So it that time to do my evaluation on this kit. I know I still need to paint and yes I will post pictures of the finished model, but since I had time and the model is basically done I figure I would write my review.
As rocket builders whether we are the ones who build scaled models or scratch build creations we always tens to want to "OVERBUILD" to make it better or stronger. That's pretty common for all of us, but on this kit that is the last thing you want to do. You are best rewarded if you just follow the instructions to the letter. They are so well written, that it makes this kit a breeze to build. A lot of my work I do is pretty decent, but on this kit I ignored a lot of the details and tried some of thing that most of us would do on other kits, just so I can see the results and pitfalls, so you don't have to make them.
As I mentioned the instructions are outstanding and well written. Anyone with decent modeling skills should have no problem building this kit. Let's do the PROS and CONS.
PROS -
Well written and documented instructions.
Wing jig - It makes it nice to have this and assures you get the wings at the right angle.
Kevlar shock cord - Kit comes with a nice shock cord and its one piece, not something you have to tie to elastic or other materials.
Generous size parachute - Even though it's plastic its colorful and probably a bit too large (32") for this kit. I think something more along the size of a 24" chute would work well.
Templates - The kit comes with templates of the wing pieces and vertical and horizontal stabilizers, in case you decide to scratch build one later, although if you bought all the parts at Apogee it would probably be less just to buy the kit.
Price - I bought mine from BRS Hobbies for $41.95, which I think is a fair price for this kit. I know Apogee sells it for a few dollars, but they also want $11 plus to ship it, whereas Brian @ BRS Hobbies charges about $6. When I started building this kit I knew that it was a trial run, so I ordered another one from Brian. Great prices and great service.
https://www.brshobbies.com/store.php/BRSHobbies/ct198233/dynastar
CONS -
The first thing I noticed right off is the tubes used in the kit are very thin and flimsy. Not that this is bad, you just have to be aware of this when building it. After all the kit was designed to fly on D, E and F motors and of course composite. Juts be careful when you handle the tubes. Initially I was going to fit mine with an AP retainer, but knowing this was the first go around I decide to wait until I build it again and settle with friction or wrap tape method.
The nose cone doesn't fit as snug as you would expect. No big deal just wrap it with tape until you get the fit you like.
Balsa quality - I think the quality of the balsa could have been better and the laser cutting was below par. A lot of the pieces required more work than needed to remove from the sheets, but maybe I just happen to get some bad pieces. The little triangle pieces that fit on the main wings I had to actually re-cut and shape because of the poor laser cutting and were not completely cut through.
Assembly Tips - As I mentioned before read and follow the instructions! When you reach the step to mount the wings you are given a tube wrap to mark the lines for the wings, scoop and horizontal stabilizers. Take note that the wing line and the scoop line are very close to each other and obviously parallel. The instructions state when gluing the intake scoop to the fuselage to run a bead of glue and then to make a fillet with your finger, which in most cases how all of us do, when making glue fillets. Well what happens is if you do that, the fillet will easily flow onto the wing line. If you aren't aware of this and it dries you contact surface for the wings will be a dried fillet and the surface will not mate flush with the root edge of the wing(s) What I would do is take the time to measure the root edge of the wing(s) and mark them according on the wing glue line. When you make your fillet for the intake scoop tape off a small gully so the glue doesn't over flow. I would use a low tack tape so when you peel it off it doesn't destroy the body tube.
Glue Fillets inside intake scoop - Don't do it. I figured I could simply put some glue on one side inside the scoop area and just tilt it back and have it flow down to the other end. Well no dice, but maybe if was diluted. Anyway its not worth the hassle.
The kit comes with a vertical support stabilizer, which fits between the intake scoop and the fuselage. Of course like everyone else I stack and block sand my balsa on a flat surface with sand paper taped to it. If you do decide to sand the support stabilizer, remember that it will not fit as snug or fit at all (in my case) between the fuselage and intake scoop. As I mentioned before the kit does come with templates. You can always cut another one, but larger (say an 1/8" on all sides) if you have extra balsa laying around and sand to fit or you can do what I did and just cut a small piece if the scrape balsa and glue to the piece and sand to fit. That works well too.
Balsa - We all have our methods of finishing balsa, but I'm old school and hate sanding and sanding dust. I applied two coats of Aero gloss Sanding Sealer and waited before between coats before sanding. I applied thin even coats and would block sand the pieces smooth with 220, which only took maybe a few passes. When I was done I applied one coat of Aero gloss Balsa Filler Primer and again waited until dried and sanded with 220 and followed the final sanding with 320. The stuff works great and if I would have used a 3rd or even a 4th coat I'm sure I would have had much better results.
Jigs - As I mentioned before the kit comes with jigs to mount the wings. If you happen to have some extra card stock laying around I would make a 3rd jog identical to the ones that came with the kit. When you draw your lines on the fuselage for the horizontal and vertical stabilizers I would mark these on the jig and cut slots to help align them. I found once you get the wings on, it can be a PITA aligning and gluing down the stabilizers. Having a jog or even a 90 that fits over the body tube will come in handy on this step.
SHROX did a great job designing this kit as well as the other Dynastar kits. This Snarky screams 4" so yes I'm considering it. Just need to put some numbers together and see what I come up with as far as cost etc.
If I was to rate this kit on a scale of 5 I would give it solid 4. It could use some improvement, but there are also plenty of things to do to work around any issues you might come across.
As far as my build skills building this kit. I know I can do so much better I'd give myself a 6.5 on a 10 scale.
Hope this helps any of you interested in building this model kit.