Tool guys: Please Help me troubleshoot drill press wobble/run-out

[Marc_G]

Hi everyone,

A couple years ago I bought a big honkin' drill press, a Porter Cable 15" PCB660DP. It was more than I needed, but I figured what the heck, maybe one day I'll be glad for the size.

I assembled it right away but it mostly sat unused for the last two years or so, only occasionally being used for some small job.

In the last month or two I've started using it more, and I've noticed that no matter what bit I use, I'm getting a pronounced wobble or run-out at the end of the bit. Maybe as much as 2 mm or so. It's not bent bits, since I see this with multiple bits, and if I lay my finger on the spinning chuck, I feel a pulse there as it spins.

Though I felt I followed the instructions properly during assembly, it's quite possible I did something wrong, and I want to fix it. I'm just not enough of a big tool guy to know where to start.

I do have the instructions; the relevant page where I assembled the chuck onto the spindle arbor is page 13. I'm just not sure what I could have screwed up that would cause the wobble, or how exactly to fix it.

Before I attempt removing the chuck, and possibly damaging things in the bargain, I figured I would check with the tool gurus here and leverage your experience. I don't even know how to remove the chuck, as it's been hammered into place with a mallet. Presumably downward force on it, but I'm not sure exactly how to do it.

Guys, please take pity on me and help me sort this out!

Marc

 

[cvanc]

Drill presses aren't known for fantastic performance when it comes to runout, but 2mm sounds awfully large. All I can suggest is disassembling the chuck and arbor, cleaning everything, and putting it back together. If that doesn't work, you're gonna need to start replacing parts to see what makes it better. Good luck - drill presses are a mixed blessing :bang:

 

[rharshberger]

Definitely check your arbor shaft for straightness and that any bushing fit properly. Is it a MT style arbor?

 

[SCP]

You can use a dial indicator on the table, and check runout on the outer edge of the drill chuck (is it a jacobs style?)......I would suggest looking for the source of the runout first. If you dont see anything there, and you still see runout of a drill bit, its in the chuck itself. If you saw runout on the outside of the chuck then you need a new arbor. Maybe it had been hit with something pretty hard over the years you may not have noticed? INdicating for runout WILL find the source...........

You can remove the chuck with a (like a pickle fork for tie rods) fork usually....but in a jam you could knock it off without that...the risk is bending the arbor haha. They should pop off with a good firm whack though.

 

[Marc_G]

Since this thing is practically brand new, though 2 years old, I doubt anything hit it, but it could be a manufacturing defect. looks like I need to take off the chuck and arbor clean, inspect, reassemble, hope for the best.

 

[T-Rex]

On my Horror Freight press, I have to be careful how I load the bit. I have noted that it seems easier to get it not straight than straight. Yours being a better quality I hope would not have that problem.

The quill adjustment procedure is in the instructions at the top of page 14 if the whole spindle seems loose or wobbly. Otherwise as others have said it may be the chuck or spindle, and finding a way to indicate it will give you the answer you seek.
Doesn't have to be a real accurate dial, a horror freight grade will be good enough.

 

[robnee]

I'd take the chuck off and make sure the male and female tapers are clean and smooth. Check the arbor for run out and reseat the chuck. If it's not true then you might want to get a replacement chuck.

 

[Marc_G]

The quill seems pretty steady, no problem as far as I can tell. There's no play that I can sense.

I was easily able to get the arbor out of the quill (used a big screwdriver through the quill slot like a lever, and the arbor/chuck popped out). Then I put the chuck in a vise and used a wrench to turn the arbor while the chuck was motionless, and it came off.

No signs of any problem, just the arbor, which is tapered to fit, seems to be going into the quill ever so slightly at an angle. Or perhaps the chuck isn't seating properly on the arbor. Further effort to be spent. When I insert just the arbor, no chuck, and turn on the drill the thing seems to spin relatively wobble free, though I can't say it's perfect... not sure I can sense/measure it. But it seems quite good if not absolutely steady. With the chuck reassembled on, and tapped securely into place, I got the same amount of wobble as before.

The chuck costs $~40; the arbor about $10. Plus who knows how much shipping.

I'm sort of wondering if it's worth putting $50 in and hoping one of the two parts fixes it. Or, I could reserve this unit for less critical tasks and buy a smaller press for more precision work.

Hmmm. All I wanted to do was drill a hole in a board for a fin jig; needing the hole to be centered...

 

[robnee]

There's no reason the chuck you have should be bad but you could order a replacement and see if it helps. You could return it if not. If you have Amazon Prime it's basically free. I replaced the stock chuck in my Craftsman press with a very nice Jacobs and it runs better than the original. Not surprising as the stock chuck was serviceable but not high quality.

You should probably also check the chuck itself for debris. If none of this helps then I guess check the arbor if you don't have a dial indicator you can usually feel wobble with a finger on the arbor turning the quill by hand from above.

 

[Zonie]

This is timely for me.

I was using my rarely used Delta Drill Press yesterday making new Flagpoles for the scout troop and thought, this thing has horrible run-out.

Thinking I need to engineer a better bearing assy on the main shaft.

I guess it just isn't me.

 

[Marc_G]

I took it apart again and reassembled it a bit more tightly (switched from rubber mallet to hammer softened by thin wood). Then inspected the operation. It seems as though the wobble is most pronounced on the part of the chuck up at the top (that turns to open/close the chuck). The lower part of the chuck (with holes to register the chuck key)actually was only slightly wobbly. I may have been over-reacting to the fact that the upper part of the check was wobbling a lot, apparently due to the mechanism itself.

Before I spend any money replacing parts I will try some tests next weekend... no time before that. At least I know how to take the thing apart now!

PS: Amazon doesn't seem to carry the parts... I'd have to get them from PC or a couple other places that stock them.

 

[ChrisAttebery]

Remove the chuck, turn it on, and put you finger against the taper. Can you feel any runout? If not the arbor is fine.

More than likely its a cheap chuck that is causing all of your issues. Find out what the taper on the arbor is and get a new chuck from Enco or Amazon. I would NOT spend the money on another chuck from PC.

 

[new2hpr]

As others have said, work your way down with a decent dial indicator (borrow or rent if you don't have one). Start with the arbor out, and put the indicator on the taper surface. Just spin the quill by hand and write down what you get. Put a mark (sharpie) on the high spot if there is one. Then install the arbor only and do the same. You may be able to install the arbor in two orientations, 180 degrees apart. Try both. Then put on the chuck and repeat. It should be come obvious which part is the offender. Usually a cheap chuck, but the arbor might be bent as well.

Only if it's in the quill itself would I relegate this machine to coarse work. However, you're not likely to get better performance with a smaller/lighter machine. The bigger ones generally are more solid, and cost is usually directly proportional to performance.
-Ken

 

[ChrisAttebery]

BTW: The manual states that there is a 3 year warranty. Call PC and put it to use. They will probably send you the replacement parts for free.

 

[Marc_G]

I will call them and see if I can get replacement parts under warranty. I haven't got a gauge to measure stuff but this is what I think:

The arbor seems to be spinning pretty true. Without the chuck on it, there is hardly any pulse to it if I lay my finger on it while spinning.

The chuck does wobble but most of the wobble is felt at the top rather than below.

I think the chuck isn't holding bits properly centered and true to the axis. Maybe bad chuck, maybe poor mate to arbor.

Will call PC tomorrow and see what they say and report back here.

 

[Marc_G]

By the way do I understand correctly that other chucks might be compatible? It didn't occur to me that any other chucks would fit.

 

[ChrisAttebery]

Drill chucks all use Jacob's tapers. If you can get hold of a pair of calipers it's pretty easy to figure out which one you have. They are different enough that you don't have to have perfect measurements to deduce which taper you're working with.

https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/tapers.php#Jacobs

 

[Marc_G]

Contacted PC yesterday; since I'm out of the initial 1 year warranty but within the three year warranty, I have to contact a place in town to have the unit evaluated to see if it's a manufacturing defect or improper use / wear. I have a feeling they will tell me to bring in the drill... but it's way too heavy for me to move, and I barely got it safely into my basement when I bought it. Will call them today and see what they say.

I've got calipers so I can figure out which taper it's got, so I can investigate alternative chucks. The more I think about it the more I think most of the problem is in the chuck or how the chuck sits on the arbor.

This weekend I'll investigate further.

 

[Woody's Workshop]

I had a similar problem with my first Ridgid drill press, but run out was much worse.
Turned out they left the top bearing out, Imagine that?
It's probably a pourly made chuck. But close up the chuck all the way with nothing in it.
The tips should all be even at the bottom.
If not, loosen slightly and gently tap the tips with a brass hammer.
If one of the jaws are slightly off, it won't center any bit correctly.

 

[Marc_G]

So, the way this played out is that I didn't want to deal with the hassle of PC's outsourced warranty center. I did my online research and found out the chucks PC provides with this drill aren't known for their precision, and even if I did lug my 200 lb drill over to the other side of town and they found the chuck was out of spec, there's a good chance the replacement wouldn't be much better.

So I got on Amazon prime and ordered a nice Woodstock keyless chuck, and for good measure a matching new arbor, both of which arrived today. A bit of cleaning off the manufacturing oil, a few taps with a mallet, and the new parts are installed and running much more true than with the original chuck.

Problem resolved.

Marc

 

[ChrisAttebery]

Great job.