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zeke1312

zeke1312

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OK, I haven't assembled a kit for many years. Last one I did was a 36" Nike which I launched 3 or 4 times and still have. Now I plan to build another Nike Ajax, 55". These questions are simple to you so no flaming.

I will be cutting my own fins, 15 in all from blank sheets of Balsa. I think I know but am looking for tips, if any on how to make accurate cuts, coating. etc.

I probably build this kit as a static display, no filght capabilities. When built in such a manner, can they easily converted to a launch capable rocket?

Any other tips about paint coatings, types, number of coats, etc. Where is a good source for launch platforms?

Thanks
 
Yes, it is a TLP Ajax. I found at greatlanding.com. They have 2 kits left.

Greatlanding are excellent responders, shipping the Ajax kit the same day I ordered, priority mail. Kit was lower than list price. Anyhow, I can't wait for its arrival! The Estes model I built some years back looks real good so I think this 55.5"er ought to be wow!
 
Wait a second! You aren't finished yet!;)

The Launch Pad kits do NOT come with decals!

You are in luck though, out own Astronboy makes a set for TLP Nike Ajax kit.

https://www.excelsiorrocketry.com/

Just click on "The Launch Pad decal" link at the top and scroll down to the Nike Ajax.

Also do a search for Nike Ajax here. There are a lot of pictures!

I hope, if the weather cooperates, to fly mine tomorrow at Michigan International Speedway.:rolleyes:
 
Hi:

Yes I've already ordered the decals from excelsior. Let me know how it flys!
 
The review at rocket reviews is worth reading and gives some good construction ideas.

https://www.rocketreviews.com/reviews/kits/tlp_nike_ajax.html

The kit was not available for a while and since I won a gift certicate from ASP at a club meet, I scratch built a copy. I used heavier materials and did not recess the engines like in the launch pad kit. Due to the extra weight, it flys fine if all the engines ignite, but has a wimpy flight if only two light. I just got my 3rd 24 mm casing and will fly it on three composites the next time it flys. With the engines recessed you need to protect the end of the body tube. Coating with epoxy helps. Some use a heat resistant duct tape and replace it every few flights as needed. Since it is so long it is susceptable to damage where the two tubes join. Eventually I will cut mine apart and reenforce it with extra couplers. I used dowels as an easy way to simulate the wire conduits.
 
I figure you know what to do, for the most part, if you have already built a few. So just be careful, take your time, use a good straight edge and a sharp X-acto blade, line things up well, yada yada yada.
Read the instructions for the fin layout and note which direction the wood grain should be running.
I like to take the extra time to scuff-sand the BT where the fins are going to go. This is to remove the thin plastic coating on the BT and give the glue (whatever kind of adhesive you choose) a better chance to penetrate for a good structural joint.
I also like to pre-glue the roots (and the matching part of the BT) and then do the preliminary fin attachment only with a few glue 'tacks' until I see if the fins are lined up where I want them. After everything is where I want it I add glue to the rest of the fin root to finish the attachment (but be careful to keep an eye on the fins and be sure they hold their alignment).
I don't like to add any sealers, or stiffen the fin balsa with CA until *after* I make sure the fin root structural joint is solid.


Is that the kind of (flame-free) advice you were looking for?
 
Yes powderburner, that is the kind of info I need. I'm trying to avoid the gotcha's while getting pointers. I think the fins will be the biggest challenge.
 
I think the fins will be the biggest challenge.
Click to expand...

LOL! ahhh...no they won't;)

The fins are easy.

The conduit. THOSE are a PIA!!

I cut mine on a band saw.
 
Originally posted by zeke1312
I will be cutting my own fins, 15 in all from blank sheets of Balsa. I think I know but am looking for tips, if any on how to make accurate cuts, coating. etc.

I probably build this kit as a static display, no filght capabilities. When built in such a manner, can they easily converted to a launch capable rocket?
Click to expand...

As far as accurate cuts, you can always cut a little on the 'large' side and sand down to final shape. Actually, no matter how you do it, I doubt anyone is ever going to get out a micrometer and measure your model...

I am not sure what you mean by no flight capabilities---I would suggest that you go ahead and build per the instructions. I mean, you're going to need all the interstage/coupler stuff anyway to hold the two stages together. If you don't want to ever launch it, fine, leave it on your desk, but if you ever DO decide to fly it, you will have a major PITA trying to relocate all the MMT parts you left out, and to get them back in the proper place (it's usually easier to install them as the directions say).

My 2 cents-
 
Sounds like I'll build it the way it was designed, for launching. Yes I did read somewhere the "conduits are the biggest PITA. What are the conduits and what are they used for? How does a person cut, build and install? Is there substitue material that can do the same job easier and or better? Hope I'm not buggin you guys with all these questions!

What tools and other material not supplied do I need to get? Oh, by the way, what kind of launch pad or rail do I need? My first Nike Ajax came with this item.

What kind of sealers, paint, etc is recommended? What kind of sandpaper or steel wool? How about glue? What's the best kind?

I plan to take pictures during the construction. Maybe I can upload? All this stuff I'm saying me be out in left field for those of you that are old hands at this.

I just want to build an excellent Nike Ajax down to all the details.
 
Welcome Zeke,

There is a wealth of info about construction and finishing on trf.

If you use the search feature you will find more than you could possibly read at one setting .

a search on Nike ajax will also bring up a number of pages.

good luck with the Nike
 
One of the reasons I built my first Estes Nike Ajax and after several years (I built and launched in the mid 70s and I think it is an Estes) is because I was stationed on Nike sites from 1960 thru 1966. We had both Ajax and Hercules. Ajax looks much easier to build. It wwas interesting during the Cuban Missile Crisis! Swedesboro, NJ Nike Ajax 85 degrees sitting on their launch rails. Challenged many aircraft with IFF off the Jersey coast.
 
I built my EXACTLY to the plans, no variations on materials at all!

Elmer's white glue only!

More than enough nose weight to balance the model. The CG was right where the roc sim said, just at the front of the transition.

I loaded 2 D12-3's and one D12-5 engine. I like to add one longer delay motor as sort of a "backup" ejection that's why the one odd motor.

It was breezy...maybe too breezy but what the heck go for it...

PERFECT boost, PERFECT flight arcing into the wind tracking an incoming Soviet bomber, more than enough power with the three D12 motors...then...a perfect deployment at about 450'.

I did use the Apogee 32" chute instead of the two mylar chutes from the kit.

Perfect touchdown!

I LOVED IT!!!

Sudddenly, it was 1955.:D

I retrieve the rocket and head back to my truck and decide to pull the motors out...what a suprise!!!

Only 2 (two) out of the three motors lit!

I guess I did build it light!:rolleyes:

Man, I wanna see what she'll do when all three motors go off!

Yes, I'm very happy!

As a side note on the conduit. I cut mine from a sheet of 3/16" balsa. About 1/4" wide at the base and maybe 3/32" at the top on the profile. I cut my conduits on a band saw.

The whole operation including setup of the angle and rip fence on a cheap $100 band say took less than 5 minutes to cut all 4 conduits..
 
Folks, this was a truly beautiful flight.

Want to know how good it was?

Somebody offered to buy the rocket from Sandman. :eek:
 
Sandman:

Nice flight, congrats!

Rocket_it:

What # of sandpaper?. Elmer white an all joined surfaces?
How do I determine the grain and orientation to fin cut? I still donn't understand these conduits, what they are used for and why they are hard to work with. I know I'll find out but any info at this stage would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Here is a profile of the conduit.

They run the length of the upper stage even onto the nose cone.

There are four equally spaced centered between the fins.

Here's a pic.
 
OK, now I know. Hey, on the Estes Ajax I built, had the same....just did'nt know what they were called. Now as I remember they were not any big deal on the Estes. Why on the TLP?
 
Originally posted by zeke1312
I still donn't understand these conduits, what they are used for and why they are hard to work with.
Click to expand...
Are you asking about the conduits on the real, full-size missile or on the model?

On the real thing, conduits are used to cover wiring and other systems connections that have to reach from the front of the missile to the rear (and get past the motor casing). The rocket motor is made in a circular cross-section (for structural reasons) and it is impractical to make a "slot" in the side of the motor case to route the missile systems. So, they run the wire bundles down the outside of the motor case and cover them up with a fairing in the form of a conduit.

Conduits are sometimes also used to house the actuators for the missile control fins, and sometimes provide a clean fairing over the fin root structural attachments.

On the model, conduits are one of the few prominent external features for which you score scale points, so good-quality scale models usually include them.
 
Here's my Nike's launch from yesterday.

Need to thank Eagle3 for the pics, thanks Buzz.

nikeboost.jpg
 
Sandman: Wow, looks great! Where can one get plans or parts to build a replica Nike Ajax launcher?
 
Rail Buttons? What are they? I was on the Radar side (IFC) and not a "pit rat" i.e., guys in the Launcher area, so my missile knowledge is limited.

Check out :

www.ed-thelen.org

All the info, pictures, etc, than anywhere else.
 
OK, just received my TLP Nike Ajax kit. I'll start construction soon.
 
OK, for cutting balsa in the Nike Ajax project, which tool is best suited for working the wood, X-acto knife, coping saw or Zona type saw?

How about this: for all the patterns, copy the pattern to regular paper via scanner. Cut pattern, glue to wood, let dry then cut the pattern. Create an overweight problem, weight imbalance. Goal is to lay pattern on balsa and cut wood without pattern shifting while cutting.

I read on another forum to make a pattern copy, face printed side to wood, then use a light amount of thinner/solvent to transfer pattern to wood.
 
I cut the paper patern then cut one part as acurately as I can.

Mark this part with an "M" for master.

Now use this "master" part to cut the other fins but cut them all a tiny bit (a blade thickness) larger.

Then stack them together with the master and sand them with a sanding block (sandpaper glued to a block of wood) to match the master part.

That works for me.
 

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