Cleaning Aerotech casings.

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Lee Haltom

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I have been wanting to get my first Aerotech casing, a 24/40. I like the savings of the 3 packs. My question is if i wanted to launch more than once on launch day, do you have to clean it between launches and how long does that take? I like to launch as many as I can when I do because I never know when I'll get another chance with time, weather, field availability. Also, if any spectators are there, they don't like waiting around!
 
For field cleaning, I usually bring a bucket of water and use Windex Vinegar spray cleaner (or just use any spray bottle with some vinegar and water in it). Spray inside the casing, wipe it out, rinse it off, dry it and you are good for the next flight. Once you get home, you can do a more thorough cleaning.
 
The case should be cleaned after every flight, as soon as possible. I use alcohol-based Wet Ones hand wipes. The 24/40 case takes maybe a minute to clean, perhaps more when using black jack reloads (E11 & F12).
 
Definitely give the case a thorough cleaning at the end of the day. That being said, I test lots of 38 mm motors with Loki hardware. All I do is to wipe off the worst of the crud with a paper towel, remove any residue from the graphite nozzle, install new o-rings, load, and it's ready to go. I've not had a failure yet that could be traced to insufficient cleaning.

Best -- Terry
 
There's something magical about baby wipes. The manufacturers put something in there that is amazingly effective when it comes to cleaning motor hardware. And another helpful tip: don't hesitate to wear blue nitrile gloves when you do it. A dirty used rocket motor is the very definition of gnarly, and blue gloves are only 9 cents apiece at Sams Club, well worth it.
Bob Schultz
 
Baby wipes or similar like has been said above. It's easier to clean when warm from just being used. Just watch those fine threads at either end of the case and on the closures. They should be cleaned so you don't have any grit/residue in them but they're also fine enough that they can cut a finger easily.
 
Agree. Baby wipes, windex. The key is to clean before the resedue completely cools and hardens. If you wait too long, it can be a challenge at times to clean.
 
Apogee sells a wire brush designed for 24mm casings for about $10. Just dip it in a little vinegar and scrub gently, then rinse with water and dry. It'll take off all the residue and you won't have to keep buying anything other than the 5-6% vinegar. Works like a charm. Just take care not to scrub really hard as it could (theoretically) damage the anodized finish.
 
Like many have stated, baby wipes work wonders for field cleanings. I keep a few dowels in my range box with a strip of sandpaper glued to the end to grip the wipes when wrapped around the end, and then use that to do a clean of the cases after each flight. I have found the trick to to clean them when they are still somewhat warm, within an hour or two of the flight.
 
You can get many different suggestion. Over the weekend I tried some CRC electronics spray can I got from my local auto parts store. I could not believe how well it cleaned everything. Spray on a scotch bright and go to it. There is always a build up inside the case at both closures and it took no effort to remove.I have tried everything and now I use the CRC. Great stuff.
 
https://rocketsok.com/case-snakes/I originally designed these for the TARC team I mentor for quick turn around between flights. Spray the case with Sok1 case cleaner, pull it through and reload! Once home from the field give the case a good scrubbing with a brush in warm soapy water. I like Dawn dish soap. I have found that even though the cases are aluminum the AP reside from the propellant will still corrode the inside of the case when you store it, so the bath before bed helps remove that nicely!
-Brian
 
Baby wipes for field cleaning and IPA or Lucas Oil contact cleaner (from their gun line) for deep cleaning. I think the magic of baby wipe is that they are very mildly abrasive while somehow also being gentle. They work wonders for pellet stove glass too!
 
Usually, I push out all the scorched phenolic insulation, then, I've used a weak solution of sodium bicarbonate to soak my cases for a few hours when I get home. Then, I wash up/degrease with soap of some type, until they look new. It is rarely an issue. I do use acetone or some other solvent to remove all the grease on the casing if I can "feel" debris in the threads.

I don't think it matters much what cleaning brew you use. You need the surfaces smooth, and generally uncontaminated, so at least the stuff fits together properly.

I'm generally a fan of Lucas Oil products and will be looking into their contact cleaner. Thanks.
 

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