How Do I Remove Fix-It Epoxy?

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TZ250

TZ250

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Everyone,
This is my first post. I'm new to model rockets. I'm building my first kit, which is an Apogee Aspire. I plan to use G engines so I epoxied the fins on yesterday. By the time that I finished the fins, I'd learned a lot about using this epoxy.

I just noticed that one of the fins is crooked. The Fix-It epoxy is 1 day old. How do I remove it to reset the fin? Do I have to cut it off and sand the tube and fin?

Thanks in advance!
 
although I have never done it with a rocket, epoxy can be removed by heating it until it is soft and then blading it off. The tube can then have the traces sanded off. I have removed stray spots of epoxy by using a dremel.
 
Us model airplane guys use a monokote heat gun to warm up the epoxy(it crystalizes) and chip away at it.
 
Thanks guys! I had not thought of that. I have heat gun, somewhere...

I'll report back soon.

Thanks again!
 
Gillard, this Is a special type of epoxy, epoxy clay, not the semi-liquid epoxy that you have to mix in containers. Well,first things first, why did you use epoxy? On Wood-paper bonds, wood glue is the best, if you use it correctly, the meterial will break before the joint will give. Well to remove the stuff, take A little bit of warn water and rub the fillet a little bit, it will sofen the epoxy, then use a heat gun, and that will finish the job.
 
TZ250 said:
Thanks guys! I had not thought of that. I have heat gun, somewhere...

I'll report back soon.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Take care not to over heat as epoxy gives off nasty fumes if heated too much.
 
I don't know if heating Fix-it will work since its clay like epoxy not like the normal stuff.But you never know it could work.
 
Luv2launch said:
I don't know if heating Fix-it will work since its clay like epoxy not like the normal stuff.But you never know it could work.
Click to expand...

if heat does not work, you could use a cutting wheel on a dremel - would take time but you could get a good finish if you are careful - use a grinding stone to remove the last bits of epoxy and than sand away.
 
The heat method worked, but it warped my main tube a little. I haven't tried to fit the engine yet.

Now I need to prime and paint the rocket and make the 29mm-24mm reducer. I'll use D engines for small field work and an elementary schoo demonstration.

Thanks for the friendly and fast replies. Since this is my first rocket, I'm sure that I'll have many more questions in the future. :D
 
When heating a body, stick something inside it to prevent if from deforming when warm. I've used couplers but spent engine casings would probably do a better job being thicker.
 
I find when I heat a body, that yellow onions and some salt and pepper along with a touch sage on the inside really bring out the flavors.:D:rolleyes:

Now if your talking body tube(BT)thats a different carcass all together!:eek::confused:

Just playing with ya!
 
ScrapDaddy said:
Gillard, this Is a special type of epoxy, epoxy clay, not the semi-liquid epoxy that you have to mix in containers. Well,first things first, why did you use epoxy? On Wood-paper bonds, wood glue is the best, if you use it correctly, the meterial will break before the joint will give. Well to remove the stuff, take A little bit of warn water and rub the fillet a little bit, it will sofen the epoxy, then use a heat gun, and that will finish the job.
Click to expand...

First, he used it for that, because Apogee markets the epoxy clay for fillets. It works for it, but it's not my first choice.

Second, water won't do squat to cured epoxy.

A heat gun is the right answer, but it's not going to be easy with epoxy clay.

A better answer, for the clay, is to remove most of it with a Dremel (mask & goggles should be worn), then for the last bit, use a heat gun and a scraper.

-Kevin
 
ScrapDaddy said:
Gillard, this Is a special type of epoxy, epoxy clay, not the semi-liquid epoxy that you have to mix in containers. Well,first things first, why did you use epoxy? On Wood-paper bonds, wood glue is the best, if you use it correctly, the meterial will break before the joint will give. Well to remove the stuff, take A little bit of warn water and rub the fillet a little bit, it will sofen the epoxy, then use a heat gun, and that will finish the job.
Click to expand...

???? I (gillard) am not the poster, so i can not answer why I used the epoxy because i didn't, TZ250 did.
but the advice you gave is wrong, i'm just guessing here, but i reckon that you have never removed epoxy with warm water before. if you have, then i'd love to know how you did it , if you haven't, stop giving out incorrect advice.
 
Gillard said:
???? I (gillard) am not the poster, so i can not answer why I used the epoxy because i didn't, TZ250 did.
but the advice you gave is wrong, i'm just guessing here, but i reckon that you have never removed epoxy with warm water before. if you have, then i'd love to know how you did it , if you haven't, stop giving out incorrect advice.
Click to expand...

I have used this method before, when I realized my fins were misaligned on my machbuster, it was about 3-4 later, and warm water seemed to work fine, apogee said it would dry at about 2 hours..... Well anyway, my method worked just fine, but sorry it wasn't any help to you. :eek:
 
ScrapDaddy said:
I have used this method before, when I realized my fins were misaligned on my machbuster, it was about 3-4 later, and warm water seemed to work fine, apogee said it would dry at about 2 hours..... Well anyway, my method worked just fine, but sorry it wasn't any help to you. :eek:
Click to expand...

If you were able to use water to remove it 3 to 4 hours after mixing the epoxy, then you didn't mix it properly -- either not thoroughly mixed, or the wrong ratio.

-Kevin
 

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