Falcon 54 extreme minimum diameter build

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I looked at the forecast and scrubbed my prep for my flight. 20+ MPH winds Saturday doesn't interest me being out on the prairie. Sunday looks a bit better, but it is all a matter if people want to setup and wait for a window on Sunday.

Weather.jpg

Edward
 
I looked at the forecast and scrubbed my prep for my flight. 20+ MPH winds Saturday doesn't interest me being out on the prairie. Sunday looks a bit better, but it is all a matter if people want to setup and wait for a window on Sunday.

View attachment 365504

Edward
Yeah, though I am hoping for that to be completely wrong. Waiting to see if we are even allowed by the forest service to launch.
 
I looked at the forecast and scrubbed my prep for my flight. 20+ MPH winds Saturday doesn't interest me being out on the prairie. Sunday looks a bit better, but it is all a matter if people want to setup and wait for a window on Sunday.

View attachment 365504

Edward

Where does this graphic come from? Lots of good information there.
 
Well, the weather is not being nice to us. The launch has been greenlit by the ranger service, but the winds are not looking good. The current prediction is for 20-35 mph surface winds. I haven't even bothered checking winds aloft. I might still go, but if the winds are anything like predicted the Saturday launch just won't happen. Sunday is a backup launch day, so I will check with the club president to see if that day will just be used.

-Matthew
 
Hello,
Sadly the launch didn't happen due to high winds. I will be beginning work on the second build shortly. Keep watching and I will try my best to keep up with posting it.

Thanks,
Matthew
 
Hopefully December will work out to fly this rocket - it will be interesting to see. I'm waiting for March or April for the next high altitude window for my flight.

Edward
 
Hopefully December will work out to fly this rocket - it will be interesting to see. I'm waiting for March or April for the next high altitude window for my flight.

Edward

You could fly it from Pueblo on Saturday on a smaller motor to check out your recovery. The forecast looks good.
 
Gentlemen, it is time for an update on this build. I have ordered more vacuum bagging materials and built up a new booster and filleted everything. Falcon 54 XTRM.jpg Falcon 54 XTRM fillets.jpg

These fillets have been done with RocketPoxy. I did some testing and at the 250 degree cure temp for the Cotronics 4470 will not effect the RocketPoxy.

To do list for this project:
Sand fillets and body tube
Sand off the paint on nosecone
Build the electronics sled
Figure out how to get a camera inside the airframe
Do ejection tests
Laminate the fins
Paint
Clear coat

I have everything correctly spaced out this time and double checked that the fins are not warped. I will be building a new oven with some aluminium foil coated foam insulation and properly designed airflow.

I will keep you guys up to date on the status of the oven, sanding and Av-bay/electronics sled. I need to redo it

I want to have a camera on this rocket inside the airframe, but I want to use an HD camera, so 1080p. Does anyone have a recommendation for one that will fit inside a 2.2" coupler?
 
Those little mobius ones are maybe $70 on Amazon. Or the 808 keychain one; they have a 1080p one now. Are you aiming it sideways through the wall?
 
Mobius mini is easy and great quality in a small footprint. If you want WiFi connectivity (which is nice for engaging the shutter) I like the RunCam 2 and then get the lens extending cable. Lots of easy mounting option.
 
Sq12 leaps to mind. Anyone try one?
I just ordered one for $20 from amazon. I have the 808 and the mini mobius, both are too long to fit horizontally inside the airframe. It should fit. Looking at the dimensions it is about 1" tall and looks like a cube. The Gopro session 4 also looks like an option because I can get it for about $100.

Thanks for the help peeps! Hopefully I can get this project launched this summer.
 
I could print you or send you the file for something like this. Makes it easy to mount a mini in an airframe. I wouldn’t mind tailoring it to your needs a little.


IMG_1014.jpgIMG_1015.jpgIMG_1016.jpg
IMG_1165.jpg
 
I am currently reading up on vacuum bagging. This article was shared with me by Warren Musselman, the author. He goes to the launches at Northern Colorado Rocketry and is very experienced with composite construction on rockets.
https://ncrocketry.club/topics/article/

I want to make sure I get this thing done right. I am currently planning out the oven. Pictures will follow and I plan to video the process.
 
Okie dokie people, time for an update. Thanks to BryRocket I have a way to mount the camera and altimeter in the coupler. The back plate of the camera mount is extended to accommodate the Telemetrum and it will all be mounted in the coupler on the threaded rod. This is the most stable and strongest way to mount the camera in the rocket using structural components that already need to be there. He is making hole drilling guides for the coupler as well. A big thanks to BryRocket for designing and printing it. sled 1.jpg sled 2.jpg

I don't have it yet but looking forward to seeing the design up close.

I have heard a lot of stories where people have had resin tipped nosecones melting and deforming causing rapid unplanned disassembly of their rockets. I do not want a rapid unplanned disassembly so I want to insulate it. The easiest way I can think of doing this is to spread some JB Weld or some Cotronics epoxy over the nosecone and sand it smooth to coat about the top third of the nosecone. If you have another idea on how to insulate it let me know as I am interested in learning more. I am not sure what material people use as an ablator on mach 3+ flights but I would love to know. After this rocket flies I plan on building a 3" version and then a 4" version so I will need to know these tricks.

I am going to start work on a new oven today. I have a filling cabinet and some foil coated insulation foam to make it. The first step is to rip everything out of the cabinet and cut the insulation to fit. I am going to create a tube that is specifically to heat the air with my outdoor space heater and use another heater with a fan to blow the heated air into the oven. The inlet for the heated air will be offset to cause the air to circulate within the oven. The reason I am doing it this way is because the heaters I have are too powerful and would likely overheat the epoxy and this is the best way I can think of to make it so I do not have the heater pointed directly at the rocket. I want to make absolutely sure I do not have hot spots in the oven that can cause a fin to warp as well. I will be using digital meat thermometers to measure the temperature around the oven and I will practice maintaining the temperature by hand. last time I used this epoxy it hardened after around 45 minutes, so after that I will take it out of the bag and leave it in the oven for the rest of the 4 hour cure time. I bought perforated release film to use under my peel ply so I can get a smoother finish on the epoxy out of the bag, despite this I think I will need to brush on another coat to make sure I can sand it and not have to worry about cutting the carbon fibers. Is it okay to brush this second coat on right after it comes out of the bag so I can reduce the amount of time I have to manage the oven and watch it with a fire extinguisher at the ready?

I will video the oven build and the lamination process. Hopefully I can find a friend interested in helping laminate this rocket.

To cut the carbon fiber the last time I used the rocket to create a paper template, then transferred that to cardboard and used this as a template for the carbon fiber. I would then line the edges with masking tape and cut through the tape so it would hold the threads in place. I cut this excess off after the cureing process. I will purposely cut the material a little larger to allow for the leading and trailing edges to get laminated.

I will cut 3 sections of the 2x2 twill with the point of the triangles facing down and 3 sections with the point facing up. The layer with the point facing down will be underneath the layer with the point facing up. I am no engineer yet, but with my limited knowledge I think this is the best way to layer the carbon for strength and ductility. If you look at the threads it creates so many triangles within the weave and will allow for some ductility because the fibers on the upper layer are perpendicular to the fibers of the lower layer but are at an angle to forces that are perpendicular to the fin. If I am completely wrong please let me know, and let me know why. I am here to learn.

To do list for this project:
Build new oven
Sand fillets and body tube
Build the Av-bay
Do ejection tests
Laminate the fins
Insulate the nosecone
Paint
Clear coat

If you have any suggestions, tips, ideas let me know!


I have been really busy with work and school lately so I haven't been able to do a whole lot of work on this project so it has stagnated.

-Matthew
 
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I have gutted the filing cabinet and cut the foam to size and inserted it into the filing cabinet.
20190623_162942.jpg

The sheet of foam leaning against it is the front. I will figure out exactly how I will heat this later, for now
I need to do some schoolwork. Online math classes move quick.
 
We have an old refrigerator turned into a oven to dry finish on gunstocks. It is heated by a light bulb. If the temp goes too high use a smaller bulb.
Putting the bulb in a vertical, couple foot length, of metal tube prevents it directly heating and creates a draft that circulates the air.
 
We have an old refrigerator turned into a oven to dry finish on gunstocks. It is heated by a light bulb. If the temp goes too high use a smaller bulb.
Putting the bulb in a vertical, couple foot length, of metal tube prevents it directly heating and creates a draft that circulates the air.
My son and I made a 'oven' for a science fair experiment that is very similar to a curing oven. We used a large light bulb, a dimmer, and an old computer fan. You don't need a lot of circulation, just enough to keep the temps even. The light bulb was separated from the main compartment with some extra insulation to prevent the radiant energy from creating a hotspot. The dimmer allowed us to control the temperature pretty easily. I think we used a 250 watt bulb which worked well for our needs, 500 watt bulbs are also readily available. A LabQuest with a thermocouple was set to record temps over time and to set alarms for high and low.

Lots of ways to do it, I've some that use the guts from a toaster over as the heater.


Tony
 
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I just tested this oven with the heater I have.20190625_111525.jpg 20190625_111534.jpg 20190625_111553.jpg

This thing pumps out a lot of heat. It has fans in it that blow the air past hot coils so it heats the air instead of just relying on infrared radiation for heating. I turned it on for a bit and holy hell this heats up FAST. In about a minute or two with the heater on and the door closed it was at a much higher temperature. At least 200 degrees. I need to buy a digital meat thermometer to stick through the foam front to find out how hot it is in there, but I have no doubt I will be able to reach the desired temperature with this. I will just use a bungee cord on the outside to hold the front on. I have some excess foam to insulate the safety sensor on the front of the heater so it does't turn off because the temp is too high. More testing is needed but I feel good about this ovens potential.
 

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