EggTimer Quasar not working....

[darrenf]

Hey All, just finished my 4th EggTimer build, the mighty Quasar. Only problem is it isn't working. I have gone over all the solder connections 3 times now with a loupe and I don't see any bridges or bad joints. It powers up but there are no beeps. I can connect to it via wifi and it assigns my device an IP of 192.168.4.2 and I can ping it, but I can't pull up the web page, it just times out. I also took it outside and I do not get any orange LED indicating GPS data. The Wifi led blinks blue once upon power up, and the radio module blinks green once, red 3 times with a pause and then one more red flash. As mentioned there are none of the normal EggTimer beeps upon powerup. It's really got me perplexed.

 

[tfish]

is that a bridge 3rd photo right at the top middle?

Tony

 

[darrenf]

is that a bridge 3rd photo right at the top middle?

Tony

It is, but that piece is supposed to be bridged.

 

[waltr]

It is hard from a photo but there are a number of solder connections that look bad or iffy....
1st photo- pins 2 & 4 of the EEPROM, lower pins of the ESP module.
4th photo, pin 4 of the chip in the upper right.
5th photo, bottom pin of the chip on lower right
6th photo bottom thru-hole pin at lower right. no solder on the pad.

Hope you find the problem.

 

[Kallahan11]

If you can connect to it over wifi and ping it it's up and running. When I try to access it on my phone I have to turn off my wireless data (not Wifi), otherwise my phone reaches out over the phone network for https traffic.

 

[darrenf]

If you can connect to it over wifi and ping it it's up and running. When I try to access it on my phone I have to turn off my wireless data (not Wifi), otherwise my phone reaches out over the phone network for https traffic.

I have a Quantum and connect with no issues there. It’s not the connecting device that’s at fault. Has to be something I did during assembly. Going to try to build another one tomorrow.

 

[darrenf]

It is hard from a photo but there are a number of solder connections that look bad or iffy....
1st photo- pins 2 & 4 of the EEPROM, lower pins of the ESP module.
4th photo, pin 4 of the chip in the upper right.
5th photo, bottom pin of the chip on lower right
6th photo bottom thru-hole pin at lower right. no solder on the pad.

Hope you find the problem.

They do look really bad in the photos with all that graininess, but I have gone over it 5 times with a loupe since I posted and I haven’t been able to see any troublesome ( in my eyes) solders. I have redone a few spots (including a few you mentioned) but nothing has helped yet.

 

[Grog6]

Go over every solder joint with fresh solder, hit the connection 1 second, then touch solder to joint. let it cool so you can touch it before you try again.Kester 44 solder is what I've used for 30 years; unless you have a toddler that might tooth on it, there's no need to use lead free solder. it sucks.

 

[Voyager1]

They do look really bad in the photos with all that graininess, but I have gone over it 5 times with a loupe since I posted and I haven’t been able to see any troublesome ( in my eyes) solders. I have redone a few spots (including a few you mentioned) but nothing has helped yet.

It might be the quality of the images, but I do see many solder joints that don’t appear to have flowed properly. Each joint should be smooth and shiny, not lumpy and dull. What iron temperature are you using? It does appear that your temperature might have been too low, or iron tip not in contact for long enough.

The fact that you can connect via the wifi, albeit temporarily, does not confirm proper operation of the rest of the board, obviously. I would be reflowing as many of the solder joints as possible around the ICs, resistors and capacitors. If your processor can’t talk to the other devices on the board, then the firmware could possibly hang up.

 

[darrenf]

It might be the quality of the images, but I do see many solder joints that don’t appear to have flowed properly. Each joint should be smooth and shiny, not lumpy and dull. What iron temperature are you using? It does appear that your temperature might have been too low, or iron tip not in contact for long enough.

The fact that you can connect via the wifi, albeit temporarily, does not confirm proper operation of the rest of the board, obviously. I would be reflowing as many of the solder joints as possible around the ICs, resistors and capacitors. If your processor can’t talk to the other devices on the board, then the firmware could possibly hang up.

Reflowed everything I could this morning at 680F. Still no change. Beginning to think this board is a write off. And unfortunately, I can't build the 2nd one I have because both kits were short 1 10 uF capacitor so I had to rob one from the 2nd kit to build the first and now only have 1 left when I need 3. Does anyone know what the specs are on the 10uF cap? Is it 50V. 25V, or something else. If I knew that I could order replacements to have by Tuesday.

 

[cerving]

Connect the data cable per the instructions for recovering the passkey, and see what you get out of Putty. It will tell you where it's hanging up... pretty good chance it's the memory, that's the most common reason. You say that your iron is at 680F, based on your solder joints I would turn it up a little bit... I don't think you're getting a good flow-out on the solder. It typically takes 3-5 seconds of pre-heating for the joints to get hot enough to melt the solder properly.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Reflowed everything I could this morning at 680F. Still no change. Beginning to think this board is a write off. And unfortunately, I can't build the 2nd one I have because both kits were short 1 10 uF capacitor so I had to rob one from the 2nd kit to build the first and now only have 1 left when I need 3. Does anyone know what the specs are on the 10uF cap? Is it 50V. 25V, or something else. If I knew that I could order replacements to have by Tuesday.

Why wouldn’t you just contact Cris and ask him to send ones to make up for the shortages?

 

[darrenf]

Why wouldn’t you just contact Cris and ask him to send ones to make up for the shortages?

I did, but I would like them quickly. It's a holiday weekend, and I don't need to push someone for that.

 

[darrenf]

Connect the data cable per the instructions for recovering the passkey, and see what you get out of Putty. It will tell you where it's hanging up... pretty good chance it's the memory, that's the most common reason. You say that your iron is at 680F, based on your solder joints I would turn it up a little bit... I don't think you're getting a good flow-out on the solder. It typically takes 3-5 seconds of pre-heating for the joints to get hot enough to melt the solder properly.

I have never received a data cable Cris. What temperature would be too hot? Can you give me a specific temp?

 

[cerving]

680F is a good starting point, but depending on the iron and the tip you may need to go up or down about 20F.

 

[Grog6]

I can see a solder bridge, and a pin that's not soldered at all. That's why I said hit every joint again. The crappy looking solder is because it's lead free solder. Good Luck, You're going to need it, looks like.

 

[darrenf]

I can see a solder bridge, and a pin that's not soldered at all. That's why I said hit every joint again. The crappy looking solder is because it's lead free solder. Good Luck, You're going to need it, looks like.

I hit every joint I could still reach, and there are no bridges that should not be bridged that I can see. I will try to get some better pictures, as the quality of the shots I posted make things look worse than they look through the loupe. I also looked from all angles, not just top down, and after looking at it multiple times I haven't been able to find any connections that aren't complete. It's frustrating for you and I , because you for sure see bad connections, and I don't when looking more closely. So, like I said, I'll try to get some better pics up today.

That said, this project was definitely not my best soldering job, so please no one reading this jump to any conclusions that I think there is a problem with Cris' product. I have loved everything I have purchased from him. These little setbacks are part of the hobby. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it.

 

[darrenf]

680F is a good starting point, but depending on the iron and the tip you may need to go up or down about 20F.

Can you see about getting me a data cable, or provide a link to something on Amazon I can use instead?

 

[Charles_McG]

I just flashed a Proton from Win11 with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLRP6YV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[darrenf]

Well, Not sure this is the only problem, but I definitely found A problem. Resoldering the right side of the resistor, as soon as the right side melted the resistor moved. That's not good. I get the tweezers and remelted the right side and the resistor lifted right up, exposing that the pad on the left side was gone. Any idea how to fix that?

 

[darrenf]

I just flashed a Proton from Win11 with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JLRP6YV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thank you, I ordered it.

 

[darrenf]

So, I just found this guide on fixing a solder pad. Unfortunately this seems way above my abilities at this time.

https://www.pcb-repair.com/resource...nd conductor,epoxy mixture and properly cure.

 

[AnalogtoDigital]

Well, Not sure this is the only problem, but I definitely found A problem. Resoldering the right side of the resistor, as soon as the right side melted the resistor moved. That's not good. I get the tweezers and remelted the right side and the resistor lifted right up, exposing that the pad on the left side was gone. Any idea how to fix that?

You will need some copper wire and pcb mask to repair it properly if you can expose the remaining trace.

 

[darrenf]

You will need some copper wire and solder mask to repair it properly if you can expose the remaining trace.

Yeah, I think I'm going to have to write this one off. So, does anyone know the 10uF capacitors I can buy so that I can build my second one?

 

[darrenf]

Here are some better pics for anyone still interested. Any helpful tips I will definitely take.

 

[cerving]

I'll send you a cable along with the capacitors. The kit should have come with four of the 10 uF caps (three + a spare)... apparently some went out with only two.

 

[darrenf]

And the rest of the pics.

 

[darrenf]

I'll send you a cable along with the capacitors. The kit should have come with four of the 10 uF caps (three + a spare)... apparently some went out with only two.

Thank you. Any idea when I'll get them, as I was hoping to fly with it next weekend.

 

[waltr]

Well, Not sure this is the only problem, but I definitely found A problem. Resoldering the right side of the resistor, as soon as the right side melted the resistor moved. That's not good. I get the tweezers and remelted the right side and the resistor lifted right up, exposing that the pad on the left side was gone. Any idea how to fix that?

Since there is a thru-hole pad right there this is an easy fix. solder a thin wire (28 -32 ga) into the hole, place the resistor and solder to the good pad. Let cool then solder the wire to the resistor.

That resistor looks to be the LED current limit so should not cause your main problem.

Did Cris supply solder with the kit? Did you use that solder?
The solder he has supplied is excellent and creates very clean solid joints.

 

[Grog6]

The pic marked 7 still has an end pin that is not soldered to the pcb. Lead free solder is difficult for experts. Buy a roll of kester 44 60/40 tin lead. It will be a lot easier for you. The grainy blobby solder is what tin looks like when it's full of oxides. Get a bottle of flux.