Blackhawk 29 - Max Altitude?

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CJ in your build instructions it looked like you used 1515 buttons, is that right?

Also, the fins were pretty scratched up when they arrived, how can you get that nice finish back on them?
work?

They were 1010.....not 15's
Are you sure that's not glue residue from the 2 sided tape, instead of scratches? WD-40 will take that off in a jiffy!

Jim, I seem to recall it was the I224 Pro29-6GXL Classic load.

It has a bit more total impulse. Both motors would probably get close to the same altitude.

Jeroen.

I'm sure you are right, my memory is slipping!


Here is a similar set up . We just take the case off the Com-Spec transmitter, wrap it in tape, then tape to shock cord. The tiny pico fit inside a piece of adding machine tape core. Also just taped to the shock cord. Does well for impromptu rapscallions like us!

PS by sanding a bevel on the side of the transmitter [potted epoxy part] it will fit in a 24mm BlackHawk or tube!

Taped the trans. just below the NC so antenna would fit into NC straight. Before anyone asks.....Rocket is carbon...NC is graphite...no problem what so ever...... with signal, this way!

If I were going "for it" with a BH :

Cut fins down [almost to 24mm size]
Cut airframe down
smallest lightest altimeter and blow cone at apogee,
drop it on a streamer or 6-9in chute full of holes.
Tracker
Tower launch.
No finish .....wet sand polish.
Use CTI tailcone

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I've seen a few people using the Garmin trackers designed for hunting dogs for big rockets. Any chance that'll play out and become widespread? Essentially, a club can buy a receiver, then individuals buy the transmitters and just "train" the receiver to the individual devices.

In my club they're common enough that borrowing a receiver wouldn't be a problem. They're a good choice for larger airframes if you don't need accurate GPS altitude. The transmitter is pretty high powered so you have a better chance of getting a signal after landing than you would with most units. Tha also means that you need to keep it away from sensitive electronics and/or be sure to test everything together in the flight configuration.
 
They were 1010.....not 15's
Are you sure that's not glue residue from the 2 sided tape, instead of scratches? WD-40 will take that off in a jiffy!

No there was oodles of glue residue to take off, I used acetone and it just wiped right off.
 
jms.......... clear coat will bring back the gloss. A few light coats, then buff with a 3M Scotch brite pad [or similar] Repeat till ya get that high gloss shine after filling and polishing the scratches.

Some wet sand with 4-600 paper. I just prefer the ease of the pads, fit in the contours better & can wet sand with them also.
 
Thank! I'll post some pictures once she's done.
 
Shockwave NC and CTI tapered closure ordered as well!

And...even at the risk of a little drag (which is precisely what we're trying to reduce!!!) I gotta slap on some Mark Hayes vinyl! NEVER...Fly Naked! :wink:
 
Shockwave NC and CTI tapered closure ordered as well!

And...even at the risk of a little drag (which is precisely what we're trying to reduce!!!) I gotta slap on some Mark Hayes vinyl! NEVER...Fly Naked! :wink:

I would argue that clear coated Carbon is not flying naked!

This kit is screaming for the 29-6G EX cases that I have. I assume if you optimized this thing, rocket and motor, you could easily get over 10k. It would be tough to track and recover here on the East Coast, but I've considered buying one and trying it out.
 
Haha!! Good point Dan :wink: Plan on polishing the CF to a high lustre, but still have a purple chrome vinyl ordered from Mark :D

Got my shockwave NC and my CTI tapered closure. Just kinda waitin' on the Blackhawk itself to arrive.

Anticipation.....anticipay-yah-shun....
 
The first flight I did with my Blackhawk 29 was an I243 with the boat tail. 10400 AGL at mach 1.3. It was DD, chopped down to a total length of 34 inches. Awesome flight. Landed about 3/4 mile away, walked right to it thanks to a borrowed Walston. I have since invested in a beeline transmitter and a HAM license :)
 
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The first flight I did with my Blackhawk 29 was an I243 with the boat tail.
That is a courageous combo, especially for a first flight. One problem though... How are you going to top this for the next flight ? :)

Jeroen
 
That is a courageous combo, especially for a first flight. One problem though... How are you going to top this for the next flight ? :)

Jeroen

He could use a CTI I244 Classic...good for about another 400' altitude :D

Unless of course, you have something lurking in the deep dark corners of the plant that's even MORE potent than the I244 :dark:
 
That is a courageous combo, especially for a first flight. One problem though... How are you going to top this for the next flight ? :)

Jeroen
I think I can shave off an inch or so of length. Also, I wasn't quite at the optimal weight for the I243, so I think the combination of the two should get me a little bit higher. I also have a shockwave nosecone to try out. The other option is just going as high as possible and seeing how fast I can get it to go :D
 
jms.......... clear coat will bring back the gloss. A few light coats, then buff with a 3M Scotch brite pad [or similar] Repeat till ya get that high gloss shine after filling and polishing the scratches.

Some wet sand with 4-600 paper. I just prefer the ease of the pads, fit in the contours better & can wet sand with them also.

Jim,

Do you wet sand prior to applying the clear coat as well? Or just the light coats and buff? At that stage now and wanna do it right :cool2:
 
You must first wet sand or buff pad it first, as in any finishing work.

The tube won't need much as it is ground to tolerance. The plate fins should have the shine removed by sanding.

Many light coats dry faster and are ready to sand, rather than a few heavy ones which take longer to cure.

I do 3-4 light. let dry then 1-2 more,[reduces chance of runs this way] then do my first sanding. This is to fill tiny imperfections to get that mirror finish. I usually have 7-8 coats of clear on one of these....but by the time I'm done sanding and buffing...finished amount probably equals only 2-3. The rest have been sanded down to fill and get that mirror finish
 
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Still some internals to tweak, but I finally have it looking presentable...

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Jeff that looks awesome. I have one more set of fillets to do and I'm ready to start spraying this badboy too. Great job!
 
Thanks Justin, I appreciate it! First CF build, and LOTS of great tips from the TRF crew! :wink:

Probably test on a 1 or 2 grain VMAX, then go for broke at AIRFest on the I224 6XL :eyepop:

Do post yours when finished...nice to see what everyone else is doing!
 
Will do. So did you end up making this DD or just stock?

This was my first time using the Proline epoxy, so getting the fillets just right was a bit of a challenge for me, it's messy stuff!
 
Will do. So did you end up making this DD or just stock?

This was my first time using the Proline epoxy, so getting the fillets just right was a bit of a challenge for me, it's messy stuff!

I ended up doing stock...will place an XLF 6 transmitter in the nose for the big flight as well as using a small 'chute.

Yes, this was my first experience with the Proline as well...weird stuff. CJ told me to "just do 'em all at once", so I mixed the whole batch and got ready to fillet everything. At first, the stuff was kind of runny causing me some concern. But just when I thought I was in big trouble, the stuff began to thicken a bit and I was able to get 'em all pulled OK. I don't think I'd do it that way again (as I am not a Pro fillet puller like Jim...), but it IS possible :-D
 
I really like the H399 White Thunder. Anyone try that in a BH29?

Jeroen

Hey Jeroen! That sims at ~8000' and Mach 1.5....IF I recover it from the 10K attempt, I'll put it up again on the H399WT :grin:

As I haven't flown a WT yet, I may try the H255 or H399 in a new project I just finished along side the BH29.

I also meant to ask you...regarding retaining the CTI case with the cap screws like you forwarded ( post #40 ), would placing those screws directly behind the fins cause any undue issues like weakening the case? By placing them aft, I could have the option of different case lengths to fly...
 
I also meant to ask you...regarding retaining the CTI case with the cap screws like you forwarded ( post #40 ), would placing those screws directly behind the fins cause any undue issues like weakening the case? By placing them aft, I could have the option of different case lengths to fly...
Jeff,
You can only do this between the internal forward o-ring and aft end of the case, i.e. only at the tip of the case.
Jeroen
 
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