Estes Argent Dual Deploy - build thread

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Fin Fillets

Part 3

(Cont.)

IMG_Argent_061.JPG

10. Remove tape within an hour and inspect and clean

You don't want to wait too long to remove the tape or it will be a mess. Clean up messy areas with paper towel soaked in alcohol.
IMG_Argent_062.jpgIMG_Argent_063.jpg

11. Cure overnight


12. Repeat steps 4-9
IMG_Argent_073.jpg

13. Repeat step 10
Should be more filled in after the second application.
IMG_Argent_075.jpgIMG_Argent_077.jpgIMG_Argent__078.jpg

14. Let cure overnight

15. Sand with 180 grit sanding dowel
I used a long sanding dowel, so care must be taken not to carve a rut in the body tube. I worked the dowel around the leading and trailing edges the same way as with smoothing the epoxy pudding from step 9.
IMG_Argent__081.jpg

16. Apply Bondo Spot and Glazing Putty to fill in the low spots and the edges of the fillet
This stuff sands easily enough so no need to tape it off.
IMG_Argent__082.jpg

17. Sand with 320 grit sanding dowel
Same technique as before.
IMG_Argent__085.jpg

Gotta be joking. What's up with the picture limit per post? What a pain. Stand by for part 4.
 
Fin Fillets

Part 4

(Cont.)

IMG_Argent__087.jpg

Notice the filled in low spots here and in last picture of part 3 of this post.

18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 as needed.
 
Attaching Eye Bolt to Nose

Parts:

  • Argent Nose
Tools/Supplies
  • 1/4" Eye Bolt
  • 3/8" drill bit
  • Dremel with sanding drum
  • Loctite 5 minute epoxy
  • Large flat blade screwdriver
  • Agile pinky finger

1. Drill hole in the shoulder and bore out with dremel until large enough to pass eye bolt nut through
I used the 1/2" drill bit initially and opened it up a bit with the dremel.

2. Pass nut through hole and thread it onto the eye bolt
The inside surface wasn't flat enough for a washer, but in order to seat the bolt along the nose axis I needed a washer between the eye bolt and the shoulder. Getting the nut onto the thread was an exercise in pinky contortion. Once on, I inserted a large flat blade screwdriver head to hold the nut and screwed on the eye bolt.

3. Apply a good bit of 5 minute epoxy inside the nose.
Basically just pooled it in. Also put a little around the washer.

IMG_Argent__100.jpg
 
Drilling Holes

Parts

  • Nose
  • Upper and lower body tube
  • AV bay
Tools/Supplies

1. Secure nose into upper body tube with tape, mark and drill three holes where the shoulder is and symmetrically around the circumference
For convenience I made a single witness mark inside the body tube to align with the nipple on the nose. I also positioned the holes to correspond to a black stripe in the paint scheme to hide the pins. I added a bit of thin CA to the body tube holes and drilled again. It's not really important where or how many shear pins you use, but using a single pin can apparently cause the nose to jamb upon ejection because of the unbalanced forces due to the single pin. Therefore, at least two pins is recommended.
IMG_Argent__102.jpg

2. Use 2-56 tap on holes and test fit with nylon shear screws
For those that don't know what a tap is, it makes threads in a properly sized hole so that a screw may be installed.
IMG_Argent__103.jpg
This is what the shear pins look like (from apogee website).
Shear_pins.jpg

3. Secure the AV bay to the upper and lower body tubes, mark and drill three holes with a 5/32" drill bit in the upper and lower sections of the AV bay through the body tubes
It's a good idea to make witness marks on both tubes and the AV bay upper and lower section because no matter how hard you try, you won't get those holes uniform around the body tube. The location of these holes is really dependent upon missing the internal components of the AV bay. The rivets, shown below, will protrude into the AV bay and should be situated to not interfere with the insertion of the sled. I also took into account my paint scheme, which will employ a 3/4" black stripe on each side of the AV bay. By placing the rivets in the center of the stripes, the rivets will be hidden.
IMG_Argent__096.jpg

4. Drill three vent holes in the AV bay aft and off center of the rivet holes
IMG_Argent__098.jpg

5. Apply CA to all holes drilled and sand with 150 grit sandpaper
Applied the CA to both the body tube holes and the AV bay holes. It took several iterations of CA/sanding.
IMG_Argent__104.jpgIMG_Argent__105.jpg

6. Test fit the rivets
For those that don't know, here are what the plastic rivets look like (from apogee website).
View attachment 151532

You press the bottom portion into the holes and then press the top pin into that fitting. To remove, pull out the plastic pin and push out the rivet body. Since these go into the AV bay and there is no way to push them out, I used needle nose pliers to pull the rivet seat out.
 
I've recently taken to using aluminum all-thread. My 3" Performance Rocketry Intimidator 3 (a 12# rocket when loaded) uses 2x 10-32 aluminum pieces of all-thread on its altimeter bay. These have flown twice now without any evidence of any issues.
I don't remember where, but I thought I saw a build thread with carbon fiber all thread. Aluminum sounds like a great idea. I just grabbed what I could find at the local hardware store. Wish I would have shopped around a bit.
 
I don't remember where, but I thought I saw a build thread with carbon fiber all thread. Aluminum sounds like a great idea. I just grabbed what I could find at the local hardware store. Wish I would have shopped around a bit.

McMaster-Carr. Order by 3pm and have your items the next day. Incredible website! All nuts, bolts, shear pins, rivets, washers, snap rings, fiberglass tubing (for sleds), eyebolts, eye nuts...you name it!
 
McMaster-Carr. Order by 3pm and have your items the next day. Incredible website! All nuts, bolts, shear pins, rivets, washers, snap rings, fiberglass tubing (for sleds), eyebolts, eye nuts...you name it!

Thanks, I'll check that out.
 
Priming

Parts

  • Rocket
Tools/Supplies
  • HPLV gun
  • Air Compressor
  • Duplicolor Paint Shop Primer
  • Toothpicks
  • Shear pins
  • Plastic rivets
  • Masking tape
  • 320 grit sandpaper
  • 600 grit sandpaper

1. Plug all the holes
I used toothpick pieces for the vent holes and native fasteners for the rest.

IMG_Argent__108.jpgIMG_Argent__109.jpg

2. Load up the primer
I use Duplicolor paint shop brand. Lacquers are easy to apply. Humidity can cause blushing, but aside from that their really easy to use. They also look really great. They don't have the durability of an enamel or urethane but people love to put it on their show cars because of the look. I look at rockets like show cars. You don't fly them everyday and they don't sit out in the sun--unless you lose it or land it in a tree. The other nice thing about lacquers is they are cheap. A gallon of PGP 2K urethane primer probably runs over $200. Duplicolor lacquer is at least a two thirds cheaper.

IMG_Argent__113.jpg

3. Apply several coats back to back
Since it takes about five minutes per coat you can apply back-to-back coats. I think I did three coats. It is best to start with a light coat and progressively get heavier.
IMG_Argent__118.jpg

4. Repeat 2-3 until surface is smooth and blemish free
After the first set of coats, imperfections will be revealed. I think I had to put a little more spot and glazing putty in the fillets due to sanding lines. Also, after the first coats, I sanded a lot of it off as I was trying to disappear the tube spirals. 320 grit sandpaper worked well for this.

5. Finish with wetsanding with 600-800 grit sandpaper
 
Painting

Part 1

Parts
  • Primed rocket
  • rail buttons
  • tube coupler
Tools/Supplies
  • HPLV gun
  • Air compressor
  • Lacquer thinner
  • Duplicolor Championship White lacquer paint
  • Duplicolor Burnt Orange lacquer paint
  • Duplicolor Jet Black lacquer paint
  • Duplicolor Gloss Clear Coat Enamel (rattle can)
  • 3/4" Masking tape
  • 1/4" pinstripe
  • Trash bags
  • Mask with organics filter (Harbor Freight)

The complete paint system
IMG_Argent__112.jpg

1. Paint everything Championship White
IMG_Argent__133.jpg

2. Paint nose and AV bay Burnt Orange and one 6" long stipe on one side of the lower body tube
IMG_Argent_160.JPG

3. Attach tube coupler to lower body tube on same side as the Burnt Orange stripe

4. Mask off fin tips and paint Burnt Orange
The paint line was masked with pinstriping with masking tape on top of that and then a bag is taped over the rest.
IMG_Argent_163.jpg

5. Mask off and paint Jet Black stipe on two of the fins, leaving the fin opposite the rail buttons out
I used the 1/4" pinstripe to space the stipe from the burnt orange tip. Then used the same procedure to tape off as in 3. I used 3/4" masking tape to set the width of the stripe.
IMG_Argent_161.jpgIMG_Argent_162.jpg

6. Mask off upper body tube and paint Jet Black stripes 1/4" from top and bottom and one black stripe on fin can 1/4" from the top
IMG_Argent_165.jpgIMG_Argent_166.jpgIMG_Argent_168.jpg
 
Painting

Part 2


7. Clear coat everything
I used instructions on the can: light coat, wait ten minutes, medium coat, wait ten minutes, heavy coat.
IMG_Argent_172.jpg

8. Attach rail buttons
Since I forgot to put on launch lugs. One rail button on the fin can and another on the lower body tube. No need to align anything since you can rotate the upper section of the rocket.

The finished product after a few days of drying
IMG_Argent_202.jpg
 
This build of yours has turned out pretty slick. Question; have you had any issues with warpage of wood using the water based Polycrylic? I have some on hand and may give it a go. I am currently using a lacqeur to seal my bulkheads on my avionics, prior to painting.

Your rocket turned out great, looking forward to a launch report.
 
This build of yours has turned out pretty slick. Question; have you had any issues with warpage of wood using the water based Polycrylic? I have some on hand and may give it a go. I am currently using a lacqeur to seal my bulkheads on my avionics, prior to painting.

Your rocket turned out great, looking forward to a launch report.
I avoid warpage in the same way you do it with balsa fins and thinned Fill-N-Finish, coat both sides at the same time.
 
Launch Preparation

NOTE: I am way behind on posting this thread (been busy building my L1 rocket). The next two posts will bring up to speed and I intend to refly this weekend.

Parts
  • AV Bay
  • Entacore AIM USB altimeter
  • 18 inch drogue chute
  • 25 inch main chute
  • 2 12' sections of 900 lb test kevlar line and 1/8" quick releases
  • 18" Nomex chute protector
  • A lot of recovery wadding
Tools/Supplies
  • #FFFF Goex black powder
  • Quest Q2G2 igniters
  • 2-56 nylon shear pins
  • plastic rivets

1. Set deployment altitudes using the AIM USB software via a miniusb cable and close the AV bay
IMG_Argent_177.JPGIMG_Argent_178.jpg

aim-usb-2.00-capture.gifaim-usb-2.00-settings.gif

2. Pack chutes and install nylon shear pins and plastic rivets
I wanted to fly this the day after I put on the clear coat, hence the cloudiness on the paint. I had some smaller Nomex on order but they hadn't come in yet so I used lots of recovery wadding in the small upper tube for the main chute (25") and the 18" Nomex I had in the drogue in the aft body tube.
IMG_Argent_183.jpg

3. Place the powder in the charge wells
Probably should have done this on the field. My scale was not good enough to weigh out the 1g and 1.5 grams of powder I needed so I used the 1cc=1gram rule to rough it. I will go over my charge procedure in a later post. And no, I decided to launch without a ground test because of time constraints.
IMG_Argent_187.jpg
 
Maiden Flight

The flight went well. Flew it on a G-80. Apogee was almost 1000'. Both chutes deployed, though the main was overly energetic which caused some elongation in the AV bay holes where the plastic rivets are. The rivets almost sheared. I am going to try and fly again this weekend (Nov 9, 2013) and will do some charge tests tomorrow now that I have my smaller Nomex pieces.

IMG_Argent_152.jpg
takeoff.jpgdeployment.jpg

telemetry.jpg


Here's a video of the flight (https://vimeo.com/77318179)

[video=vimeo;77318179]https://vimeo.com/77318179[/video]
 
Second Flight: Catastrophe

This really sucks! I took the Argent out for its second flight. Spent the whole day preparing the rocket. It was fairly cold and it took a lot longer than it should have. After a successful ground test of the main chute I was ready to prep for flight--needed a new chute, since it had been scorched during the ground test.

Ground test results
Just enough charge to fully extend the shock cord. The shock cord is ~10' of 900 lb test Kevlar, shorted in the center with 6' of elastic. This is not the usual arrangement where the two are coupled directly. If the elastic breaks, there is still a solid section of kevlar (See below).
ground test1.jpgground test2.jpg

The elastic caused the recoil on the nose. So what you see above from left to right is parachute, Nose, Nomex, rocket.

Shock Cord
Shock Cord.jpg
Flight

flight.jpg

Flight Data
chart_1 (4).png
Notice, no change in slope after Main chute charge well fires. I also visually confirmed the well fired in the post mortem.

Aftermath

Both charge wells and ematches fired, but the main chute (upper section) did not deploy. I can only guess that the nomex parachute protector, in which the chute and elastic portion of the shock cord were attached, was too tight in the tube despite that it deployed fine during the ground test.
IMG_Berwick_008.jpgIMG_Berwick_010.jpg

The fin was dangling so I finished the job and pulled it the rest of the way off. Clearly the fin itself was the weak point.
IMG_Berwick_014.jpgIMG_Berwick_015.jpg

The upper body tube buckled along the tube spiral in the center. The nose, to which this tube was still attached, took a two inch core sample. The nose was fine after wiping away the dirt. The component that impacted was nose-upper BT-AV bay and the AV bay ways almost 500 grams, so I think it was just the weight of the AV bay upon impact that buckled the tube.
IMG_Berwick_017.jpg

Unfortunately my video tracking was off and the rocket is out of frame during the important parts of the flight, also I was distracted anticipating the main chute deployment that never occurred. The video does contain a segment on the trip to Berwick as well as the launch finale, which is the launch of a 16 pound pumpkin on a J motor.

[video=vimeo;79014565]https://vimeo.com/79014565[/video]

Where to go from here

Upper body tube
I have a few extra 2" body tubes, so replacement would be easy. Also, I think I will make the upper section at least 6 inches longer so that the laundry (24" chute, shock cord, 9" nomex cloth) is not so tight in there. As it is now, there is no free space at all. The nose has to be forced on (compressing the laundry). I think this is the culprit. I will reuse the lower portion of this tube and combine with another new section via a tube coupler, which I already have on hand.

Fin Can Replace Option
On this one I am divided. I have an extra 2.5" body tube and tube couplers but would have to buy a new motor tube, fins, and centering rings. Or I could make the latter two. I have plenty of 1/4" birch plywood. If I did rebuild it, I might want to put fiberglass in the fillets or maybe even do a tip-to-tip glassing on the fins since they are obviously the weak link. Just not sure. Input here is appreciated! According to the flight data, the rocket was coming in at 30 mph and when it hit the ground, the acceleration was somewhere between 3/4 g and 2.2 g's. Is it reasonable to expect the fins to snap in this case?

Fin Can Repair Option
I am not sure how I would proceed with a straight repair. I guess I could cut out the fin inside the body tube with a dremel and buy a new set of fins and use just one. I could also try and reattach the damaged fin with epoxy. Maybe implant some metal rods (clothes hangers) for rigidity?

At this point, I would appreciate any advice you may have. I understand that some of you may advocate a complete rebuild, but I'd like to try and salvage what I have here. I have little experience in major rocket repair, so I look at this as a learning opportunity (or teaching moment in the present vernacular).
 
Sorry about that last flight. Regardless, I have to say that this is one of the best build threads I have ever read on TRF. Thank you for posing all this.


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
Sorry about that last flight. Regardless, I have to say that this is one of the best build threads I have ever read on TRF. Thank you for posing all this.


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

Thanks for your comment. I really like this rocket. I am planning (tentatively) a high power fiberglass version of this, but it will be awhile before I get a chance to work on it.
 
I just couldn't look at the wreckage any longer, so I set out to repair the Argent.

First order of business, the broken fin:
There are a couple options here, but I went for the least labor intensive fix and am hoping for the best.

IMG_044.jpgIMG_045.jpgIMG_049.jpgIMG_059.jpgIMG_066.jpg

I started by masking off the area and cleaning up with a dremel and a sanding drum. Followed that with some coarse grit sandpaper. Next I wetted the the fin and the body tube with slow epoxy. Since I didn't remove the fin tab, I laid down a thick bead of epoxy clay and pressed the fin into place until it stood on its own. A little pressing of the epoxy clay and then I laid down a couple of pieces of 6oz fiberglass into the fillet, making sure I got a half inch onto both the body tube and the fin. I then wetted the glass with more epoxy and let it cure overnight. Alignment of the fin was purely visual. I then made up the same epoxy mix for the fillets as before. A little sanding, filling with glazing and spot putty, priming and the fin can was ready for paint. The finished product feels very sturdy.

The buckled 2.5" body tube fix didn't turn out as well:
IMG_044.jpgIMG_048.jpgIMG_064.jpg

I tried to reinforce the buckled tube with some epoxy clay, bondo, prime and paint. The final product has an obvious bend to it. I went ahead and resprayed all the large white portions for consistency. I have another 2.5" BT to replace this with. I might glass it, though, to prevent future damage.

Here is the repaired rocket all-together again. I will make a decision on what to do about the 2.5" tube soon.

IMG_069.jpg
 
Nice job!

I've got a paper DX3 that has become known as the Phoenix for all the times it has had a less than favorable recovery followed by repair repaint.
 

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