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flynfrog

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Just finished the paint last night. It will be going up at Hellfire 17 on a L640DT it sims at 23k I am hoping to clear 20K with it.

Paint is from PPG Vibrance series. The top is a pearl candy burgundy over gold and bottom is gold candy over gold metallic. The middle is black. I plan to use a Raven for deployment and a Telemetrum for tracking.

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The RSO might be a bit hesitant.
At Hellfire our wavier is 10K with windows to 25K. They might be hesitant to put anything up that sims past 20K, especially the Mariah, which has been known to go higher then most people expect. Worst case scenario, you'll have to settle for a smaller motor.
What program are you using for the simulations? OR or RS are usually on the low side when it comes to simulating rockets going supersonic. Rasaero would be much better.
Rocket looks great though, I love the red and gold metalics
Also, with this thing simming past mach 2, what reinforcements did you use? Those 1/16 in G10 fins seem awfully flimsy for a rocket going that fast.

See you at Hellfire.
Alex
 
They are all PPG car paints. a mix of pearls and candies. I kinda botched the clear coat but no one will see it at Mach2
 
Aksrockets said:
The RSO might be a bit hesitant.
At Hellfire our wavier is 10K with windows to 25K. They might be hesitant to put anything up that sims past 20K, especially the Mariah, which has been known to go higher then most people expect. Worst case scenario, you'll have to settle for a smaller motor.
What program are you using for the simulations? OR or RS are usually on the low side when it comes to simulating rockets going supersonic. Rasaero would be much better.
Rocket looks great though, I love the red and gold metalics
Also, with this thing simming past mach 2, what reinforcements did you use? Those 1/16 in G10 fins seem awfully flimsy for a rocket going that fast.

See you at Hellfire.
Alex
Click to expand...


I have simmed it on RAS and OR

The fins have structural fillets and glass over the fillets.
 
Dear Mr. Frog,

Okay, I'm impressed. I can't add anything to that. Is this the newest, block 3 version? Also, a little suggestion to keep such a beautiful bird looking that way, you may wish to coat the Shotgun tube inside and out and any of the wood parts with clear urethane from Miniwax to make it easier to clean up afterwards.

Good luck!

Kent/GLR
 
Still, it is very pretty even with the "botched clear coat".
 
Dragon, Thanks.

Kent I am not sure what block it is. It should be one of the first to have a Piston Deploy it came with Bearman's thread printed with it. I think I have some varnish in the shop ill slick it up a little maybe.

Chuck, I had to stop myself from wet sanding and buffing it.
 
Mr. Frog,

Is the Shotgun tube phenolic or Magnaframe? If it's phenolic, please take the time to coat the interior/exterior of the tube to the best of your ability with thin CA, especially around the opening. Obviously, don't freeze-up the Breadbox.

This will add considerable strength to that area.

Is it possible to do a "work-up" flight on a smaller motor first to work the kinks out? Have you done ejection charge ground tests? In another thread, Mr. Bear discussed using small lengths of straw to hold ejection charges and the amount of BP he uses.

Sorry to be such a worry-wart. I just want you to do well.

Kent/GLR
 
One other request I have is there a ROCK Sim on this rocket. even if i just has a mass object in place of the bread box.
 
Mr. Frog,

Yes, there is a good one and I will have the person who did it for me post it.

Kent/GLR
 
Dear Mr. Frog,

I forgot to mention, on the Block 3 (latest) version, we are using shear pins now into the lower c-ring on the Shotgun tube. Might want to do that as well.

Kent/GLR
 
What size and how many? My launch is coming up on Sat, running out of time I think I will launch it as is. I will say Hi to motor Joe while I am there.
 
flynfrog said:
What size and how many? My launch is coming up on Sat, running out of time I think I will launch it as is. I will say Hi to motor Joe while I am there.
Click to expand...

I agree with Kent on the shear pins flynfrog. You only need 2 and I believe they are 0-80 1/8 Nylon Flat heads. Also dont forget that pressure relief hole. Otherwise the pressure will pop your entire shotgun/breadbox out.
 
Last edited:
flynfrog said:
What size and how many? My launch is coming up on Sat, running out of time I think I will launch it as is. I will say Hi to motor Joe while I am there.
Click to expand...

Flynfrog,

Love the paint job..... Nothing is quite as slick as some good auto paint!

Like a few have suggested and you may be planning to and haven't been clear...... I would just like to suggest that you work out the kinks with a successful flight you can see the whole time. I fly mine low on a 38mm adapter with a H125....... Keeps it below 3k and within view. We all seem to miss something no matter our experience levels ;-) Like Kent said, I have been using plastic straws potted with hot glue for the ejection charge...... Works really well with the chute cannon. Also make sure to ground test each side at least 6 times to see that you have consistent results. I have done 1-2 in the past and never was able to repeat it.... Lol

Just my suggestions........
 
BearMan said:
Flynfrog,

Love the paint job..... Nothing is quite as slick as some good auto paint!

Like a few have suggested and you may be planning to and haven't been clear...... I would just like to suggest that you work out the kinks with a successful flight you can see the whole time. I fly mine low on a 38mm adapter with a H125....... Keeps it below 3k and within view. We all seem to miss something no matter our experience levels ;-) Like Kent said, I have been using plastic straws potted with hot glue for the ejection charge...... Works really well with the chute cannon. Also make sure to ground test each side at least 6 times to see that you have consistent results. I have done 1-2 in the past and never was able to repeat it.... Lol

Just my suggestions........
Click to expand...

Come on BearMan dont discourage him lol. I most agree with you BearMan on being able to see the flight. However every once and awhile I feel like I just want something to shoot up really fast and disappear lol. Good luck on your flight flynfrog. I know you will be able to pull it off. Just be sure you do ground test it first because I do not know how much force is require to break those shear pins with black powder. I am just glad My Mariah 38 flight went all too well even though I didnt do any ground testing.
 
When flying the Mariah on small motors, do you need to put more black powder in to compensate for the larger volume? Or does it have a bulkhead? I ask this because my level 2 rocket's deployment strategy is almost like a Mariah inside a 4" tube.
 
SinfulDarkLord said:
Come on BearMan dont discourage him lol................. I am just glad My Mariah 38 flight went all too well even though I didnt do any ground testing.
Click to expand...

Hahaha...... SDL..... You a funny boy! Just saying..... There is a time and place for everything! Going balls tothe wall should only be with appropriate prep. I know you know that or you would've used something bigger for your first flight. ;-) Shame on you for not ground testing though...... I wouldn't announce that publicly here! LOL
 
CarVac said:
When flying the Mariah on small motors, do you need to put more black powder in to compensate for the larger volume? Or does it have a bulkhead? I ask this because my level 2 rocket's deployment strategy is almost like a Mariah inside a 4" tube.
Click to expand...

Yes...... In theory...... But I would make a plugged motor the length you plan to fly and ground test the apogee charge like that. Of course do this with the upper payload weighted as you would be flying.....
 
My rocket has a bulkhead so motor size doesn't matter. I have done a few ground tests with it If I can come up with some shear pins in time Ill run a few more, got my telemetrum in today who cant resit radio launched charges.
 
So the flight report.

Had a good take off motor was to fast to catch with my camera.

Then......


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The fins held fine so not needed to go full tip to tip glassing the fillets is enough

also UPOL clear coat melts at speed
 
The air frame broke in half long before the chutes had a chance to deploy
 
other lessons learned:

The fins held fine so no T2T is needed just glassing over the fillets

UPOL clear coat melts at speed.
 

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