Which mid; power kit????

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I did look at that one, but I want to build and fly a rocket that I can, if needed, learn from my flights. A rocket like that deserves a display stand when it's not flying...rsbhunter
 
I did look at that one, but I want to build and fly a rocket that I can, if needed, learn from my flights. A rocket like that deserves a display stand when it's not flying...rsbhunter
I don't think I have had a flight yet where I haven't learned something.
 
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I typed the wrong info before, I am thinking of buying the Madcow DX3 2.6" kit, and using the Aerotech 29mm engine retainer...What is the difference between the hobby reloads and the high power reloads? This rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper....rsbhunter
I recently built and flew a Madcow 2.6" DX3 with the Aerotech 29mm aluminum retainer. It was a fun build that I learned lots from doing. I used it as my learner kit for high power construction techniques to get my L1 on a different kit. So in the end because of all the epoxy I used, it did turn out a bit heavier than others had simmed. But it flew nice and straight on H115 single use motor after I was L1 certified to just over 2000ft. I loved that it had a payload bay for learning about electronics/tracker. Only bad part of the kit is that it's got no included decals, but luckily stickershock has lots of colors to pick from.
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Just gotmy Aerotech 29mm/40-120 motor hardware today, ordered the DX3 and it will ship tomorrow!!! Now to get epoxy (brand???) Fin jig, and ??? to start building it. I am really excited ...rsbhunter
 
Just gotmy Aerotech 29mm/40-120 motor hardware today, ordered the DX3 and it will ship tomorrow!!! Now to get epoxy (brand???) Fin jig, and ??? to start building it. I am really excited ...rsbhunter

Unless your doing something exotic, most use Bob Smith Industries Epoxy on R/C Airplanes and Rockets.
High End I have used ZAP products.

It can be found in hobby shops, rocket vendors, and even amazon.

I recommend 15 min for a compromise between 5 min that is not as strong and 30 min that takes way to long.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-Mid-Cure-Combined/dp/B0166FFFJ8/

Jigs make things easy, the two I have one LPR and one up to 4" rockets are no longer made. Some are costly, others like this not so much: http://qualmanrocketry.com/Fin_Guides.html

These are guides more so then real Jigs like this: https://www.macklinmissileworks.com/shop/mid-size-guillotine-fin-jig-1

You don't need one but without one you have to baby sit that fin till it cures (other reason for 15 over 30)
 
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I have the Bob Smith 15 min in my basket on Amazon, and looked at the jigs on Madcow. The jig shows for the G10 fins? I'm sure they would work, but I was going to call to verify. I know I'm being cautious, but I have items for other hobbies that cost $$$ that I was sure would work, but didn't. I really appreciate the help, I'd rather appear naive, that think I know it all and end up with a doghouse I nstead of a rocket..rsbhunter
 
Unless your doing something exotic, most use Bob Smith Industries Epoxy on R/C Airplanes and Rockets.
High End I have used ZAP products.

It can be found in hobby shops, rocket vendors, and even amazon.

I recommend 15 min for a compromise between 5 min that is not as strong and 30 min that takes way to long.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-Mid-Cure-Combined/dp/B0166FFFJ8/

Jigs make things easy, the two I have one LPR and one up to 4" rockets are no longer made. Some are costly, others like this not so much: http://qualmanrocketry.com/Fin_Guides.html

These are guides more so then real Jigs like this: https://www.macklinmissileworks.com/shop/mid-size-guillotine-fin-jig-1

You don't need one but without one you have to baby sit that fin till it cures (other reason for 15 over 30)
I second the Guillotine fin jig. I love mine,
 
David, thanks for the link....it is probably my best deal for now. As we don't have a NAR or other club here, I'm kinda limited to mpr ,right now. iF that changes, then an upgrade to a jig would be warranted. rsbhunter
 
I don't doubt the value of the Payload Bay guide at all....I was thrilled that there was a low cost, no cost option. I then read about the new option of the rocket, dual deploy electronics included, parachute deal that is going for $100.00 +/-. That will help alot of people (me) into the next level without fear or anxiety of putting hundreds of dollars into a project that has a "chance" of working...but again, that fin guide is a big bonus...and i am printing it NOW!.rsbhunter
 
Ok, more malfunction on my part..on payload bay, I set up for 2.6" Dia, 2.5" fin .125 thickness. When I view download, and print, I get a body dia about 1.5" body tube (on paper)??? I eventually used 4.075 diameter to get an honest 2.6" tube dia.!!!! I tried "fit to page" and "fillpage" on printer page. I now have the template, but it was a chore. What did I do wrong? Thanks for the info, it helps....rsbhunter
 
Ok, more malfunction on my part..on payload bay, I set up for 2.6" Dia, 2.5" fin .125 thickness. When I view download, and print, I get a body dia about 1.5" body tube (on paper)??? I eventually used 4.075 diameter to get an honest 2.6" tube dia.!!!! I tried "fit to page" and "fillpage" on printer page. I now have the template, but it was a chore. What did I do wrong? Thanks for the info, it helps....rsbhunter
Is your printer set to print at 100%, or is it trying to scale to 'fit to page'/'fit to paper'?

I just pulled the .rkt file for the DX3 from the Madcow site, imported into Open Rocket, used those values to populate Payload Bay and tried to print the fin guide. It initially defaulted my HP printer to scale to fit on paper (approximately 63% of full size). I had to change the print job settings to print at 100% scale.
 
There are a number of quality manufactures out there that sell some really nice products. I'm going to second Scott's recommendation on the 3" BMS rocket for your first starter mid-power. It's a simple build with good parts at a price that is very reasonable. I recommend getting the 29mm version with the 34 inch extended tube. Makes for a nice sized rocket for $5 more. Do note that it doesn't come with a parachute so I'd recommend grabbing a 30" Nylon from them or any other vendor.

For starters, I'd stick with single use motors. These don't need to be assembled but some of the larger ones do require you to drill out the ejection delay. You can move into reloads when you're comfortable.

Single deploy is the simplest method. Launch the rocket and let the motors ejection charge pop the recovery gear just like the smaller rockets. I'm just getting into Dual deploy myself and it looks like it will be fun and useful but it does require a little bit of learning and some investment in electronics.

As for the materials. There is nothing wrong with cardboard and wood rockets. Easy to build, easy to repair and the cost is generally lower than fiberglass or other material

A good option is LOC Precision. They have a number of kits that are perfect for someone just getting into mid-power but they have options all the way up to your Level 3 if you ever want to go that far.

Below are a couple that I would consider good mid-power kits.

https://locprecision.com/collections/rockets-2-63-diameter/products/scout
https://locprecision.com/collections/rockets-2-63-diameter/products/nano-magg
https://locprecision.com/collections/rockets-2-63-diameter/products/t-loc-263
https://locprecision.com/collections/rockets-2-26-diameter/products/lil-nuke
https://locprecision.com/collections/rockets-3-1-diameter/products/onyx
 
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@rsbhunter:

I love my 2.6" DX3, so I think you made a good choice there. Just build it per the instructions, don't go overboard on the glue, and it'll turn out great.

Regarding the Payload Bay guide, I've used them from tiny Estes rockets to high-power rockets. I'm adamant that it's the way to go for fin guides versus purchasing something. I'd suggest you simply wait until the rocket arrives and measure the components needed for the fin guide yourself. There's no real reason to create the guide just yet, if you don't have the rocket being built. Like @David_Stack said, just make sure your printer is set to 100% scale and it'll come out correct. Good luck!

PS pro-tip: fin span for the Payload Bay fin guide doesn't actually need to be that exact. I usually make my fin cutouts a bit taller to make it easy to install, and then I use rubber bands around the fins to hold them tight to the body tube while the glue dries.
 
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