I'm building a Fliskits Corona (and Corona-2, but haven't started the booster yet), and have a couple of questions...
The first, simple question:
The instructions say to leave the outside of the ring fin unpainted if it will be used with the booster... But can some painting be gotten away with? It'd be nice to fill the fairly deep spiral groove in the ring, but that would look really ugly without painting.
The second question is more complicated:
How well aligned do the upper and lower body tube sections need to be for straight flight? After a construction "oops", I found <a href="https://rocketryforum.com/printpost.php?s=&threadid=6922&postid=105281">this post</a> (toward the end of <a href="https://rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?threadid=6922"> this thread</a>) which emphasizes how important it is that the tubes be aligned for stability. When I check the alignment, the top tube is *just a little* out of alignment -- with lower tube section flat on a tabletop, I can rotate the rocket so the top end of the upper tube lifts about 1/4" above the tabletop -- this comes to a bit less than a 1 degree misalignment of the top with the bottom tube.
So, do the experts here think that this much misalignment is negligible, and I should go ahead and finish and fly it, or is this clearly so crooked that I should cut out the central coupler and start over? I could also do a test flight before finishing -- I think that the ring fin fits snugly enough over the radial fins that I could probably fly it without gluing it, allowing removal for finishing.
If anyone is interested, here is my "oops":
The instructions call for the Kevlar shock line to be knotted and then threaded outside the body tube coupler, but inside the body tube. When the upper section of the body tube is glued to the coupler, the Kevlar must be threaded through the tube *immediately* so that the Kevlar can be pulled tight and the tubes can be slid together.
I did a quick threading test before I glued, but when the time came to glue them together, the line picked up just enough glue from the inside of the body tube that it wouldn't slide up the tube with a push from the end. I scurried to find a heavy object to tie to the line to guide it through (as the glue was setting, tick, tick, tick...), found one (tick, tick...), guided the line through (tick, tick...) and shoved the tubes together. Alas, the glue had set up just enough that the tubes did not *quite* go all the way together. I also managed to very slightly "wrinkle" the upper body tube seams from the force I had to apply to slide the tube through the rapidly setting glue.
Due to the wrinkles, I couldn't tell how straight the tube was, despite my rolling it over the floor, but considering that there way *no way* I could have separated the tubes for another try, I decided just to move on, and fill and sand the gap (<1mm) and wrinkles...
If I were to do it again, I would modify my technique... Simple mod: thread first, then apply glue! However, I'd prefer some way of attaching the shock line that doesn't require it to deform the body tube or coupler -- the best one I've been able to think up would involve adding a single centering ring with a notch through which the Kevlar could be threaded...
The first, simple question:
The instructions say to leave the outside of the ring fin unpainted if it will be used with the booster... But can some painting be gotten away with? It'd be nice to fill the fairly deep spiral groove in the ring, but that would look really ugly without painting.
The second question is more complicated:
How well aligned do the upper and lower body tube sections need to be for straight flight? After a construction "oops", I found <a href="https://rocketryforum.com/printpost.php?s=&threadid=6922&postid=105281">this post</a> (toward the end of <a href="https://rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?threadid=6922"> this thread</a>) which emphasizes how important it is that the tubes be aligned for stability. When I check the alignment, the top tube is *just a little* out of alignment -- with lower tube section flat on a tabletop, I can rotate the rocket so the top end of the upper tube lifts about 1/4" above the tabletop -- this comes to a bit less than a 1 degree misalignment of the top with the bottom tube.
So, do the experts here think that this much misalignment is negligible, and I should go ahead and finish and fly it, or is this clearly so crooked that I should cut out the central coupler and start over? I could also do a test flight before finishing -- I think that the ring fin fits snugly enough over the radial fins that I could probably fly it without gluing it, allowing removal for finishing.
If anyone is interested, here is my "oops":
The instructions call for the Kevlar shock line to be knotted and then threaded outside the body tube coupler, but inside the body tube. When the upper section of the body tube is glued to the coupler, the Kevlar must be threaded through the tube *immediately* so that the Kevlar can be pulled tight and the tubes can be slid together.
I did a quick threading test before I glued, but when the time came to glue them together, the line picked up just enough glue from the inside of the body tube that it wouldn't slide up the tube with a push from the end. I scurried to find a heavy object to tie to the line to guide it through (as the glue was setting, tick, tick, tick...), found one (tick, tick...), guided the line through (tick, tick...) and shoved the tubes together. Alas, the glue had set up just enough that the tubes did not *quite* go all the way together. I also managed to very slightly "wrinkle" the upper body tube seams from the force I had to apply to slide the tube through the rapidly setting glue.
Due to the wrinkles, I couldn't tell how straight the tube was, despite my rolling it over the floor, but considering that there way *no way* I could have separated the tubes for another try, I decided just to move on, and fill and sand the gap (<1mm) and wrinkles...
If I were to do it again, I would modify my technique... Simple mod: thread first, then apply glue! However, I'd prefer some way of attaching the shock line that doesn't require it to deform the body tube or coupler -- the best one I've been able to think up would involve adding a single centering ring with a notch through which the Kevlar could be threaded...