Recycling junk into rocket building tools

A month or so ago, I posted in the techniques section about a tube marking and cutting guide I made, but I think it makes more sense here given that it is actual hardware rather than a technique. So that post is here: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/10-diy-tube-marking-and-cutting-guide.154490/

And now, I have another gizmo I've whipped together. I still have yet to go buy some proper woodturning tools, but here is my recycled junk-o nose lathe! This sporty little model is made from 2 pieces (approximately 18 inches long each) of 2x4, a ½" plywood base, another ½" thick panel for a tool rest, a 12v cordless drill that hasn't seen a battery in years, a 16v power supply (intentionally higher voltage because the current limit isn't very high; all the 12v supplies I had wouldn't even turn the drill), some metal straps, angle brackets for the tool rest and a toggle switch.

I was going to include a potentiometer for speed control, but nothing I had laying around was low enough ohms to actually work (all I had would either let the drill run at full speed or not run at all), so I just have the switch and use the gear select on the drill as a speed selector. The wood piece to be turned is held in place with a heavy deck screw that the head has been cut off of and placed in the drill chuck. Seen in this demonstration is a chunk of pine from another scrap 2x4 I had laying around, but this thing could absolutely accommodate balsa or any other kind of wood. I'll bet I could even make use of some solid plastic if I wanted to.

Once I get some tools, I'll try turning a few cones and post the results. Hopefully this will solve some of my problems with scratch builds made from unusual size tubes that no standard cone will fit with. Stay tuned!

Are you going to add a tailstock?

Do you have a good face-shield?

No plans on a tailstock because for one thing, I wouldn't be able to make it line up precisely with the drill if made from scraps in the shed, and secondly, I'm not planning on making anything long enough to need support from the other end. Six or seven inch cones at most. And if I need to make a longer nose cone, I'll make it in sections and stack them after turning.

As for safety, I have an apron and a full-face shield that should stop any bits that come flying off.

An elegant system it is not, and I'm sure it will leave much to be desired as far as quality compared to a proper lathe, but my wallet won't let me get one right now. Maybe I'll upgrade sometime next year if this one proves to be too unwieldy.

ebruce1361 said:

View attachment 393481 View attachment 393484 View attachment 393485 A month or so ago, I posted in the techniques section about a tube marking and cutting guide I made, but I think it makes more sense here given that it is actual hardware rather than a technique. So that post is here: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/10-diy-tube-marking-and-cutting-guide.154490/

And now, I have another gizmo I've whipped together. I still have yet to go buy some proper woodturning tools, but here is my recycled junk-o nose lathe! This sporty little model is made from 2 pieces (approximately 18 inches long each) of 2x4, a ½" plywood base, another ½" thick panel for a tool rest, a 12v cordless drill that hasn't seen a battery in years, a 16v power supply (intentionally higher voltage because the current limit isn't very high; all the 12v supplies I had wouldn't even turn the drill), some metal straps, angle brackets for the tool rest and a toggle switch.

I was going to include a potentiometer for speed control, but nothing I had laying around was low enough ohms to actually work (all I had would either let the drill run at full speed or not run at all), so I just have the switch and use the gear select on the drill as a speed selector. The wood piece to be turned is held in place with a heavy deck screw that the head has been cut off of and placed in the drill chuck. Seen in this demonstration is a chunk of pine from another scrap 2x4 I had laying around, but this thing could absolutely accommodate balsa or any other kind of wood. I'll bet I could even make use of some solid plastic if I wanted to.

Once I get some tools, I'll try turning a few cones and post the results. Hopefully this will solve some of my problems with scratch builds made from unusual size tubes that no standard cone will fit with. Stay tuned!

Click to expand...

Nice, but that screw attachment be totally worthless with balsa, and nearly worthless with pine and other woods. You might try using a T-nut and locking nut, with a long enough screw that will provide enough support and engage with the T-nut.

Alan15578 said:

Nice, but that screw attachment be totally worthless with balsa, and nearly worthless with pine and other woods. You might try using a T-nut and locking nut, with a long enough screw that will provide enough support and engage with the T-nut.

Click to expand...

My concern with balsa is if the T-nut would end up letting go and just spinning a ring into the back of the nose like a spade bit with those little teeth. One idea I have seen (I believe from Apogee Components in Tim's book) is to drill down an inch or two into the balsa block and glue in a hardwood dowel that will become the mandrel as well as a stronger point to attach an eye-screw later (after cutting off the extra of course). However, I think the T-nut might work well with heavier woods, so I'll get some and try it out. My main thinking with the deck screw was that it would offer a good bit of surface area (plus it's one of those rough galvanized ones) to offer a lot of friction inside the wood to prevent it from spinning out.

This is indeed a work in progress, so I appreciate ideas I hadn't thought of!

If you have not built a tool or fixture out of junk, you are not trying hard enough (or you are John Coker).