Apogee Level-2 Fiberglass Kit

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Anthony Bean

Anthony Bean

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I built an Apogee Components Level-2 kit. It flies on a 54mm motor and is a very beautiful rocket and it flies awesome. Apogee has a series of videos on the construction of this rocket but it is really pretty self explanatory. There's nothing unusual about this kit other than it flies very well. It can be recovered in single or dual deployment mode. I do recommend dual deployment as you can loft this rocket quite high. It's first flight was on a CTI K261 Long Burn. It had a beautiful slow take off and climb out. Hit 6000 AGL. I'll just add a few photos of my rocket for your review.

miss_behavin_parts.jpgmiss_behavin_primed.jpgmiss_behavin_tail.jpgmiss_behavin_ebay.jpgmiss_behavin_nose_art.jpgmiss_behavin_nose_cone.jpgMiss_Behavin.jpg
 
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Looks really nice! Describe the key/button for the electronics setup? I'm curious as to where you got those and exactly how you have your altimeter bay configured.
 
Congratulations on your L2 build, I like the paint scheme, very good looking rocket and flight photo.
 
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JMIGHT, see the below photos for the internal configuration. Really nothing special. I used an external key switch for arming. What looks like a button is actually a high intensity LED with a resistor to visually indicate the armed condition. I had the key in the switch with a REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT tag hanging off of the key. The key switch locks in place in the armed condition when the key is removed until the key is reinserted and disarmed.

Ken, the name and image on the rocket were created from an idea of using WWII bomber nose art on my sport rockets. Allison Dayne is an actress we use often in political videos for my real job. I paid her to take about 500 shots of her in various outfits and poses. I'm really looking for that nose art look. The name was just something I came up with while thinking about what to call it. Since it was not recovered until the next day I suppose I should have named it "Ain't Miss Behaving'" for a better outcome.

miss_behavin_electronics.jpgmiss_behavin_electronics_external.jpg

[video=youtube;Ui9Mp8n0uzo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui9Mp8n0uzo[/video]
 
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Thanks for posting. :)

I have one of these in the box that I'm upgrading to 75mm. I'm curious what weight yours turned out as? I noticed the RS file was overridden to 80oz, and when I turn that off, I get 173oz. The only real difference I've made to the file is upgrading to an 18" long 75mm MMT, 3 CRs, and added an Aeropack tailcone retainer. Kind of makes the included main 'chute too small. I'm waiting on my BS sale stuff from Wildman which has the new MMT in it so I can get started on weighing everything out properly and see why there's such a big discrepancy between weights.

Oh yeah, I'm adding the tag ACL2R so this thread can be found in searches. The words Apogee, Level-2, Rocket, etc kind of get lost in the noise around here. This kit has the worst rocket name ever. ;)
 
it seems like it was around 15lbs loaded. all my documents are packed as I ammoving to new house so I cannot give you specifics at the moment.
 
Wow, you keep your dongle inside the rocket?
:confused:
FrothyChimp said:
JMIGHT, see the below photos for the internal configuration. Really nothing special. I used an external key switch for arming. What looks like a button is actually a high intensity LED with a resistor to visually indicate the armed condition. I had the key in the switch with a REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT tag hanging off of the key. The key switch locks in place in the armed condition when the key is removed until the key is reinserted and disarmed.

Ken, the name and image on the rocket were created from an idea of using WWII bomber nose art on my sport rockets. Allison Dayne is an actress we use often in political videos for my real job. I paid her to take about 500 shots of her in various outfits and poses. I'm really looking for that nose art look. The name was just something I came up with while thinking about what to call it. Since it was not recovered until the next day I suppose I should have named it "Ain't Miss Behaving'" for a better outcome.

View attachment 159140View attachment 159141

[video=youtube;Ui9Mp8n0uzo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui9Mp8n0uzo[/video]
Click to expand...
 
FrothyChimp said:
it seems like it was around 15lbs loaded. all my documents are packed as I ammoving to new house so I cannot give you specifics at the moment.
Click to expand...

Did you ever weight it unloaded and loaded? I'm looking at this kit. Apogee's specs say "Weight: 126.00 oz (3572.04 g)", 7.9 lbs, but don't state if that's loaded or not.
 
It is a nice kit and you did an exceptional job on building it. The video's are helpful even though its straight forward it's nice that Apogee offers this for those who never built a DD rocket. Again great work on the build!!
 
kevinkal said:
Did you ever weight it unloaded and loaded? I'm looking at this kit. Apogee's specs say "Weight: 126.00 oz (3572.04 g)", 7.9 lbs, but don't state if that's loaded or not.
Click to expand...

samb said:
Another great TRF thread resusitation. *FrothyChimp*do*you*read*over*
Click to expand...

Perhaps someone else experienced with the Apogee/Madcow Level2 Kit could share their their final weight with and/or without motor. There's a fresh thread for this kit by kcobbva so I do have one data point other than that listed on the Apogeee website.
 
kevinkal said:
Did you ever weight it unloaded and loaded? I'm looking at this kit. Apogee's specs say "Weight: 126.00 oz (3572.04 g)", 7.9 lbs, but don't state if that's loaded or not.
Click to expand...

The weight of the Level-2 kit is somewhere around 14 or 15 pounds loaded with a CTI 4grain motor. Mine weighed about 9.5 pounds without a motor. But I also added a longer nosecone (making the rocket an even 6') and built it to survive a fall from 10,000'.
 
Have to agree here! excellent L2 rocket. very sturdy! I had to use a smaller J due to wind conditions; but look forward to putting a K in it!!
 
Thanks for the info.
One thing I need to figure out is how to mount the motor tube relative to the body tube. I've ordered just the flat aero pack 54mm retainer. Should I recess it into the body tube/fin can a bit to protect the retainer/motor tube, or should I just mount the motor tube flush and allow the motor retainer to protrude and handle some landing impact?
 
kevinkal said:
Thanks for the info.
One thing I need to figure out is how to mount the motor tube relative to the body tube. I've ordered just the flat aero pack 54mm retainer. Should I recess it into the body tube/fin can a bit to protect the retainer/motor tube, or should I just mount the motor tube flush and allow the motor retainer to protrude and handle some landing impact?
Click to expand...

Kevin - Mine is flush. I did NOT mount the lower CR initially. Mark the upper where you need it and glue it to the MMT. Then mark where you want it in the body tube. SAND that area down inside the body tube (I'm assuming you did this where the CR is glued (Epoxy -mind you) to the mmt. Put epoxy down where the upper CR will meet and then push the MMT into the body with the Lower CR in place, but NOT glued. Before you do this...make sure you have a way of removing that lower CR. I used gaffers tape which proved strong enough to remove it once slightly inserted. You just want it in enough to ensure the MMT is centered with the body tube. Once the upper Epoxy has FULLY cured on the upper CR and body tube, remove the lower CR. Now when you put your fins on, you'll have easy access to create internal fillets on the MMT and Fins. SO MUCH BETTER than the buttering technique. I did that on the L1 and found that I have a fin loose upon recovery after a hard hit on the same day I did my L2. I used Fix-it epoxy for the fillets...never again. Once your internal fillets are in; then install your Rail button equipment (eg. you don't need to cut way the CR as shown in the apogee video), then seal up the rear CR -leaving enough room for your motor retension. I used Aeropack 54 for that so I marked where it fit first, then ensured the rear CR was ABOVE that mark. I'll also tell you if you have that, plan to sand. I sanded like a mad man for a few days to get the Aeropack to fit on the MMT.
Hope that helps.
 
Kevin,

Your reply is spot on with some concerns I'm brewing. I saw Tim's video where he actually used a dremmel with a small drum to sand the tubes... this seemed like overkill to me.
After reviewing your thread, I decided to purchase 2 pints of rocketpoxy, but also the fix-it poxy just in case I need it for something such as smoothing the lip of the well-nut behind a rail mount. I'll take your advise and not use it on the fillets. I took a close look at your pictures of the fin-can-in-progress. Did you use rocketpoxy for everything, just with different tints? ie.. no tint, black tint and yellow tint but all the same rocketpoxy? It seems there's a different tone of epoxy between your CR and MMT, vs Fillets etc.
My kit is supposed to arrive Friday... I'm looking forward to it. I also ordered two Stratologger CF's and one Eggtimer Quantum.
Back to my orginal question.. so you mounted your motor tube flush. Good to know... I'm thinking that I'll do the same.
Regarding sanding the MMT for the aeropack retainer.. did you buy the 54mm "P" model or the "L" model? I'm not sure what the differences actually are between those.. but I was a little worried when I orderd.. and just went with the version that said it was for Madcow Fiberglass kits... I think that was the "P" model. But Tim did have to grind the MMT with a dremmel. Seems a bit much for something that was designed for this MMT. "Aero Pack 54mm Retainer - P, Part Number (PN): 24067 Retainer Set - Fits 54mm tubes with an 2.278 OD: PML and Giant Leap phenolic, Madcow fiberglass, Performance Rocketry and Hawk Mountain fiberglass"


Kevin K.
 
kevinkal said:
Kevin,

Your reply is spot on with some concerns I'm brewing. I saw Tim's video where he actually used a dremmel with a small drum to sand the tubes... this seemed like overkill to me.
After reviewing your thread, I decided to purchase 2 pints of rocketpoxy, but also the fix-it poxy just in case I need it for something such as smoothing the lip of the well-nut behind a rail mount. I'll take your advise and not use it on the fillets. I took a close look at your pictures of the fin-can-in-progress. Did you use rocketpoxy for everything, just with different tints? ie.. no tint, black tint and yellow tint but all the same rocketpoxy? It seems there's a different tone of epoxy between your CR and MMT, vs Fillets etc.
My kit is supposed to arrive Friday... I'm looking forward to it. I also ordered two Stratologger CF's and one Eggtimer Quantum.
Back to my orginal question.. so you mounted your motor tube flush. Good to know... I'm thinking that I'll do the same.
Regarding sanding the MMT for the aeropack retainer.. did you buy the 54mm "P" model or the "L" model? I'm not sure what the differences actually are between those.. but I was a little worried when I orderd.. and just went with the version that said it was for Madcow Fiberglass kits... I think that was the "P" model. But Tim did have to grind the MMT with a dremmel. Seems a bit much for something that was designed for this MMT. "Aero Pack 54mm Retainer - P, Part Number (PN): 24067 Retainer Set - Fits 54mm tubes with an 2.278 OD: PML and Giant Leap phenolic, Madcow fiberglass, Performance Rocketry and Hawk Mountain fiberglass"


Kevin K.
Click to expand...

Kevin. Pretty sure it was the P model. Apogee states which on matches madcow. You are right on for the use of fix -it. Also when building up a ridge in the nosecone to bury the bulkhead up against - then RP on the outer fillet.

As for the internal and external fin fillets - always rocketpoxy from now on.
 
Aero Pack lists each of their retainer parts and the O.D. of the motor tube they fit here: https://www.aeropack.net/webstore/partnumbers.asp

24L = 0.976”
24L2 = 1.000”
24P = 1.045”
29L = 1.215”
29L2 = 1.225”
29L3 = 1.255"
29P = 1.270”
38L = 1.630”
38L2 = 1.602"
38P = 1.650”
54L = 2.265”
54P = 2.278”
75L = 3.180”
75P = 3.125”

I believe that the 'P' and 'L' designation originated back in the day when LOC cardboard and PML phenolic were your choices for high power motor tubes.
 
Missed the coloration piece. Some late at night..oops forgot the tint. All RP- except the retainer. Use jb weld on your retainer to MMT tube
 
samb said:
Aero Pack lists each of their retainer parts and the O.D. of the motor tube they fit here: https://www.aeropack.net/webstore/partnumbers.asp

24L = 0.976”
24L2 = 1.000”
24P = 1.045”
29L = 1.215”
29L2 = 1.225”
29L3 = 1.255"
29P = 1.270”
38L = 1.630”
38L2 = 1.602"
38P = 1.650”
54L = 2.265”
54P = 2.278”
75L = 3.180”
75P = 3.125”

I believe that the 'P' and 'L' designation originated back in the day when LOC cardboard and PML phenolic were your choices for high power motor tubes.
Click to expand...

That explains where the letters came from. Thank you.
 
kcobbva said:
Kevin. Pretty sure it was the P model. Apogee states which on matches madcow. You are right on for the use of fix -it. Also when building up a ridge in the nosecone to bury the bulkhead up against - then RP on the outer fillet.

As for the internal and external fin fillets - always rocketpoxy from now on.
Click to expand...

kcobbva said:
Missed the coloration piece. Some late at night..oops forgot the tint. All RP- except the retainer. Use jb weld on your retainer to MMT tube
Click to expand...


Thanks. There's something about slow cure epoxy correlating with late nights. I think to myself "just one more fillet after this one sets up", and then 4 hours go by.
 

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