Clear Coat Application

I mostly use Krylon spray to paint my rockets.

Is there any special clear coat finish I should be using, or is it even necessary?
I'd like to get the shine look.

Any help or options would be appreciated.

RayJay

RayJay said:

I mostly use Krylon spray to paint my rockets.

Is there any special clear coat finish I should be using, or is it even necessary?
I'd like to get the shine look.

Any help or options would be appreciated.

RayJay

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Krylon has a crystal clear acrylic. I've used it, but it isn't as glossy as other products. I often use it on nosecones, in combination with other products. First prime the nosecone, then paint with Krylon, then Krylon acrylic. Then Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. The Krylon acrylic clear seems to protect the Krylon paint from crazing from the Rustoleum Enamel. I've only had it mess up once (today), and only on the color black. The only other difference was I had used a plastic adhesion promoter, which I had never done before. Or will again.

Your other option is Future floor acrylic. It works well. Very glossy.

neond7 said:

Krylon has a crystal clear acrylic. I've used it, but it isn't as glossy as other products. I often use it on nosecones, in combination with other products. First prime the nosecone, then paint with Krylon, then Krylon acrylic. Then Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel. The Krylon acrylic clear seems to protect the Krylon paint from crazing from the Rustoleum Enamel. I've only had it mess up once (today), and only on the color black. The only other difference was I had used a plastic adhesion promoter, which I had never done before. Or will again.

Your other option is Future floor acrylic. It works well. Very glossy.

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OK thanks, I did read that some time back - Future that is, interesting.

Thanks
RayJay

Krylon paints have a history of not playing well with others, or even prior coats of their own brand... my advice, is to do a PAINT TEST and see how it actually works, using the same number of coats and drying times you plan to use on the actual rockets... and the same painting conditions. Follow the instructions on the can EXPLICITLY...

That's why Krulon is my paint of last resort... I'd rather use ANY other brand than Krylon, because it's SO unforgiving... I've heard of folks "doing everything right", following the can instructions to the letter, or even giving it WAY more time than called for to cure, and then applying overcoats (two-tone paint jobs, clears, etc) and STILL having it go crazy and ruin the entire finish of the rocket. Sorry but I don't need paint that is THAT unreliable, not when there are TONS of WAY more reliable paints out there for the same money, or less... Heck 99 cent a can Walmart Colorplace is WAY more reliable of a paint than Krylon... I've never had a problem with it... just wish it came in more than four colors...

Anyway, whatever you use, take your time and if in doubt do a paint test... that's the best advice I can give you...

Good luck on your projects! OL JR

RayJay said:

I mostly use Krylon spray to paint my rockets.

Is there any special clear coat finish I should be using, or is it even necessary?
I'd like to get the shine look.

Any help or options would be appreciated.

RayJay

Click to expand...

I've been using Krylon paints for several years without any problems what so ever, in fact I prefer Krylon. While the Krylon gloss finishes look just fine by themselves, a coat of 'Pledge' with Future Shine (Premium Floor Finish) will give the rocket a 'wet' and shiny looking finish.

if you want to use any setting solutions , future/krylon will not jive.
I use micromark decal solution and it really snugs the decals down nicely when treated.

Regardless of the brand of paint is there a benefit to a coat of clear finish?

Other then cosmetic... No

Try to keep your primer/paint/clear coat all the sane brand as they are tested together... Also like mentioned doa test spray... I use a paper towel/toilet paper role first to see what,is going to happen (if,it is a standard tube rocket) krylon makes a clear coat spray that costs around $5/can...

Reddwarf said:

Regardless of the brand of paint is there a benefit to a coat of clear finish?

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I find it easier to clean off dirt when there is a clear coating. But some clear coats will yellow with age, or get brittle. I had a dark rocket with a Future coating on it get "gooey" when it sat out in the sun at the last launch. Never had that happen before.

Some of the urethane clears are supposed to provide UV protection and won't yellow. I've found them to be less glossy, though.

I'm still trying everything I can get my hands on - a bit of this and a bit of that, trying to find that perfect combination. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose. And it hurts to lose - so many hours invested in a build, and uncooperative paint makes it look like it was build by 3rd graders. I hate painting!!!

I used Valspar paint and Valspar clear on last two builds. The new twist nozzles are annoying, but the paint applied very nicely and didn't run. The paint dries VERY slow - it literally fingerprinted for days. Give the clear a few days as well before handling. Once the paint/clear have cured, they seem to be pretty solid. I'll see how they hold up after the launch on the 15th and see if I will keep using them.

Bubba02STi said:

Other then cosmetic... No

Try to keep your primer/paint/clear coat all the sane brand as they are tested together... Also like mentioned doa test spray... I use a paper towel/toilet paper role first to see what,is going to happen (if,it is a standard tube rocket) krylon makes a clear coat spray that costs around $5/can...

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I used the Krylon clear coat over the Krylon Gloss and really couldn't even tell there was a difference.
I'm going to try the "pledge" idea.

thanks
RayJay

Really there is not any good reason for using a rattle can clear coat on anything. Chemically Clear coats have no pigment platelets to crosslink or interlock as they dry. Because of their chemistry they harden and become brittle very shortly after application. Most (Not all but MOST) Rattle can Clear coats contain 0% UV inhibitors which allow them to yellow badly in very short order. A couple exceptions are Krylon UV Clears #1305 Gloss & 1309 matte. I Still don't use these over an entire model but use them to coat or re-coat Alps or inkjet printed decales or decades old kit decals.
If a higher shine is desired, 1st choice is Pledge with Future and/or an application of Nu-Finish polymer. Either can be recoated without build-up at anytime while actually giving a little protection to the painted surface (and applied decals).

Micromeister said:

If a higher shine is desired, 1st choice is Pledge with Future and/or an application of Nu-Finish polymer. Either can be recoated without build-up at anytime while actually giving a little protection to the painted surface (and applied decals).

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I've never tried the NuFinish, but I'm willing to see if it works. It sure puts a slick coating on my car, and I'll asssume it has some UV protection.

I tried Turtle Ice Shine once - I'll never do that again.....

neond7 said:

I've never tried the NuFinish, but I'm willing to see if it works. It sure puts a slick coating on my car, and I'll asssume it has some UV protection.

I tried Turtle Ice Shine once - I'll never do that again.....

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LOL! I hear ya! I used to use Liquid Turtle wax on all my rockets, before flying...once a month HO Man the hand cramps LOL!!!

Switched to Nu-finish polymer shortly after it was introduced...since it's not a wax the majority of the Trutle wax problems disappeared. When future came along i found it give a bit more protection to the finish, while still using a good coat of two of Nu-finish to help with the hand and transport transfer fowling. Helps protect against Chalk-line & Tempra Paint tracking powder transfer problems as well.

RayJay said:

I used the Krylon clear coat over the Krylon Gloss and really couldn't even tell there was a difference.
I'm going to try the "pledge" idea.

thanks
RayJay

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honestly i wouldn't even use a clear coat over a gloss paint... maybe a sealer... but there really isn't a need for it with the gloss

and a tip for getting rattle can clear coats to properly stick is to spray a light coat on while the base paint is still "sticky"