MAC Hyper 54 L2 cert build

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Andrew_ASC said:
Good advice. Mind if I ask about how tall said spacers you use are?
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1/8” or so. Mainly high enough so the chips on the bottom are clear of the sled. I put a nylon washer between the screw head and the top of the board as well.
 
The baro sensor on the rrc3 and rrc2+ are on the bottom of the PCB, so whatever standoff you use there needs to be enough room for the baro sensor to accurately read air pressure.

I picked up some nylon standoffs from Grainger 1/4" tall with 4-40 threads.

On the rrc3 the silver rectangle sensor with 2 tiny holes is the baro sensor.

Page 4 in the manual talks about mounting options, and page 6 recommends 20-22awg stranded wire to be used.

~John
 

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if ya mount the RRC3 with 4-40 hardware, simply put 2 nutz on each screw on the bottom between alt.& sled done!

Ps I wrote quick manual that comes with unit.
If ya want stand-offs on the cheap, use the little tube caps that come on many e-matches, just cut to length.
See it down on the wire.

12135988296_f7e35b21b9_b.jpg
 
blackjack2564 said:
if ya mount the RRC3 with 4-40 hardware, simply put 2 nutz on each screw on the bottom between alt.& sled done!
Click to expand...

That works too, but some altimeters have limited clearance to components and track, making the use of an insulating spacer necessary. It depends entirely on the altimeter and the size of hardware you are using.
 
Alright I’m finally back home and unpacked the rockets. Good news about going to work tomorrow is free access to inventor autodesk after hours for a new sled 3D. Bad news is big pharma gonna want their NPB conveyor hand clicked one thousand plus pieces in the shop.

I dunno gimmie a week or so to get all the specific hardware ordered again because I highly doubt I’ll find anything but the R/C fuel line local. Harbor freight don’t even have 4-40 bolts/nuts tap bits. On the flip side my binder design switches finally showed up.
 
Alright ordered some drill and tap sets from apogee for 2-56 and 4-40. Some altimeter stand off posts. Some more 2-56 shear pins. Guess I’ll get the 4-40 local as Jim says... Stuff should be here before Jan. av/Bay is prob gonna take a week for somebody to print and ship it nicely. I just got those tapping sets because I figure this is gonna be the kinda thing that my Lowe’s or HD won’t carry...
 
Andrew_ASC said:
Alright ordered some drill and tap sets from apogee for 2-56 and 4-40. Some altimeter stand off posts. Some more 2-56 shear pins. Guess I’ll get the 4-40 local as Jim says... Stuff should be here before Jan. av/Bay is prob gonna take a week for somebody to print and ship it nicely. I just got those tapping sets because I figure this is gonna be the kinda thing that my Lowe’s or HD won’t carry...
Click to expand...

Andrew, you really need to setup an account with McMaster-Carr. All things hardware can be obtained from said vendor, and they make it (too) easy to order from them. That's where I get all my nylon standoffs, shear fasteners, metal fasteners, threaded rod (just received two 1' pieces of titanium threaded rod for my upcoming L2 attempt), etc. Take a look around and I'm pretty certain you'll find what you need
 
g.pitts said:
Andrew, you really need to setup an account with McMaster-Carr. All things hardware can be obtained from said vendor, and they make it (too) easy to order from them. That's where I get all my nylon standoffs, shear fasteners, metal fasteners, threaded rod (just received two 1' pieces of titanium threaded rod for my upcoming L2 attempt), etc. Take a look around and I'm pretty certain you'll find what you need
Click to expand...

+1 for McMaster-Carr. They even have CAD files of almost every part they carry.
 
g.pitts said:
(just received two 1' pieces of titanium threaded rod for my upcoming L2 attempt)
Click to expand...

+100 on McMaster... One of the best race car/rocket shops on the planet and they don't even realize it...

How much did the titanium set you back, Pitts (If you don't mind my asking)? I'm building a sled for my L2 at the moment too...
 
Mugs914 said:
+100 on McMaster... One of the best race car/rocket shops on the planet and they don't even realize it...

How much did the titanium set you back, Pitts (If you don't mind my asking)? I'm building a sled for my L2 at the moment too...
Click to expand...

They were $36.21 each for the 1' pieces (https://www.mcmaster.com/96095a155). Titanium ain't cheap! I also got matching Ti hardware (aviation style locknuts, standard nuts, washers). I'm an EE, but I worked with mechanical engineers right out of school and they were sticklers about avoiding dissimilar metals. For our applications, it's likely a non-issue, but my purchase of the other Ti hardware was perhaps a Pavlovian response to my teachers from many years ago. :)
 
BC2CE3AF-9832-45B0-9E29-85B59912CE09.jpeg
so I made this crazy bay after work. It was a total bear trying to cram it all on there. I was only able to expand length by 0.5” and width by 0.15”. I also made a blank no holes tray Incase this idea fails lol. Basically I had to recess the Telemini battery into the tray to fit a 9V battery for RRC3 over it!!!
 
Sent the bay over to Xometry for Nylon 12 SLS print. Should be here Jan 6. Going to try to pick up 4-40 hardware locally this weekend.
 
Andrew_ASC said:
Sent the bay over to Xometry for Nylon 12 SLS print. Should be here Jan 6. Going to try to pick up 4-40 hardware locally this weekend.
Click to expand...

Just curious - what was your criteria around material selection? I’m getting close to a final design on my electronics bay sled design and wanted to understand your thinking.
 
I’ve used Nylon 12 SLS in the hobby previously in university and personal HPR projects. This laser sintering crapola out performs some CNC milling machines. It’ll do 1/1000” tolerance so less sanding. Mainly it has higher thermal melt temperature than ABS. We’ve had it in ovens while curing Duralco 4700 at Min activation heat for hours. It’s stiffer and stronger. No material distortion under rated thermal load. Oddly the company Xometry “had no freaking idea” their nylon was RF transparent. So yes it won’t block radio waves we tested it ourselves. We found that out at university during testing nosecones much to our excitement. Oh yeah the grain structure isn’t like layers upon layers of construction as with normal print so it’s less likely to shear down some construction angle lol.

You can get the beads of nylon infused with exotic fiberglass or Carbon fiber even through other vendors for even higher thermal properties and better mechanical material strength values. Some applications I’ve played with were supersonic airfoils that tapered from varying profiles on small scale where the only other machine that could do it would be wire cut EDM. Other universities tried automotive intakes.

Most people on here don’t F*** with a Nylon because your “cheap” SLS printer costs $5k. I just ship my files out and let pros do it with better machines. Never had any issues lol. My opinion it’s superior to ABS, fdm style print in all aspect but costs. And lastly you don’t have to sand so much because the print tolerances are kept tighter. It’ll do far more complex geometry than here.

Sadly this 5.5” tray by 2” by .3” costs $34 so it ain’t exactly cheap. Lotta people will baulk at pricing. Basically it’ll do more stuff than ABS or FDM process ever even dreamed of. And Nylon isn’t best but it’s lots cheaper than a PETK thermoplastic used for like rifle bullet tips.

Mainly I prefer the tighter tolerances. I told my conveyor company about it and they recently bought their own for in house bracket dimension fitting before we start CNC mill aluminum stuff sometimes on super special orders.
 
Andrew_ASC said:
I’ve used Nylon 12 SLS in the hobby previously in university and personal HPR projects. This laser sintering crapola out performs some CNC milling machines. It’ll do 1/1000” tolerance so less sanding. Mainly it has higher thermal melt temperature than ABS. We’ve had it in ovens while curing Duralco 4700 at Min activation heat for hours. It’s stiffer and stronger. No material distortion under rated thermal load. Oddly the company Xometry “had no freaking idea” their nylon was RF transparent. So yes it won’t block radio waves we tested it ourselves. We found that out at university during testing nosecones much to our excitement. Oh yeah the grain structure isn’t like layers upon layers of construction as with normal print so it’s less likely to shear down some construction angle lol.

You can get the beads of nylon infused with exotic fiberglass or Carbon fiber even through other vendors for even higher thermal properties and better mechanical material strength values. Some applications I’ve played with were supersonic airfoils that tapered from varying profiles on small scale where the only other machine that could do it would be wire cut EDM. Other universities tried automotive intakes.

Most people on here don’t F*** with a Nylon because your “cheap” SLS printer costs $5k. I just ship my files out and let pros do it with better machines. Never had any issues lol. My opinion it’s superior to ABS, fdm style print in all aspect but costs. And lastly you don’t have to sand so much because the print tolerances are kept tighter. It’ll do far more complex geometry than here.

Sadly this 5.5” tray by 2” by .3” costs $34 so it ain’t exactly cheap. Lotta people will baulk at pricing. Basically it’ll do more stuff than ABS or FDM process ever even dreamed of. And Nylon isn’t best but it’s lots cheaper than a PETK thermoplastic used for like rifle bullet tips.

Mainly I prefer the tighter tolerances. I told my conveyor company about it and they recently bought their own for in house bracket dimension fitting before we start CNC mill aluminum stuff sometimes on super special orders.
Click to expand...
Thanks! $34 is a lot less expensive than buying even a low-end 3D printer. :D
 
C3D5F3E1-49DD-484E-B449-90E816B39463.jpeg Welp AV bay got here. Only prob was the threaded rods holes were plugged with sintering crap and now I need to print a new part. I undersized the holes a tad too much loooooool.
 
Mailman said:
Try an easyout. How’d the sled get so dirty?
Click to expand...

LOL that’s thermal wear and tear from a thousand some Celsius heat gun... yeah I’m printing a new one. I kept snapping the shaft of the all thread with torque it’s in there so tight.
 

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