2.63" (formerly 3" Mailing) Tube Printed Rocket

[thzero]

Unfortunately the nose cone only last 4 flights... came down on drogue only after an issue with the Jolly Logic. Jolly Logic was my fault; was trying something other than the elastic silicon bands that keep disintegrating and well didn't get enough pull on the band so the JLCR worked, but didn't pop loose.





Didn't just shear at the printed planes, but across the strands. So gonna print another one, and may think about doing a layer of fiberglass on the outside. Need to also get my other printer that can do filaments like CarbonX going.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

The fact that it sheared across layer shows your print settings (nozzle temp, cooling, and speed at least) are dialed in. Good stuff.

When I print nosecones I usually do 3-4 solid layers and then about 25% infill. Not sure if it would have prevented this, but it's a thought.

 

[thzero]

Reprinted the motor retainers; one cracked in the hard landing and the other wasn't the right config for the non 29/40-120 cases.

 

[thzero]

Reprinted the nose cone with a few tweaks. Also working a few tweaks the mid-section with some honeycombing to see if I can strengthen it a bit without adding too much weight.

 

[jpatton]

Yeah, haven't tried NylonX yet... not sure my printer can handle it based on recommended temps.

Didn't see this brought up in the further discussion. You can change out that stock hot end on the ender with an all metal one and print those temps just fine. You are correct though in that you don't want to be printing it with the stock hot end with that ptfe tubing going all the way down through the hot end.

 

[thzero]

I'd agree with the Ender, not quite as easy with the CR 6SE. Of course after putting the Prusa together, might have been easier to deal with swapping to a direct on the 6SE

 

[BDB]

Didn't see this brought up in the further discussion. You can change out that stock hot end on the ender with an all metal one and print those temps just fine. You are correct though in that you don't want to be printing it with the stock hot end with that ptfe tubing going all the way down through the hot end.

I print almost exclusively with NylonX on my Ender 5. The only issue is the cost of the filament, but I love the way it works. The parts are a little more flexible than PLA but lots stronger. I upgraded my printer with a Microswiss all metal hot end with direct drive. I also have a filament warmer/dryer. I've heard that it's necessary, but I'm not sure. If I were doing it again, I'd try without the dryer first.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

I print almost exclusively with NylonX on my Ender 5. The only issue is the cost of the filament, but I love the way it works. The parts are a little more flexible than PLA but lots stronger. I upgraded my printer with a Microswiss all metal hot end with direct drive. I also have a filament warmer/dryer. I've heard that it's necessary, but I'm not sure. If I were doing it again, I'd try without the dryer first.

Nylon MUST be kept dry. Terrible results without...been there, done that, have the crappy prints to show for it.

 

[BDB]

I have printed a few things when I forgot to turn the dryer on, but that was in the winter when my basement was pretty dry. I probably just got lucky.

It sounds like I did the right thing buying the SunLu dryer. It looks like the prices have come down on them, which is a relief. It was painfully expensive (considering how simple of a device it is) when I bought it last year.

 

[Dustin Lobner]

I have printed a few things when I forgot to turn the dryer on, but that was in the winter when my basement was pretty dry. I probably just got lucky.

It sounds like I did the right thing buying the SunLu dryer. It looks like the prices have come down on them, which is a relief. It was painfully expensive (considering how simple of a device it is) when I bought it last year.

Yeah, I just use my food dehydrator. (Or rather, used, because I just burned it out).

They say you should get it to 160*F, which a lot of driers like SunLu can't do (I think). If using a food dehydrator, get one that can do jerky (jerky needs the 160*F)

 

[thzero]

Did a layer of 3 oz fiberglass. Made a pattern and cut out 4 fiberglass strips and worked around the rocket. Then did the same for release fabric. Then put the entire thing in a vacuum sealer. Few wrinkles I need to work out, but came out pretty decent - just finished the leather stage, so we'll check it tomorrow.

 

[thzero]

Sanded and on top of the rocket. Just needs warmer weather to do some painting and it should be good to go.

 

[thzero]

I've been working on a version 2 of the Fireball... but this time with fully dual deployment. Completely new set of body tubes, but guess what can easily be swapped? Yes, the fins and nose cone (well that one is normally easy).

But this one, since its longer with a larger stability well beyond 2 calibers, wanted to try some different looks. So I did up some canards - not movable, so they do effect the CP. Goes from 2.83 without to 1.69 with.

Anyways, doing much the same techniques for the canards as I did the main fins - 3d printed fins, and then then fiberglass. Is fiberglass really needed? Probably not since they'll be on the payload bay and won't be the first thing that hits the ground, however they could I guess bang around during descent. Probably perfectly fine without the fiberglass, but what the heck its just some more fiberglass, epoxy, release fabric and time (I really need a heat box).

Mostly finished product. This was after the leather stage when I trimmed. Once fully cure, I'll do some more sanding to smooth them out a bit, get rid of any rough areas, etc.



Part of the process... coated the fins with epoxy, taking the first one I coated first and then doing the fiberglass and release fabric. For the bends, had to make a few relief cuts. While I worked on each one, the epoxy slightly setup which to me helped keep the cloth, etc. on easier.



Then they were bagged with just a food vacuum bagger. Unfortunately the food saver I'm using doesn't allow for starting and stopping, so you need to quickly adjust and doesn't always work. But actually the part come out nice even with the bagging issues.

 

[thzero]

The single deployment version of the rocket broken down.



The parts of the dual deployment version of the rocket. Based on the weight, it is a high power only rocket - meant to run on some bigger Hs and small Is.





And the rocket stacked. Still needs some work such as the shear pin plates done and the flag pin holes drilled, but otherwise should be mostly good to go. Avbay is already available as it uses the same avbay as a BT-70 dual deploy rocket, just different printed end caps.