D12 Blast Destroyed My Flower Pot Blast Deflector

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Put the blast deflector ON TOP of the adeptor. Not only does it fit, but it keeps the adeptor from deteriorating from the blast and corrosive BP residue.

Hans.
Notice that I just “liked” this post and did not also reply to it and say, “Oh my God, I am so dumb”. Oops. ;-)
 
Notice that I just “liked” this post and did not also reply to it and say, “Oh my God, I am so dumb”. Oops. ;-)
Well, if you want to see REALLY stupid tripod errors, look at this photo. I didn't realize that the tripod legs could be spread out wider. So I launched a fairly large rocket on an F52 with the tripod base too narrow. The rocket flew fine, but the blast from that F52 knocked the tripod over. This was on video, the tripod didn't even start tipping until the rocket was some 5 feet above the rod.

Hans,
Leviathan knocked pad over.png
 
Well, if you want to see REALLY stupid tripod errors, look at this photo. I didn't realize that the tripod legs could be spread out wider. So I launched a fairly large rocket on an F52 with the tripod base too narrow. The rocket flew fine, but the blast from that F52 knocked the tripod over. This was on video, the tripod didn't even start tipping until the rocket was some 5 feet above the rod.

Hans,
View attachment 601063

Double blast deflector on that pad! Nice!
 
Can't remember why I did that..... ????
I put a clothes pin on the rod to hold the rocket up and off of the blast deflector. That only works with light to medium weight rockets. Maybe your second, smaller blast deflector was something expendable like that?

I also don’t like putting the rocket all the way down the rod onto the blast deflector as I fear the deflected flame will scorch the bottom of the rocket and the fins
 
I put a clothes pin on the rod to hold the rocket up and off of the blast deflector. That only works with light to medium weight rockets. Maybe your second, smaller blast deflector was something expendable like that?

I also don’t like putting the rocket all the way down the rod onto the blast deflector as I fear the deflected flame will scorch the bottom of the rocket and the fins
Looks like another vote for my pad design! duck.gif
 
I have this tank of a launch pad that my son built 30 years ago from 3/4" plywood and 2x4's. You can literally jump up and down on it. The deflector is at a 45° angle and is 3/4" ply backing up a (currently) 1/16" sheet of steel:View attachment 600927

The rockets can stand on it (no rod bending) and you don't short your clips on the blast plate. If the motor ejects its nozzle - and yes, that has happened - it's directed away from the spectators, or parallel to the "watch from behind here" line. Various top plates accommodate different sized rockets. There are levelers at each corner. Makes a pretty launch, if I may say so myself


View attachment 600928

What do you make the top plates out of?

What holds the rod in an upright position?

You must divulge your secrets! ;-)
 
What do you make the top plates out of?

What holds the rod in an upright position?

You must divulge your secrets! ;-)
The top plates are just a good 1/4" plywood, hole to suit.
For the rod, I put the thing on my drill press and used a Forstner bit to make a flat bottom hole about an inch down the 45° ramp. 20230830_203035.jpgThe bit leaves a center mark and you use that to drill through to suit a "metal threads in wood" T nut. Pound that in, thread the end of your rod and thread a nut on to it. Thread the rod into the "T" nut and tighten the jam nut to hold everything nice and tight.
20230830_203601.jpg
For a 1/8 rod, I think they are 10-24 threads and nuts. And that reminds me: I need to steel wool and wax that rod, that's nasty looking!

It's more trouble to build, to be sure, but it has a long history in the family and we like it.
 
Last edited:
This looks too good to be true. $12.49 for 72 titanium coated drill bits?

View attachment 601669
Those super cheap sets are usually dubious in the hss used and if you look at the sharpening angles on the tips they are all over the place. They are titanium coated hss drills by the very minimum of not being sued......
Of course you might have found a good set.... :)

I'm still using most of the same drill bits I got in a Dormer jobber drill set in 1985..... ( a jobber drill bit is slightly shorter and less likely to break). Sign up to the engineering suppliers catalog and wait till a reasonable set is on special.
 
Last edited:
I've bought some of these supposed high end drill bits. They are not industrial quality, but for a hobbyist, they are OK. Expect better than average, be pleased if they are better than that.

Hans.
If you're drilling a hole in wood they'll be fine. But I wouldn't expect great results in stainless. And you should be able to make a hole in wood with a rusty nail in your drill chuck. Usually.....
 
If you're drilling a hole in wood they'll be fine. But I wouldn't expect great results in stainless. And you should be able to make a hole in wood with a rusty nail in your drill chuck. Usually.....
Don't know about that. I bought a pair of 1/8" el cheapo cobalt bits and drilled nearly 1000 holes through 1/8" mild steel to attached some body panels on a kit car. They work fine.

Hans.
 
Don't know about that. I bought a pair of 1/8" el cheapo cobalt bits and drilled nearly 1000 holes through 1/8" mild steel to attached some body panels on a kit car. They work fine.

Hans.
I am waiting for my el cheapo cobalt bits to arrive on Tuesday.

COMOWARE Cobalt Drill Bit Set- 13Pcs M35 High Speed Steel, Twist Jobber Length for Metal, Cast Iron and Wood Plastic with Metal Indexed Storage Case, 1/16"-1/4" https://a.co/d/2wds8J7

I find, however, that one can simply punch a hole in the bottom of the bowl with a nail and a hammer.

I need to remember KISS: Keep it simple, stupid

:)

I overthink everything.
 
A .22 long rifle round contains about 2 grams of gunpowder. And .22's kill more Americans than any other firearm. Repeated experience with black powder motors and APCP motors leads to our feeling comfortable around them. But I try to not fall into the trap of complacency. Our rocket motors contain a LOT of energy, and I try hard to not forget that when I'm wrangling them.
Bob
To be nitpicky, that's smokeless (NC +/-NG) not blackpowder, and a .22LR takes (maximally) 2 grains, not grams. Typical loads top out around 1.5 grains, or around 0.1 grams, not 2 grams.

That said, a 30 grain (2 gram) BP load in a musket is considered pretty light. And a D12 contains >24g BP and that's not trivial--your point stands.
 
I am waiting for my el cheapo cobalt bits to arrive on Tuesday.

COMOWARE Cobalt Drill Bit Set- 13Pcs M35 High Speed Steel, Twist Jobber Length for Metal, Cast Iron and Wood Plastic with Metal Indexed Storage Case, 1/16"-1/4" https://a.co/d/2wds8J7

I find, however, that one can simply punch a hole in the bottom of the bowl with a nail and a hammer.

I need to remember KISS: Keep it simple, stupid

:)

I overthink everything.

Unboxing the cobalt drill bits.

Nicely packed in metal case. Not bad for $11.99.

Is there any way to tell if they are really cobalt drill bits?

IMG_7844.jpeg


IMG_7845.jpeg

IMG_7846.jpeg

IMG_7847.jpeg
 
Unboxing the cobalt drill bits.

Nicely packed in metal case. Not bad for $11.99.

Is there any way to tell if they are really cobalt drill bits?

View attachment 602538


View attachment 602539

View attachment 602540

View attachment 602541
Cobalt drill bits are good but brittle. They are best used in a drill press where the load put on them is vertical. In hand drills, it's difficult to not put a side load due to the handle being off center. This usually causes them to break more frequently in hand held drills.
They look to be reasonably ground.
 
I need a better tripod.
Are all of the adjustment points for the head tight?
Did you separate the legs once they were extended?

I see that the tripod has a spreader bar at the end of the first section, Try only extending the upper leg, and not the upper and lower leg sections, that will make it more stable as well.

Goose
 

Latest posts

Back
Top