Build thread: Really Koo Stuff 1/100 N1 Moon Rocket

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Oh wow! What does it weigh? What motors are you planning on flying it on? That looks like a monster!
Website says 986 grams, or just under 35 ounces.
Only recommended motor is a F67-4 (for now, stay tuned).
Apogee of 251 ft, perfect for our small field.
 
Website says 986 grams, or just under 35 ounces.
Only recommended motor is a F67-4 (for now, stay tuned).
Apogee of 251 ft, perfect for our small field.

You'll get to see the whole thing! And recovery should be easy. Maybe a G74 is an option, but only a few more Ns than the F67, and hazmat (unless you have it locally).
 
And away we go.
Twelve rectangular biscuits are CA'd into 12 slots around the first stage lower half.
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The inside and outside edges of the two plastic centering rings are scuffed with sandpaper to promote epoxy adhesion.
Also the fit of the BT-60 tube in the inner holes are checked and the holes are sanded if necessary.
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Note the two rings printed into the first stage upper half.
The solid ring is for the smaller centering ring to butt up against, and the dashed ring is for the larger centering ring. Also note the internal launch lug.
Well thought out design features.
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Dry fitted the centering rings in the first stage upper half.
Note the notches for the launch lug.
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Now excuse me while I mix up some epoxy.
TBC.
 
Hey Marten.
I'm not an insomniac, but I dozed off earlier in the evening and I'm wide awake now.
I think there is an unwritten Law of Epoxy:
No matter how careful you are, you WILL get some on you.
Or your clothes.
Heh.
Anyway, I was going to lay down the glue beads with a syringe but since these are internal glue seams and nobody's going to see them I used a popsicle stick.
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Once the epoxy sets the two halves of the first stage are CA'd together.
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This is set aside to fully cure.
Good night.
 
The next step in the instructions is to glue the grid fin stabilizers to the first stage.
I'll glue these on later after I've sanded the micro ridges down on the first stage, otherwise they'll just get in the way and might get broken. Four stabilizers are supplied with two spares.
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So now it's assembling the motor mount and "skeleton", as David calls it. (Actually the core stuffer tube).
Instructions say epoxy for the motor retainer and the plywood centering rings to motor tube joint. However it then states to use wood glue for the centering ring to BT-60 tube joint.
???
I'll be using JB Weld epoxy for the motor retainer and wood glue for the ply centering rings to both tubes. Someone who should know stated once in a thread here that there is no advantage in using epoxy over wood glue in a wood product to wood product bond. I shall defer to that opinion.
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Notice that the stage 1 tube is marked? Not by me, came out of the box like that.
Another good idea, keeps the tubes from getting mixed up.
Notches are cut in both CRs to accomodate a removable Kevlar leader. I used a needle file.
The inside of the threaded retainer is scuffed up with sandpaper for epoxy adhesion, and the motor mount is glued together.
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This needs to fully dry.
TBC
 
A hitch loop was run around the end of the motor mount between the retainer and the aft CR and pulled tight.
The mount was then glued into the BT-60 tube.
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Excess kevlar was treated with wood glue and when dry trimmed off.
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On the other end of the BT-60 tube the "skeleton" was further extended by gluing in a BT-50 segment with centering rings (which had been allowed to dry overnight).
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Waste support material needs to be removed from the nose cone and LES towers
Before
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After
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Before
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0402210341[1].jpg

After
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Top: stock flight tower
Bottom: optional display tower.
The display tower is finer resolution and fit the nose cone without sanding.
The stock tower had residue/flash stuck to it even after the support material was removed and required considerable sanding to fit.

While the glue is drying on the "skeleton" now is a good time to sand the micro ridges on the 3D parts.
0402210740[1].jpg

Ugh, my favorite part.
TBC
 
I'm a little lost, nothing new now days. Where did this kit come from?
Looks interesting
 
The goal of sanding is to knock down the micro ridges somewhat, not to obtain a completely flat surface.
Instructions give you a wet sanding option, less dust in the air.
I prefer dry sanding, seems less messy IMHO.
To each his own.
Hopefully the hi-fill primer will take care of the rest.
After sanding but before the primer the grid stabilizers are glued on.
0403210722[1].jpg

The clay ballast is tamped into the nose cone and foamed in with Gorilla glue.
(My SOP, not in instructions).
0403210721[1].jpg

The plastic parts are now ready for primer and paint.
This will be done over the next few days.
TBC.
 
Primer has been shot and sanded.
Before basecoating and epoxying together the large parts I thought I should show you guys how the skeleton ties the major sections together.
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As you can see, it's easier to basecoat the major sections now then do the assembly.
After that it's gluing on the fiddly bits (upper and lower trusses), assembling the recovery gear and done.
Anyway, basecoating later today, then a couple of days to fully dry then epoxy.
 
Somebody was selling vintage QModeling rocket stands on EBay so I had to pull the trigger.
Glued em together and set them aside to dry.
Heavy and solid, for the bigger rockets.
 
This is really a nice looking model with a lot of detail. I would love to see more pictures. Is it ready to launch?
Base-coated sub-assemblies yesterday. Needs to dry then will epoxy everything together.
After that just need to attach the upper and lower struts.
Will post more close-ups in the next posts.
 
While the basecoat was drying I took some close ups of the sub-assemblies.
0508210714[1].jpg0508210715[1].jpg0508210715a[1].jpg0508210718[1].jpg0508210718a[1].jpg0508210719[1].jpg

I reread the instructions, the recommended glue for attachment to the skeleton is contact cement, not epoxy. This is to facilitate easier repair and disassembly.
So I'll be stopping by Home Depot today.
In the meantime the trusses were laid out on cardboard with double stick tape.
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And basecoated. Only on one side, the glue side is unpainted.
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TBC.
 
HD didn't have Gorilla Glue contact adhesive so I'll be using epoxy instead.
The plastic to paper surfaces to be glued are sandpapered to remove paint and roughened for better adhesion.
I used a two part epoxy paste called PC Super Epoxy. It's thick and doesn't run.
The first and second stages are glued to the skeleton.
Then two centering rings for the BT-60 tube are glued to the top of the BT-50 stuffer tube with yellow glue.
0515211147a[1].jpg
0515211147[1].jpg

Make sure that the launch lug opening is not obstructed by the fuel line shrouds.
0515211149[1].jpg

This is left to fully dry/cure.
TBC
 
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