 

[ctus]

I saw someone talking about Kilz primer again.
Guys! please read the lable on that stuff! It really isn't a primer at all; It's a stain and color Killer coat for Drywall & house paint. It has NO adhesion power at all other then surface tension. I've lost at least 3 or 4 differrent paint jobs all the way to bare tube, trying this stuff on the recommendation of others, while second color taping with very low tac masks. I no longer use or recommend this junk at all.
Much better to have to add a couple extra coat of the thinner primer, then loose an entire paint job to lack of adhesion. And the stuff take DAYS to completely dry.
You new memebers should really try the Search button on this subject. there have been some really good discussions on the subject.

Micro...I in no way have as much experience as you do with finishing. You have some great advice for people, myself included.

However, I have more than a handful rockets where I have only used Kilz as a filler/ "primer", and haven't had any paint issues at all. And several of these have multiple mach+ flights on them. Maybe I'm just lucky, but then again, I know a lot of people who do the same and don't seem to have any issues either.

 

[lessgravity]

I've used KILZ for years. Hundreds of rockets later I can say that I have NEVER had an issue. This is one of the most important products I use on everything from LPR to HPR. I've tried many other primers but have found KILZ to be superior(in my opinion) than anything else.
However, I stress, that the building process is a personal one. Try different things and settle upon the one that suits you best. Micromeister does some of the best work I've seen and doesn't use KILZ. Just take a look at the almost full page picture in Sport Rocketry of his Orbital Transport.
I personally use a combination of F-N-F and KILZ.
Try several approaches and use what works best for you.

 

[Micromeister]

I'm not trying to start an argument or dis anyone or thing, I'm simply passing on first hand expeniences I've suffered trying to use this stuff.
I really did hope it would be a good product as it's thickness out of the can was impressive, but after the third peel to the bare (sanded) tube, and several lifts on other parts that really shouldn't have after leaving a product like this dry for more then a week. I just have to sound the warning to all, BE Ware of KILZ. It's not ment for what we're doing with it and your results can and will vary
I HATE surprises! expecially when finishing a model.

Ps: in all fairness that model in sport rocketry is OLDER then Kilz LOL! and with more then 25 flights at the time that pic was taken. Shoot the decals on it were "copier" printed on Krylon clear sprayed, Water based paper package wraping tape and Hand painted on adhesive backed vinyl (pre-Alps printer). Ahh she was a nice model hopefully I'll rebuild her someday.

 

[Stymye]

micro did you sand the tube well before applying? , if the kilz is peeling off something is not right.

 

[heada]

I've had good luck with Kilz but I don't use it by itself. I prep the tube with a light sanding and then use a good primer (Dupli-Color high-build) to seal the tube as well as give a good base. I'll then use a few coats of Kilz (original, not Kilz2) to fill seams with a good sanding between coats. Once I'm happy, I'll put on one more coat of the good primer to seal the Kilz. At this point I'll put on my base color and any secondary colors (using acrylic lacquers....hmmmm, nice stuff)

Only time I've had paint peel with this type of application is when an entire fin shears off on landing or a launch lug get pulled off from off-center thrust on a cluster that didn't ignite correctly.

-Aaron

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

I've used KILZ for years. Hundreds of rockets later I can say that I have NEVER had an issue.
[...]

I, too, have had perfect results from Kilz (probably more like dozens, and not 100s!). The secret is getting glassine off the tubes -- Kilz is primarily used to SEAL drywall, and even painted walls, so it does penetrate porous surfaces. That said, I'd never use it on a plastic nose cone.

My personal favorite is Duplicolor Primer-Filler, since it has a high degree of fillers, unlike most of the cheap bargain brands I've tried. I've seen ColorPlace primer at Walmart for 99 cents a can, but if I need a whole can for a rocket, I'd rather use Duplicolor and get several rockets out of it. (OK, I haven't ACTUALLY tried ColorPlace, so if it has lots of filler, and sands easily, and is your favorite, chime in!)

Again, it's a personal preference thing, but I am always interested in what works for others. And I'm always wondering why a product that appears to work for many (like Kilz), does not work for others. Perhaps weather plays a factor, too. Here is Colorado, it is DRY. "Humid" and "humidity" are not found typically in our vocabulary, unless it gets into the double digits (way up there, too, like 11%). Then people start to complain about the humidity.

 

[rokitflite]

I used Kilz on a couple of models and it worked really well... The two reasons I don't use it anymore is the smell, its the only paint that gives me a headache even several days after application, and the dust from sanding it sticks to my hands like crazy... I actually have 2 models I have to finish sanding with the Kilz... I am just avoiding it. I pretty much use the Duplicolor stuff now.

 

[RoyGreen]

I use Plasti-Kote Spot Filler and Primer... I've used the regular Sandable primer and the Duplicolor Sandable primer and neither performs filling as well. I do use Fill'n'Finish to prep the balsa surfaces. 320 grit paper for sanding. Light 320 wet sanding after the first coat of SF&P, then a 1000 grit wet sanding after the second coat.

I used to do Sig Sanding Sealer after the F'n'F, but find the Plasti-Kote does just fine by itself.

I used Kilz once, and found it way too heavy, took longer to rid itself of solvents and oils, and it continued to out-gas for a couple of weeks.