I shot some pictures so you could see what I was talking about. This started happening a month after it was originally painted. Its like the paint never fully cured. The blue rocket doesn't have this problem, just the red one.
I suspect it got hot at the field and it accelerated the paint issue. Its wrinkling all around the lettering and in a few spots on the airframe. I've never had this happen with Krylon.... Krylon only screws up as you are spraying it. ;-)
I've used Future/Simple Green on many rockets without issue. I've used it over both paint (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) with and without clear coat for that deep, rich shine.
Okay I see what you're talking about now... that is what I call "paint creep"... it's sort of a shrinkage effect from paint that is put on too thick and doesn't really cure "hard"...
The paint will be "dry", but it never really gets "hard". I have only had it once on rockets-- an Atlas painted with Krylon "Chrome in a can"... (which chrome in a can is a notorious paint to work with, basically no matter what the brand...). The stuff went on like it was coming out of a garden hose, and I was spraying fast and light like I always do... just seemed the stuff wanted to run all over the place... basically I put a light coat on and had to keep the rocket turning and invert it every so often for about ten minutes after I sprayed the coat to get it to finally 'tack up' enough to stay put without running...
Basically, the paint "never hardened"... it was still sticky a day or so later... so I moved the rocket, still on it's paint stick installed in its motor mount, into the very hot pickup, which was sitting in the hot Texas mid-summer sun at the time, so I figured "what the heck-- use it for a drying oven!"... WRONG! I went back after ten minutes to check on the paint and found it forming a couple large bubbles on the fairings... So I brought it back inside, carefully pierced the bubbles with a pin, then gently massaged them back down onto the surface of the fairings with the flat side of a hobby knife blade and burnished them down extremely gently to rebond them to the surface...
After a few days the paint had "dried" enough to touch without leaving fingerprints... IF you were careful... I was still doing a few building steps and had to hold the rocket a bit firmly and end up leaving a fingerprint on it and had to very carefully massage it out by polishing the rocket with an old pair of underwear... the small ribbed texture of the cloth helps to smooth the paint back out... but the area was a bit darker, so I had to basically buff the entire rocket out to get it all to match again... (gotta be a joke in there somewhere... LOL
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Anyway, the rocket has, over the past year or two, gotten this same sort of "wrinkling" in some spots on it... the paint FINALLY seemed to harden up considerably over a couple months, but it's STILL not anywhere near as hard or durable as any other paint job I've done.
I think it was a combination of the material and being applied rather thick... like I said, I usually manage to get the paint sprayed on pretty well, without run, drip or sag issues... but this chrome in a can stuff just never seemed to harden up really.... sort of like what you're describing...
Lacquer paints tend to form quite hard layers, they dry quickly and hard... but due to VOC regulations most lacquers are gone from the marketplace. The lacquer finish, while hard, is also rather brittle and easily chipped or, if the substrate to which it is applies flexes, it can crack or "spiderweb"...
Enamel, on the other hand, takes a lot longer to dry... the solvents are weaker and take longer to evaporate... and the finished paint layer is usually considerably "softer" than a lacquer finish... this is both good and bad, because the softer finish can flex a bit more with the underlying surface without cracking or spiderwebbing, and impacts don't usually chip it so easily... but it's a bit less resistant to scuffing damage from glancing blows than a lacquer finish would be... but then again, usually lacquer will chip with a hard enough glancing blow to scuff or scratch enamel anyway...
Let's face it... no paint is "bulletproof"...
What I learned from my experience with this sort of thing is shoot for lighter applications, with more time between applications. I should have adapted my technique more for the different properties of the paint I was using, since it behaved so differently from the other paints that I had been using. I should put lighter coats on in the future, and give more time between coats, to allow the solvents to evaporate more before applying another coat over the previous one...
This isn't just a Valspar issue... this can happen with just about ANY paint... I've had it happen on farm equipment that I "overpainted" by shooting 3-4 heavy coats on it instead of going lighter... trying to build the paint up so that it wouldn't be so prone to wearing off... BUT, when you go too thick with too many coats, the overlying paint tends to keep the underlying paint rather "mushy" and never really lets it cure right, and this sort of thing happens, with the wrinkling and soft paint... heck I've got a stool I made in shop in 10th grade that I tried putting more and more and more layers of varnish on to get that "mile deep" varnish look... the stuff eventually wrinkled up from too many coats and layers, just softening up the underlying layers... it looks EXACTLY like those pics you posted...
Shoot for a lighter coat next time and see what happens is the best advice I can give...
Good luck on your next project! OL JR