A few Estes V2 Questions

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How do you prevent the Motor Mount Tube from being compressed by the Foam, as it expands ?

Dave F.
I let the foam expand all around the motor mount with my figer over the ohle I used to spray the foam in. I then can feel the preasur build up and I let go and the excess foam expands out the hole and I just keep wiping it away till it stops. When it is all dry I sand and paint over it.
 
I let the foam expand all around the motor mount with my figer over the ohle I used to spray the foam in. I then can feel the preasur build up and I let go and the excess foam expands out the hole and I just keep wiping it away till it stops. When it is all dry I sand and paint over it.

Do you do anything to support or protect the Motor Mount Tube ?

Dave F.
 
Well, part of my "Secret plan" if I can ever get to it, is to let the foam expand up the motor mount. Since the large centering ring that caps the end of the aft plastic section isn't there, after I set the fins I can partly fill each cavity and let it come up to that big opening. I may put waxed paper around the forward motor mount tube so that i can saw the excess foam flush and remove it. I think that should keep excess pressure from deforming the motor mount tube, esp. if you do all 4 segments within a minute of one another.

In Gerald's case it would seem that the fins would strengthen the motor mount tube quite a bit. But you could always put a spent engine casing in there. I really don't know how much pressure the stuff can exert as it cures; but once it's done, it's done. Next thought: Suppose I use an Aerotech RMS 24 mm casing... would that possibly damage the foam due to heat? Foam is one heckuva'n insulator.
 
I didin't think it was necessary, but I suppose you could put a motor in there till the foam cures just in case it crushed in the tube. But really just allowing it to expand and then ozz out did just fine.
Well @Gerald, I'm going to attempt to move forward with this build shortly... but what do you use for foam? Those cans with the screw-on trigger straw are huge and tend to be single -use, even if you carefully clean the trigger-straw and can tip with acetone? Or is that just the price you pay for being a nutty rocketeer? Anybody have any smaller sources for expanding foam?
 
After you use the straw you can drop it in a can of acetone to get the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Then around the house there is always some place that needs plugging, use the rest of the can up after locating these places. It seems after a while the can loses it gas if left for a week sitting. Yes kind of costly for a one rocket fix up but it's a hobby and hobbies are not for the poor.
 
After you use the straw you can drop it in a can of acetone to get the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Then around the house there is always some place that needs plugging, use the rest of the can up after locating these places. It seems after a while the can loses it gas if left for a week sitting. Yes kind of costly for a one rocket fix up but it's a hobby and hobbies are not for the poor.

Oh, so true! I think these cans are pretty much considered to be one-shot deals, so yes, I can take that approach. Thanks!
 
I always stick a cooking skewer down the straw until next time I need it. It pulls all the gunk right out...
 
The nose cone on the real V2 seems to be more “pointy” than on any of the model rocket kits, except for maybe the Maxi-Brute and the Spacemonkey Models version. I just purchased the SpaceMonkey version with the conversion kit, it is really nice. A great buy for the money.
 
The nose cone on the real V2 seems to be more “pointy” than on any of the model rocket kits, except for maybe the Maxi-Brute and the Spacemonkey Models version. I just purchased the SpaceMonkey version with the conversion kit, it is really nice. A great buy for the money.
I know! The Spacemonkey kit's creator replied on page 1 and I could've spit a ball of fire, as I already had started the Estes kit! He also graciously provided the proper fin profile, I'm trying to get time to do a "moments and centroids" workup of the stability with various engines in the back.
 
A couple of tips for the Estes 1/25-scale V-2 that may be of help...

First, the fins on the stock kit are way, way oversized. However, they can be trimmed back to a more scale-like profile without compromising stability as long as the kit is otherwise built stock. A template to trim the fins is attached.

Second, I offer a set of water-side decals for this kit that will allow the builder to choose from four different V-2 schemes. Two of these are wartime variants and the other two are post-war schemes.

https://www.spacemonkeymodels.com/products/decal-set-for-estes-1-25-scale-v-2-kit
James
You’re all a bad influence on my checkbook, but in a good way...
 
So I've got this moving again, never did get the time to do a full "moments and centroids" workup on it. Used epoxy to fillet bare balsa to the tail cone. It foamed ever so slightly (JB Weld plastic bonder), so some careful sanding is in order. Also used a white epoxy to mold a pointed tip for the nose cone, thanks to @samb for that one! Filleted fin tabs to motor mount tube with Titebond III. I have some wicking (i.e super thin) CA, is that what you'd used to soak into the fins and strengthen them, or does that embrittle them more? I'm considering then coating with tissue paper /CA prior to priming. I only get one shot at this so I can't foul it up.

yeah,. life... I have the curves of the nosecone and tailcone measured and in a spreadheet, all the areas and lengths and masses (measured with a balance weight scale from work good to ±0.1 gram)... just haven't had time to finish the calc. I went with the scale fines, I figure I'll finish the cale eventually and string test as well. The scale fins look a LOT better. I'll try to grab a pick in a bit here.

When I first joined up, @prfesser sent me a gift of kevlar shock cord - some of that will go into this one! Thank you again, my good fellow! And thanks to all for the tips and advice so far!
 
Well, the build is creeping along,,,

20210131_201620.jpg

@hcmbanjo's build inspired my to put the chain covers on the fins, and they have been coated with diluted Titebond III, sanded, and recoated two more times. Hopefully final sanding tonight, I haven't tried the glue method of filling before, so we'll see how finishing goes! Chain covers are made from popsicle sticks for more strength.
 
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Have not open my package yet, have you decided on paint scheme, I am cobsidring6 classic Black and White.
 
Classic
Nice work looking forward to seeing your finished product
I love my Estes V2 it’s a trusty right hand man always enjoy seeing her flight with a D12-5
 
Thanks, I'm trying. For a rocket like this, though, the finish is so critical; masking is going to be a real bear, I think. I was amazed to see that Aerotech offers "F" motors in 24 x 70mm size! I'm not the altitude junkie I was when I was a kid - something about putting all that work into a rocket and never seeing it again - but I was wondering what sort of performance I'll get, especially if I have to add more nose weight for the smaller fins. Even an "E" engine could pull the CG back a good ways. I take it you always have the spacer ahead of your engine.... bet that's got some burn on it!

I'm hoping that, like yours, this is a sturdy, faithful flier.
 
Thanks, I'm trying. For a rocket like this, though, the finish is so critical; masking is going to be a real bear, I think. I was amazed to see that Aerotech offers "F" motors in 24 x 70mm size! I'm not the altitude junkie I was when I was a kid - something about putting all that work into a rocket and never seeing it again - but I was wondering what sort of performance I'll get, especially if I have to add more nose weight for the smaller fins. Even an "E" engine could pull the CG back a good ways. I take it you always have the spacer ahead of your engine.... bet that's got some burn on it!

I'm hoping that, like yours, this is a sturdy, faithful flier.
I do have the spacer ahead of the engine
It burns well on a D12-5 I get 500 feet which is a nice up and down for the V2 has a nice slower majestic take off lol.
The aerotech F motor would really jump I bet!
I would like to try that one !

your right a lot of masking to really get the job done but it’s worth it cause it has potential to be one of your trusted and classic rockets to launch when your on the field
 
That's great - I always like the slow, majestic ones. But I only have a 36" long 1/8" rod, I fear I'll have to get an adapter and a 3/16" x 48" rod for this beauty.
Last several times I launched the V2 was at the local launch with there equipment but I think you should be able to get away with the standard 36inch but upgrading to 48x3/16 rod feels better ... bare minimum at least get the 3/16 rod for a more solid launch maybe less whipping action will take place
 
Thanks, I'm trying. For a rocket like this, though, the finish is so critical; masking is going to be a real bear, I think. I was amazed to see that Aerotech offers "F" motors in 24 x 70mm size! I'm not the altitude junkie I was when I was a kid - something about putting all that work into a rocket and never seeing it again - but I was wondering what sort of performance I'll get, especially if I have to add more nose weight for the smaller fins. Even an "E" engine could pull the CG back a good ways. I take it you always have the spacer ahead of your engine.... bet that's got some burn on it!

I'm hoping that, like yours, this is a sturdy, faithful flier.

The new 24mm Q-Jets that were announce at NARCON are actually lighter than a D12 or C11 black powder motor....so no need to add more nose weight than would be necessary to make it stable with scale-sized fins and the customary D12-3 or D12-5.

I find the BT-80 V-2 to be a reliable flyer...but I used the kit fin sizes. It's even flown once or twice on an Aerotech 24/40 reload.

And yes, I've seen them successfully flown off a 3-foot 1/8 inch rod...but again with the kit fins. A 4-foot 3/16ths rod would be a good idea.
 
@Adam3836 & @BEC, thanks to you both. I'm still a few months away from retirement but chomping at the bit to get more into the aerodynamics of all this. Being a bit of a hardhead I didn't want to just start simming with Rocksim or OR, but instead get into the "Topics in Advanced Model Rocketry" (that I now feel privileged to own), and develop a good understanding of some of the finer points. F'rinstance, I know you can satisfy the CG/CP criteria in my case by adding nose weight to move the CG forward to make up for the loss of fin area. But in my rudimentary thinking, that also increases the moment of inertia about the pitch/yaw axes, and with the smaller fin area you have less correcting moment and a less well damped response to perturbations (I think). And of course you need a little more kick in the pants to get to stable speed off the rod. The venerable V2 also has the boattail, which I've gathered (may not be correct) Mr. Barrowman has something to say about with regards to the plain ol' CP based on the simple planiform area.

So lots to learn, but for now my quick takeaway is: string test this bad boy in flight configuration, finish my CG calc if I can, and get a 3/16" x 48" rod because I want to fly bigger boys anyway at some point. I think I can get a thread adapter from McMaster-Carr. My current 1/8" rod threads into a "metal threads in wood" ferule in my launch pad.

Next, how to paint this beauty... the masking's gonna be tough.
 
Yessir! That would be a lot easier! But this is for my brother in law, and he wants one of the "authentic" black and white patterns used on the test vehicles. It's a chance to buold my skills... !
 
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