Best Glue to use

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Dbarrm

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I was wondering what glue do you use. Right now im using elmers wood glue. It seems to work very well for me. Any better ideas?

Dan
 

jetra2

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Ok...I'm gonna answer your question with a question. What kind of rockets are you building?

Mainly, for LPR rockets, I'll use CyA, which is a fancy name for Super Glue, then I'll fillet the fins with yellow glue for a bit more strength, let it dry, then cover that over with Elmer's Fill n' Finish filler to make a nice looking fillet.

For my limited range of MPR and HPR rockets, it's epoxy or nothing. I am not going to trust it to yellow glue...it just doesn't sound right...

"Yeah, this rocket's gonna fly on an I357 today...Yup...those fins are attached with yellow glue!" :p

No way, Hosea!

Jason
 

Dbarrm

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Right now im doing LPR (Thanks glossary). I do have the epoxy and fiber resin for my bigger projects.

Dan
 

powderburner

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Boy, that's a loaded qstn!

A quick TRF search (on 'glue') will probably turn up lots of informative posts

For low-power stuff, I like Elmers-style white glue, because it works just fine and because you can get it dirt cheap at the back-to-school sales. It is strong enough and tough enough to hold things together just fine. I also use it (watered down) to laminate paper covering onto balsa fins for reinforcement and for a smoother finish.

I also use CA especially for soaking into the edges of balsa fins and cardboard BT for reinforcement.

I use epoxies in a few places, where required for whatever reason, but usually don't use much of it.

There are more specialized glues that you will have to use from time to time, especially when dealing with Estes-type plastic components.
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by Dbarrm
I was wondering what glue do you use. Right now im using elmers wood glue. It seems to work very well for me. Any better ideas?

Dan
For LPR I use wood glue usually, but I've taken to using CyA (cyano-acrylate = super glue) for stick fins on. It may be better, maybe not. But it sure speeds things up. Even so, they get regular wood glue fillets, or rarely epoxy fillets if they might need added strength. (Wood glue can leave hollows or bubbles if layered on too thick).
 

rbeckey

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As was said, this has been debated here a few times. ;) I use whatever pleases me. Certainly epoxy is not less effective than wood glue. I like gel epoxy for fillets, but sometimes use wood glue, especially when working with kids. Expirement with everything and you will find everything has a place. Lots of folks use regular white Elmers for most everything, and that is good for them, but don't let anyone tell you how to build your rockets.
I have taken to attaching LPR shock cords by running a bead of polyurethane glue down the inside of a BT and laying kevlar in it. I also use poly glue on internal parts like motor mounts. It does not cause dimples in the BT from shrinkage, like wood glue can.
I also attach fins with CA and fillet with another adhesive. Poly glue can be effective with soft platics like in Crayon rockets because it wedges things together as it expands.
 

Dbarrm

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Ill tell you one thing. CA sure does cut down the time waiting for glue to dry. I have already found a few glues that I dont like but will keep testing different kinds to find what works best where.

Dan
 

sandman

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What's the BEST glue???

That's like asking what's the best car to own...don't start you guys!!! All cars are evil!

Glue...That is a big variable...

The most VERSITiLE glue is Elmer's white glue.

Strong
Durable
Use as a coating or a glue
Water soluble
Extreamly non-toxic...eat all ya want...we'll make more.
and very very cheap.

sandman
 

Fore Check

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I'm in the CA crowd - but I prefer to use the "slow-zap" or longer cure CAs. It's thicker, still sets relatively quickly and rock solid, and it provides just enough workability to get your fins positioned just right before it really grabs hold. This is also a beneficial charactaristic for placement of centering rings and instaling motor mounts, as you can slide the ring on or slide the mount in and position it before it grabs.


For fillets, I use Fix-It moldable epoxy clay. Really great stuff! Check out www.Apogeerockets.com to find it and get more info.
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by Fore Check
I'm in the CA crowd - but I prefer to use the "slow-zap" or longer cure CAs. It's thicker, still sets relatively quickly and rock solid, and it provides just enough workability to get your fins positioned just right before it really grabs hold. This is also a beneficial charactaristic for placement of centering rings and instaling motor mounts, as you can slide the ring on or slide the mount in and position it before it grabs.


For fillets, I use Fix-It moldable epoxy clay. Really great stuff! Check out www.Apogeerockets.com to find it and get more info.
I just found out EZBond (largest manufacturer of CyA) has an oderless formula available (alkyl- insiead of ethyl-CyA). Usually you don't use enough of this to matter, but just try "filleting" the fin roots inside a through-wall design and watch the fumes pour out. First time it happened to me I thought it was smoke and I ran outside with it. Talk about acrid.... I'd like to find some of this stuff to try.

I did pick up that epoxy clay. I'm about to start an AT Mirage. It doesn't require fillets, but they might help out, so I figure this is a safe bird to try it on.
 

Hospital_Rocket

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I'm in the CyA and Yellow glue crowd for LPR. However, I have found a good solution for internal work. For Mating MMT assemblies to BTs And other inside the body work, I use Polyurethane (Gorilla Glue). It flows nicely is darn near as stong as epoxy, and is very light. Only problem is it foams as it cures and takes about 24 hours.

For MPR I use epoxy. 5 min to tack things together and 45min to finish it off. For anything requiring the ultimate in strength, I use JB-Weld.

Funny thing is, I keep looking at my glue gun thinking it must have a use, and I just can't find one. Kind of annoying to have a solution in search of a problem...
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by Hospital_Rocket
I'm in the CyA and Yellow glue crowd for LPR. However, I have found a good solution for internal work. For Mating MMT assemblies to BTs And other inside the body work, I use Polyurethane (Gorilla Glue). It flows nicely is darn near as stong as epoxy, and is very light. Only problem is it foams as it cures and takes about 24 hours.

For MPR I use epoxy. 5 min to tack things together and 45min to finish it off. For anything requiring the ultimate in strength, I use JB-Weld.

Funny thing is, I keep looking at my glue gun thinking it must have a use, and I just can't find one. Kind of annoying to have a solution in search of a problem...
Question re: Gorilla glue: foams how much? Enough to say, try to squirt out the cracks on a fin-thru-slotted-body?

I've got a hot glue gun I haven't used yet since I got back into rocketry. I know the stuff is stong enough to hold together the parts of a guitar neck under constant stress of the tightened strings, so it's got to be good for something. Maybe quick setting fins? Hey, I've got this cool looking little rubber brain pencil sharpener that'd fit real well on top a 1.6" nose cone.....
 

Stones

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I use Elmer's Pro Bond Wood Glue. Just a preference.
 

lalligood

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Originally posted by DynaSoar
Question re: Gorilla glue: foams how much? Enough to say, try to squirt out the cracks on a fin-thru-slotted-body?

I've got a hot glue gun I haven't used yet since I got back into rocketry. I know the stuff is stong enough to hold together the parts of a guitar neck under constant stress of the tightened strings, so it's got to be good for something. Maybe quick setting fins? Hey, I've got this cool looking little rubber brain pencil sharpener that'd fit real well on top a 1.6" nose cone.....
It depends on how much Gorilla Glue (& other polyurethane glues for that matter) you use. Have you ever used the PML 2-part foam? Essentially it's the same stuff except water is what induces the chemical reaction & it doesn't foam nearly as fast nor as much. Gorilla Glue is great when you want to use small amounts like just for internal fillets but don't want to fill the entire fin can. The stuff would squirt out the cracks on a slotted tube if the fins fit loosely. However, once cured, any foam in undesired places can easily be cut, sanded, even chiselled away! And I think this was mentioned before but poly glue sticks to ANYTHING :)

And regarding your glue gun solution without a problem... I guess it depends on where you live & where on the rocket you wanted to use the glue. Hot glue can always be reheated. (Re)exposing the rocket to extreme and/or prolonged heats can cause the parts to at the very least move if not come completely unattached :eek: Anywhere close to a motor mount tube is a definite bad idea & leaving a rocket in the hot sun (especially here like oh-so-hot Central Florida!) is asking for serious trouble. Your mileage may vary. Personally, I'd stay away from it. There are plenty of permanent adhesives that are just as easy to use.
 

carldoc

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As far as using hot glue for rockets, I prefer not to. When using small body tubes, the glue quickly heats up and becomes soft again. The heat from the engines transfers thru the tube and causes the glue to remelt. This has been my experience with it.
 

wwattles

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From what I've heard, hot glue is generally a poor choice for our uses, because it remains somewhat "rubbery" when cooled. Most of the time, we want something that will hold still and not flex at all, like hot glue joints would.

As for other glues, I've got in my arsenal:
ZAP CA (VERY runny, and very fast drying!)
Elmers Glue-All
Elmers Wood Glue
Elmers Ultimate Glue (polyurethane glue)
Elmers Craft Bond
Devcon 5-minute Epoxy
Devcon 2-ton Epoxy
Various forms of spray adhesive (got so many cans I'm not gonna list them - they all work about the same)

WW
 

Hospital_Rocket

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Hey, I've got this cool looking little rubber brain pencil sharpener that'd fit real well on top a 1.6" nose cone.....
No No No

That is a guidance system and goes in a clear payload compartment.
 

BlueNinja

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Originally posted by sandman

Extreamly non-toxic...eat all ya want...we'll make more.
and very very cheap.

sandman
Yes yes i know, that was one of my hobbies in 1st grade :rolleyes:

I absolutely HATE epoxy, i can never get it to mix right and when I do it isn't just right so it stays tacky for a week... I prefer CYA and Elmers White. Not for eating anymore. The thing with CA is the fumes, i use odorless CA which is a couple dollars more expensive but I think its worth it.
 

Hospital_Rocket

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Various forms of spray adhesive (got so many cans I'm not gonna list them - they all work about the same)
How do you use the spray glue? The only use I ever found was in a couple of Quest kits to glue paper artwork to balsa fins.

One idea which came to me was to spray the inside of a LPR BT with 3M type 77 and slip in the motor mount.
 

Hospital_Rocket

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One thing about polyurethanes

They exotherm while drying and actually pass thru a phase where they seem to get thinner than when cast.

One rocket manufacturer, Cycline3 makes extensive use in their kits to build ultra light 24MM screamers,

A
 

Stymye

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<backing up a post or 2>
I've initially glued fins on using hot glue,instead of cya..I found it to work pretty well,
but I noticed right away, I had to work fast ..the stuff seemed to cool very quickly,
bottom line,cya was so much easier, and like others,I I like the titebond for fillets,, but Ive started using lite epoxy(5 min) for rings anymore
because the yellow glue is so bad about grabbing the part
before it's where it's supposed to be..heh
 

wwattles

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Originally posted by Hospital_Rocket
How do you use the spray glue? The only use I ever found was in a couple of Quest kits to glue paper artwork to balsa fins.
Same idea, but I use it to laminate paper or card stock to the surface. 2 panes of glass and some heavy objects help hold it flat, too.

WW
 

Micromeister

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Like Powderburner said...boy what a loaded question!

Not trying to be a wise guy.. there are as many glues and adhesives out here as there are rocketeers.
Glues are usually an animal by product yes sometimes made from Old horses;) While adhesives are the result of Chemistry.
Strength and flexibility are things to be kept in mind.
For LMR's glues like Elmor's white or Yellow carpenters glue is just fine but require sometime LONG drying times.
Model Airplane folks STILL rely heavily on a material called Ambroid Liquid cement , which has proved over the years to be both super strong and retains it's flexibility over many year after application. It has a smell, but dries faster than elmors.
CA's come in a variety of stick times from Instant to about 30second. I use pints of the medium CA from ZAP but NOT for fillets or places where long term strenght joints are needed. CA's become very brittle very quickly. so they make great spot holding adhesives, reinforceing for balsa and short life models like PD and SD competition models. but shouldn't be used as a primary adhesive for most other models. Combinations of CA and Epoxy 5 or 30 minute have a proven track record for strength and longevity. I'm still flying CA/epoxyed models some 10 years later. I also have some 30 year old Ambroid constructed models that fly on a regular basis.
The only negative comments I have are:
NEVER use any type of HOT melt (glue gun) glue on any model rocket.
DO NOT Use Gorilla glue for anything you can't heavily CLAMP. It's a great carpenters glue-up glue, possibly OK for some motor mounts but that's about it. it expands 3 to 4 times its volumn during curing. It makes a real mess of most application, and is a real pain to cut or sand. I don't see any usefulness for this product in LPR OR MPR rockets.
In short the best glue for MODEL rockets (LPR and MPR) is the one or combination you are most comfortable with:D
If your totally confused.. Congratulations your right at home with the rest of us;)
 

Elapid

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JB Weld for motor mount joints on anything bigger than E-powered models
i use medium ca for initial assembly of the rest of the model
5 min epoxy fillets for smaller models
30 min epoxy for bigger models

whatever works for you and keeps the models together...
it doesn't take long to figure out
:D
 
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