Estes SLS

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Just noticed the anchors sticking out in my SLS. I wonder if laying a smooth piece of tape over each would work. You would still have a small bulge but at least it would be smooth when the chute goes across them. What do you think?
 
I think that tape would be better than nothing, but over time, the ejection charge may blow off the tape. I think a soldering iron and/or glue would smooth it out better.
 
I don't have this kit, but if there's enough room between the top of the protruding tabs and the bottom of the nose cone to fit the recovery laundry, you can glue a centering ring to act as a shelf, like the TLP kits used to have.
The wadding will prevent the laundry from falling through the hole. Everything stays above the tabs.
You can easily make one with a fiber or cardboard sheet and a circle cutter or compass. Cut or punch a center hole or several smaller holes (like a baffle ring) to let the ejection gasses pass through. I would also smooth a layer of wood glue over the paper ring to give it some heat resistance before gluing it in.
An added benefit is that it keeps the weight of the laundry forward, and consequently keeps the CG forward as well.
 
Is it just me or does everyone have issues with Estes wadding? I know a lot of folks are using that insulation stuff, but it doesn't matter how many pieces of wadding I shove down the tube, I get my chutes burnt EVERY single flight. I even used 5 pieces in my Wizard once and the chute still burned! Very annoying.......

I addition to the wadding below the parachute,
I add a smaller square underneath wrapped around the low end of the packed chute.
The square is smaller (not over the top) so it peels away when ejected.

I rarely use the Estes style wadding and prefer flameproof crepe paper cut into 4" squares from larger rolls.

Wadding Wrap A.JPG
 
Just noticed the anchors sticking out in my SLS. I wonder if laying a smooth piece of tape over each would work. You would still have a small bulge but at least it would be smooth when the chute goes across them. What do you think?
I just finished my SLS, and what I did was use epoxy clay to attach a new elastic shock cord right behind one of the tabs, and smoothed it out over the tab a little.
Then I used a file to sand down the other one flush with the tube. I fished the rubber cord out through the motor mount and cut it off. Haven't tested it yet, but will post if there are any issues.
 
I don't have this kit, but if there's enough room between the top of the protruding tabs and the bottom of the nose cone to fit the recovery laundry, you can glue a centering ring to act as a shelf, like the TLP kits used to have.
The wadding will prevent the laundry from falling through the hole. Everything stays above the tabs.
You can easily make one with a fiber or cardboard sheet and a circle cutter or compass. Cut or punch a center hole or several smaller holes (like a baffle ring) to let the ejection gasses pass through. I would also smooth a layer of wood glue over the paper ring to give it some heat resistance before gluing it in.
An added benefit is that it keeps the weight of the laundry forward, and consequently keeps the CG forward as well.
Maybe...

1613090646706.png
 
I just finished my SLS, and what I did was use epoxy clay to attach a new elastic shock cord right behind one of the tabs, and smoothed it out over the tab a little.
Then I used a file to sand down the other one flush with the tube. I fished the rubber cord out through the motor mount and cut it off. Haven't tested it yet, but will post if there are any issues.
I’m anxious to hear how this works for you. I can’t wait to cut out the existing rubber cord, but haven’t figured out how to mount Kevlar down near the base somewhere yet. All ideas presented here are better than what comes with the kit..........
 
I addition to the wadding below the parachute,
I add a smaller square underneath wrapped around the low end of the packed chute.
The square is smaller (not over the top) so it peels away when ejected.

I rarely use the Estes style wadding and prefer flameproof crepe paper cut into 4" squares from larger rolls.

View attachment 450220
I like that parachute pouch. I need to start doing something like that. Thanks!!!
 
Ok, here was my solution to the shock cord issue:
1. Pull back plastic fuel line on side of the body.
2. Make 2 small holes to run Kevlar through.
3. Run 2 ends out to the front of the body and tie a loop in one end.
4. Run a liberal amount of glue at the holes and pull the cord taught.
5. Make a mark where you want to make your loop for the elastic braid
6. Run the line out the bottom to make a loop for the braided elastic.
7. Run it back through to the top an d all done. Don’t forget to cut out the old elastic when you’re done. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here you go!

2FD8B784-BB0D-4F0E-A75D-6D46DEF15AF6.jpeg23A80227-C8EA-4AFB-B8A9-2EC11A18B8F5.jpegCD10DCD8-DDB6-4B50-BCD3-4AD7773EC7A4.jpeg9F58A3DD-DD59-48CC-BBED-86A8E4ED79FE.jpeg238BB35F-DA11-4D0E-AA0D-F724D1DCC720.jpeg47D3FA36-796D-4C58-9176-97BA7E5D0C59.jpegAB1EB90C-AC8C-47F7-A910-0E1B0C8F4C47.jpeg081B9517-EE55-4A08-90D2-9AB5CBD49FC1.jpeg6BBC713E-56CB-4E95-8ADF-4E2CB26E6AD9.jpeg78948498-6811-4AE9-B2B7-6A510417C002.jpeg
 
I used my Dremel with a 1/4” drum sander bit. It went through it pretty quickly. I also drilled 4 1/16” holes just above where the altimeters will sit in each of the black/white checker board stickers. I sure hope that strengthening up the shock cord system and making more room for the chute by getting the altimeters up in the cone, that I’ll get better deployments. Lately my descents look more like Elon’s Starship belly flop descents than a regular Apollo descent under a chute! But I digress.........
 
I noticed those anchors also and am considering covering them with some of the Apogee Fix-It epoxy clay (or similar) and smoothing it out over them. Also will use that when I replace the shock cord.

I think I will use some the the silver metal foil ducting tape. the one that actual metal not regular duct tape. Its super sticky and a small piece will cover the protrusion nicely.
 
Just noticed the anchors sticking out in my SLS. I wonder if laying a smooth piece of tape over each would work. You would still have a small bulge but at least it would be smooth when the chute goes across them. What do you think?

Use he silver metalized duck tape NOT regular duct tape. Its made if actual metal and super sticky . Heat resistant and fire proof. Its what Im going to use.
 
Ideas?????
If anyone saw my latest launch video with the SLS chute not deploying, I’m perplexed about the SRB mounts. It appears that due to the SRB mounts being rather bulky and sticking out into the tube, the chute got hung up on them. I’m leery about launching again until I figure out a way to reduce the chance of a hang up. Any ideas???
 
Ideas?????
If anyone saw my latest launch video with the SLS chute not deploying, I’m perplexed about the SRB mounts. It appears that due to the SRB mounts being rather bulky and sticking out into the tube, the chute got hung up on them. I’m leery about launching again until I figure out a way to reduce the chance of a hang up. Any ideas???

You have a link to your video?
 
Before they had introduced a model of this I designed my own and built it. Flew 2 times, the second launch exploded in a cool destructive show of fire and smoke as a result of a "E" motor failure CATO.
 

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Before they had introduced a model of this I designed my own and built it. Flew 2 times, the second launch exploded in a cool destructive show of fire and smoke as a result of a "E" motor failure CATO.
You gotta fix it! :)
 
Before they had introduced a model of this I designed my own and built it. Flew 2 times, the second launch exploded in a cool destructive show of fire and smoke as a result of a "E" motor failure CATO.
That is a great build, and you agree with @cbwho that you should attempt to fix it :) A scratch SLS is on my to-do list. Might even be my first 2-stage rocket.
 
How is the SLS holding up after a number of flights? Just wondering if it shows any wear and tear. Its such a nice looking rocket.
 
Agree! I found even a c-6 to
Be underpower on the Sat V and went to a qjet c-11
A c6-5 should be good in the SLS

A C6-5 is too long a delay. Think you meant C5-3 Super C but a C6-3 fly's the SLS just fine as it weighs less than the Saturn V. The Saturn V fly's nicely with the C5-3 Super C or good with the C6-3 but DONT use a delay any longer than a 3 in either.
 
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