rcktnut
Well-Known Member
Yes they are!! Get rid of any burrs you might have after drilling. They'll bite you otherwise.The cut edges will be razor sharp. Wear leather gloves.
Yes they are!! Get rid of any burrs you might have after drilling. They'll bite you otherwise.The cut edges will be razor sharp. Wear leather gloves.
Put the blast deflector ON TOP of the adeptor. Not only does it fit, but it keeps the adeptor from deteriorating from the blast and corrosive BP residue.It doesn’t grab the threads in the adeptor if I put a blast deflector on top of the tripod.
Notice that I just “liked” this post and did not also reply to it and say, “Oh my God, I am so dumb”. Oops. ;-)Put the blast deflector ON TOP of the adeptor. Not only does it fit, but it keeps the adeptor from deteriorating from the blast and corrosive BP residue.
Hans.
Been there, done that. Hate wearing the T-shirt...Notice that I just “liked” this post and did not also reply to it and say, “Oh my God, I am so dumb”. Oops. ;-)
Well, if you want to see REALLY stupid tripod errors, look at this photo. I didn't realize that the tripod legs could be spread out wider. So I launched a fairly large rocket on an F52 with the tripod base too narrow. The rocket flew fine, but the blast from that F52 knocked the tripod over. This was on video, the tripod didn't even start tipping until the rocket was some 5 feet above the rod.Notice that I just “liked” this post and did not also reply to it and say, “Oh my God, I am so dumb”. Oops. ;-)
Well, if you want to see REALLY stupid tripod errors, look at this photo. I didn't realize that the tripod legs could be spread out wider. So I launched a fairly large rocket on an F52 with the tripod base too narrow. The rocket flew fine, but the blast from that F52 knocked the tripod over. This was on video, the tripod didn't even start tipping until the rocket was some 5 feet above the rod.
Hans,
View attachment 601063
Can't remember why I did that..... ????Double blast deflector on that pad! Nice!
I put a clothes pin on the rod to hold the rocket up and off of the blast deflector. That only works with light to medium weight rockets. Maybe your second, smaller blast deflector was something expendable like that?Can't remember why I did that..... ????
Looks like another vote for my pad design!I put a clothes pin on the rod to hold the rocket up and off of the blast deflector. That only works with light to medium weight rockets. Maybe your second, smaller blast deflector was something expendable like that?
I also don’t like putting the rocket all the way down the rod onto the blast deflector as I fear the deflected flame will scorch the bottom of the rocket and the fins
I have this tank of a launch pad that my son built 30 years ago from 3/4" plywood and 2x4's. You can literally jump up and down on it. The deflector is at a 45° angle and is 3/4" ply backing up a (currently) 1/16" sheet of steel:View attachment 600927
The rockets can stand on it (no rod bending) and you don't short your clips on the blast plate. If the motor ejects its nozzle - and yes, that has happened - it's directed away from the spectators, or parallel to the "watch from behind here" line. Various top plates accommodate different sized rockets. There are levelers at each corner. Makes a pretty launch, if I may say so myself
View attachment 600928
The top plates are just a good 1/4" plywood, hole to suit.What do you make the top plates out of?
What holds the rod in an upright position?
You must divulge your secrets! ;-)
Those super cheap sets are usually dubious in the hss used and if you look at the sharpening angles on the tips they are all over the place. They are titanium coated hss drills by the very minimum of not being sued......
I've bought some of these supposed high end drill bits. They are not industrial quality, but for a hobbyist, they are OK. Expect better than average, be pleased if they are better than that.
If you're drilling a hole in wood they'll be fine. But I wouldn't expect great results in stainless. And you should be able to make a hole in wood with a rusty nail in your drill chuck. Usually.....I've bought some of these supposed high end drill bits. They are not industrial quality, but for a hobbyist, they are OK. Expect better than average, be pleased if they are better than that.
Hans.
Don't know about that. I bought a pair of 1/8" el cheapo cobalt bits and drilled nearly 1000 holes through 1/8" mild steel to attached some body panels on a kit car. They work fine.If you're drilling a hole in wood they'll be fine. But I wouldn't expect great results in stainless. And you should be able to make a hole in wood with a rusty nail in your drill chuck. Usually.....
I am waiting for my el cheapo cobalt bits to arrive on Tuesday.Don't know about that. I bought a pair of 1/8" el cheapo cobalt bits and drilled nearly 1000 holes through 1/8" mild steel to attached some body panels on a kit car. They work fine.
Hans.
To be nitpicky, that's smokeless (NC +/-NG) not blackpowder, and a .22LR takes (maximally) 2 grains, not grams. Typical loads top out around 1.5 grains, or around 0.1 grams, not 2 grams.A .22 long rifle round contains about 2 grams of gunpowder. And .22's kill more Americans than any other firearm. Repeated experience with black powder motors and APCP motors leads to our feeling comfortable around them. But I try to not fall into the trap of complacency. Our rocket motors contain a LOT of energy, and I try hard to not forget that when I'm wrangling them.
Bob
I am waiting for my el cheapo cobalt bits to arrive on Tuesday.
COMOWARE Cobalt Drill Bit Set- 13Pcs M35 High Speed Steel, Twist Jobber Length for Metal, Cast Iron and Wood Plastic with Metal Indexed Storage Case, 1/16"-1/4" https://a.co/d/2wds8J7
I find, however, that one can simply punch a hole in the bottom of the bowl with a nail and a hammer.
I need to remember KISS: Keep it simple, stupid
I overthink everything.
I just hammered a hole into the bowl and can using a hammer and a couple of pointy wood screws of the correct diameter. . But I now have a set of fancy cobalt drill bits to show off. .Ok, cool, but drilling is boring.
Cobalt drill bits are good but brittle. They are best used in a drill press where the load put on them is vertical. In hand drills, it's difficult to not put a side load due to the handle being off center. This usually causes them to break more frequently in hand held drills.Unboxing the cobalt drill bits.
Nicely packed in metal case. Not bad for $11.99.
Is there any way to tell if they are really cobalt drill bits?
View attachment 602538
View attachment 602539
View attachment 602540
View attachment 602541
My tripod's legs are able to spread out horizontally, making a very stable platform. Handles G64 well.Like this?
View attachment 603145
View attachment 603146
View attachment 603147
Seems wobbly. I think it is just a cheap tripod.
There we go. Big blast deflector.
View attachment 603155
I need a better tripod.My tripod's legs are able to spread out horizontally, making a very stable platform. Handles G64 well.
Hans.
Are all of the adjustment points for the head tight?I need a better tripod.
Don’t feel too bad. SpaceX had a similar problem.
Enter your email address to join: