Applying Monokote or Ultracote Heat Shrink Film to rockets

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Very cool. I was wondering if guys were doing this or not. Coming from a background of building and flying RC planes the last 9 or 10 years, I had thought about using covering film on a build. I may just do this on my next build. I do enjoy painting (I have a small business airbrushing RC car bodies) but using covering film does hide a lot more imperfections and takes almost all the prep-work out of finishing. The finish is also fantastic.

A couple of notes on Monokote vs. Ultracote: Monokote has a shinier finish and is slightly lighter in weight. Granted, even on larger rockets, you won't notice the weight difference, there is one. Ultracote can be slightly more forgiving. It has a slightly more dull finish and doesn't shrink as tight as Monokote, so it may or may not deform a tube as easily.

Current supply on Monokote may be a little low for a bit, as that was part of the Hobbico/Horizon buyout, but many good hobby shops likely still have stock on it and it looks like Horizon did take Top Flite (Monokote is made by Top Flite) in the buyout.

Covering with either one is pretty satisfying. All you need is a decent sealing iron and a heat gun. Both Hangar9 and Top Flite made a good covering mitt, also. Good for smoothing the covering while working with the heat gun.

EDIT: I forgot that there are a couple other films to consider for those who want to do it on thin-walled tubes that might distort easily. Coverite CoverLite is an ultralight heat-shrink covering film that doesn't shrink as much. It can be a bit finicky to work with because of how thin it is, and you have to watch the heat you apply it with, but it is less likely to warp a tube on any small low-power rocket projects.

EDIT 2: Sorry, forgot to mention that both Monokote and Ultracote are available in flat and matte finishes for those going for stealthy/military type finishes.
 
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I just came across this thread and had to show my photos of applied Monokote.

I used Chrome Monokote on my Madcow Twitch because I had been itching to have a mirror finish on one of my rockets. The Twitch is all fiberglass. One thing to note, especially with Chrome Monokote, is that it will show all underlying imperfections. After I had applied the Monokote to the upper half of the airframe, I was not pleased at how the Chrome Monokote reflected due to the fiberglass weave. So, I removed the Monokote -- which adhered quite well to the fiberglass -- and painstakingly spent days wet sanding the entire rocket with 320. The second application of the Chrome Monokote was much more aesthetically pleasing.

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The chrome Monokote is the closest I have found to an actual chrome finish in any kind of covering whether it's tape, film, or paint. However you are right to point out that ANY surface imperfection will show up magnified a hundred times. Very nice job. I salute you!!
 
JoeG said:
The chrome Monokote is the closest I have found to an actual chrome finish in any kind of covering whether it's tape, film, or paint. However you are right to point out that ANY surface imperfection will show up magnified a hundred times. Very nice job. I salute you!!
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The problem now is trying to find chrome Monokote. The Top Flite web site doesn't even list it anymore. My supply is running low, so if anyone knows of a source, please let me know ASAP.
 
Try eBay? I actually have a roll of chrome and a roll of gold. Was afraid to even attempt using it, now I might give 'er a shot. Thanks for the inspiration;)
 
Great job!!! Chromes are a bear, for sure!

I used Hangar 9 Ultracote Chrome fairly recently on planes and rockets. Indeed, surface prep beneath is critical, and the nature of the covering is much more finicky than the standard opaque colors.
 
Yeah, looks like Top Flite has discontinued the regular rolls. I've been trying to get the chrome trim for my hobby shop ever since Hobbico sold out to Horizon Hobby and they list it but it seems to be perpetually out of stock as are many other things Great Planes used to sell.
 
ECayemberg said:
Great job!!! Chromes are a bear, for sure!

I used Hangar 9 Ultracote Chrome fairly recently on planes and rockets. Indeed, surface prep beneath is critical, and the nature of the covering is much more finicky than the standard opaque colors.
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Would a solid color layer make a decent surface prep for the chrome? You've noted that it adheres well to itself.
 
Charles_McG said:
Would a solid color layer make a decent surface prep for the chrome? You've noted that it adheres well to itself.
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Hi Charles,

It may help smooth the surface a tad, but it introduces a really *bad* trait of the films. When you cover over successive layers, air gets trapped, forming bubbles that move around, shrink, bulge, multiply, but never, ever go away!

In other words, short distance overlaps work well, but for covering large surface areas, covering over covering tends to be difficult. The issue is, air has nowhere to go! The same scenario exists where you cover a solid surface, such as fins, sheeted wings, etc. In these cases, I tend to start the iron in the middle of the piece and iron out towards the edges...squeezing the air out.

When applying a different color of covering, or anytime layering, use of the Top Flite Woodpecker (or equivalent helps), because it gives the air somewhere to go. The Woodpecker was created specifically to help negate the trapped air syndrome that heat shrink coverings produce.

So, not saying it wouldn't help, or couldn't be done...but I'd skip the double layer for two reasons. 1. As discussed, the surface beneath shows through the covering...so adding an extra layer probably won't smooth things too much, and most importantly 2. BUBBLES. I avoid large chunks of covering over covering whenever possible. Always overlap seams and pay attention to airflow direction, but avoid big chunks of covering over solid covering surfaces below.

Cheers!
 
Thanks Eric. All good info.

I’m thinking of returning to a partially built Atlas Agena I have. It’s home made 3.44” paper tubing, and not easy to improve the surface without raising fibers. You noted that the coatings cover spirals handily.

On an Atlas, the chrome would be lots of strips - so not one huge area.
 
monokote needs a reasonably smooth surface to look good, plywood sanded smooth with 180 - 220 grit will look nice. 320 grit isn't really needed, basically ready to prime smooth. I've seen Estes tube spirals through chrome(unpainted tube) so a little work to fill will look better (2 or 3 coats of primer sanded smooth) if you thought that primer shows everything...chrome is worse :). a porous surface works best, avoid if you can inside curves, and get an extra pair of hands to apply. while a dry iron can be used...an iron with a Nomex sock should work best to keep the scratches down. like most plastics monokote scratches quite easily when hot(scratch resistant at room temp). I would suggest a fair amount of practice before attempting your atlas w/ chrome.
Rex
 
Rex R said:
monokote needs a reasonably smooth surface to look good, plywood sanded smooth with 180 - 220 grit will look nice. 320 grit isn't really needed, basically ready to prime smooth. I've seen Estes tube spirals through chrome(unpainted tube) so a little work to fill will look better (2 or 3 coats of primer sanded smooth) if you thought that primer shows everything...chrome is worse :). a porous surface works best, avoid if you can inside curves, and get an extra pair of hands to apply. while a dry iron can be used...an iron with a Nomex sock should work best to keep the scratches down. like most plastics monokote scratches quite easily when hot(scratch resistant at room temp). I would suggest a fair amount of practice before attempting your atlas w/ chrome.
Rex
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A filler primer well sanded before Monokote on any paper tube. I've actually painted a gloss white atop the primer and well sanded that to the finest grades before applying Monokote. The smooth final coat makes for very good adhesion of the Monokote.
 
VAXman said:
A filler primer well sanded before Monokote on any paper tube. I've actually painted a gloss white atop the primer and well sanded that to the finest grades before applying Monokote. The smooth final coat makes for very good adhesion of the Monokote.
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I was going to post my MDRM with Monokote but committed the text before attaching the image.20190122_084928.jpeg
 
Wallace said:
How are you avoiding bubbles when going over painted surfaces?
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First thing is to get the Monokote tacked to the surface. I usuallly size the Monokote and then, tightly wrap the tube and tape it in place. Then, from the side opposite the seam, use the iron and tack a line down the tube. Now, allow the iron to cool down and work toward the seam. First to the side that will be the underside of the seam. Never too hot!!! If it's too hot, you risk shrinking the Monokote and then, you'll need to deal with wrinkles. Always pull the iron from the center well-tacked down region toward the seam. Start from the tube ends and work toward the middle. This way, as the Monokote shrinks ever so slightly, the tension will be on the area that has still not been tacked down. It should be drawn taught more and more. An occasional bubble may appear. If so, pull back the Monokote and reseat/reheat. If you find a bubble that can not be released, the point of an X-acto knife, with a new sharp blade, can be used to make a small release point for the trapped air. Work the bubble out from the farthest point from your puncture toward the puncture. If you're careful, you will not see the relief puncture. Once everything has been tacked down, increase the iron heat and repeat. You may need to do this several times. Don't hold the iron in place too long in any repeat ironing treatment. Once you're satisfied, you can turn up the iron. You can also then use the heat gun to shrink the Monokote at the ends. Iron flat as in the videos early in this thread. On my Twitch I've shown, the Monokote was trimmed. On my MDRM, the Monokote edge, about 1/2", was heat affixed on the inside of the body tube at both ends. On the business end, I finished this with a painted ring made from a tube coupler. On the nosecone end, I used some thin CA to insure that the trim stays well affixed. It's thin enough that it does not impede the nosecone.

ALWAYS have a good clean sock on the iron; especially, when applying chrome Monokote. You don't want to see marks on the Monokote (tiny scratches like you might see in car paint after waxing/polishing). The Monokote Trim Solvent and a soft, clean polishing cloth can be used to "polish" the Monokote when complete. Note, paper toweling may micro-scratch the Monokote surface. ;)
 
Where are you getting Monkote trim solvent? I absolutely cannot find it anywhere.
 
Says "Discontinued" in the fine print. That's what I'm seeing pretty much everywhere. If I could find the SDS I might be able to figure out a suitable substitute but I'm not finding that either. Appears to have be oop for quite a while.
 
Wallace said:
Says "Discontinued" in the fine print. That's what I'm seeing pretty much everywhere. If I could find the SDS I might be able to figure out a suitable substitute but I'm not finding that either. Appears to have be oop for quite a while.
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Hmm. I'd better stock up if I still can.

The back of my bottle reads:

Contains: cyclohexanone, dihydro-1(3H)-furanone, and petroleum hydrocarbon. The smell of the solvent reminds me of something but I can not quite pin it down. Cyclohexanone is reported to have an acetone odor but the Trim Solvent doesn't really smell like acetone. If you're not going to use the solvent for chemically applying Monokote, I'd think that anything touted as a vinyl cleaner/polish would work just as well.

Sadly, TopFlite/Monokote appears to be another victim in the Hobbico bankruptcy.
 
Yup, sad times. Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can cobble..
 
Wallace said:
Yup, sad times. Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can cobble..
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At least some bits of Hobbico were saved. Estes, for example.

I just found some Ultracote Chrome on Amazon. I purchased 3 rolls of it. I'll post back here after it arrives and I've had a chance to assess it in comparison/contrast to/with my experiences using Monokote.
 
ghostfather said:
Still available from a German factory under the name Oracover:
https://www.oracover.de
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THANKSx1e+06!!!!!

I checked out the web site and downloaded their product description file (English). There's also a link to a US distributor. Not only do they carry a product equivalent to Monokote but the have many more colors as well as pattern (chequered) coverings. I feel a bit better now that there's an option for Monokote.
 
VAXman said:
Care to explain. Is Ultracote not vinyl?
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Both Monokote and Ultracote are heat shrink films intended for model plane covering. There are others too....Coverite, Towercote, Oracover, etc.

As mentioned earlier in the thread, I use them interchangeably, however they are a bit different to work with. Ultracote is a bit more forgiving...it acts a bit more soft, pliable, and as JoeG mentioned: shrinks differently with different heat settings. Monokote tends to leave a bit shinier finish, shrink up to a "tighter" surface over bays, etc., but can be a bit more finicky to work with. Both are similar products to achieve the same results; just have their own unique properties when working with them.

Forever and always, Hangar 9 Ultracote has simply been relabeled Oracover. (So all those things other and I have said about Ultracote above apply equally to Oracover).

Cheers!
 

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