The simple High Power Two Stage (Metallic Bliss)

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bandman444

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,314
Reaction score
281
Location
Renton, Washington
Before even starting this thread I KNOW there will be a million nay sayers to the methods I plan on using for this rocket.

The goal for this project is to demonstrate simple staging and sustainer ignition techniques that can be used on rockets very small to very large. The point of this rocket is to act as a test bed to figure out any possible kinks before trying to fly larger.

I have a very different mind set on this rocket than most of you guys.

There have been some extremely well documented two stage rockets on here and Rocketry Planet. Jim Jarvis, Adrian Adamson, and Ken Biba and others are in my mind the two stage masters, although not successful 100% of the time, they have had their successes prove wonders to the hobby. There is one thing to note though, complexity. Perhaps they will tell you otherwise, but to fly a two stage rocket the way they do it requires hours of prep, and tedious assembly. That is NOT what this rocket will be.

I don't want others to claim my attempt to be reckless, because from the way I see it I personally think that you become more reckless with the more complexity you add.

KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) is a phrase I like a lot, but for this rocket I want to make an edit, KISS will mean Keep It Safe and Simple in this thread. I in no way plan on building a rocket that is purposely unsafe.

This rocket will be a 4" to 3" rocket with the motor mounts being 54mm-38mm respectively. The transition or "inter-stage coupler" as some call it will be a LOC 4" to 3" transition. At first I didn't think a plastic coupler would be strong enough, but our onsite vendor had one and I was impressed with the stiffness, and I think with minimal reinforcement it will work very well.

I plan on going into more detail in the coming week, but I will get out as much information as I can.

Both body tubes will use Blue Tube 2.0, and based on what I have in my parts pile, the 54mm MMT will be Blue Tube, 38mm MMT will be LOC Paper tubing, and the nose cone will be a 3" plastic LOC nosecone. I'v got a couple plywood centering rings for it and I think that sums up the build materials.

Now the most important/daunting part of any High Power Two Stage is the electronics. This is where I will differ most from other flyers. I am NOT a electronics guru, and to be honest some of the electronics available for rocketry scare me, because if you don't know everything about them you could end up making simple mistakes because of pure ignorance, most electronics problems are solved easily after the fact, just further proving my point.

There are, as I have mentioned, many extremely high tech rocketry electronics on the market right now. This project will not be using any of them.

There will be 4 electronic actuated events:

Stage separation
Sustainer Ignition
Sustainer Apogee
Sustainer Main



Stage Separation:

Stage Separation will occur 1 Second after Booster Burnout and will be triggered by a PET2 timer that is in the "inter-stage coupler". A small black powder charge will be used to perform the separation, ground testing of course will done.

Sustainer Ignition:

Sustainer ignition will occur X seconds after Stage Separation and will be triggered by a second PET2 timer this time located in the sustainer Av-bay. Because CTI 38mm motors will be used in the Sustainer Ignition will always be from an unaugmented CTI E-match style ignitor that will be at the top of the motor against the BP ignition pellet.

Sustainer Apogee and Main Deployment:

Pretty self explanatory, a MAWD and RRC2 will be used in the standard dual deployment of the sustainer body.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




The Name "Metallic Bliss" is from what I hope the rocket will look like when it is done. It will using the Aluminum fins that I have made. They actually will be the test pieces, and although are not 100% perfect they will perform perfectly for this build.

I envision a very smooth sexy rocket, with some mylar highlights and some cool holographic decals from Mark at Stickershock23.com







The first question I get from people is "Everything you say would work great if the flight was perfect, but what about a less than perfect flight?"

First you must consider the possible failures. The first few that comes to most peoples mind is "what about if it doesn't separate?" or "What if it doesn't light the sustainer?" (One of the most common failures of High Power two stage rockets)

No separation:

If the rocket fails to separation it will coast at a slower speed until the sustainer ignition charge is fired, then separation will be mandatory. Of course I don't want that to happen, but if it does it will result in a lower altitude and a probably a melted "inter-stage coupler". Not a huge loss because the couplers are around $19 and available onsite.

No Sustainer ignition:

If separation were to occur, but no ignition simply the rocket will continue travelling till apogee is reached and the Dual Deployment altimeters will fire a apogee charge and a main charge, the rocket may land a little bit faster due to the extra weight of the unfired motor, but a slightly larger than required chute will be used for the main of the sustainer.

No separation or sustainer:

Someone was going to ask. :eyeroll: This is the slightly more humorous failure which will prove that I need to go back and fly more Estes rockets. With no separation or ignition it will likely end up similar to the above scenario. But since the booster will remain attached the boosters motor ejection charge will have the boosters main chute out and again the sustainer will have regular Dual Deployment, just while attached to a booster under parachute. Tangles would probably be the biggest worry. Extremely unlikely.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------






Well hopefully you have enjoyed the beginning of this build thread, the pictures of what I have so far are on my cell phone I will post those shortly.

Be sure to subscribe to this thread if you are interested in the outcome of this build.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
How are you going to prevent a cato if separation doesn't occur? I've heard that you need significant ventilation for staging.

What about unstable flight? It can "just happen" sometimes. If you remember CCotner's two flights last ROC launch with his green Talon, they went unstable somehow, despite being 1.4 calibers stable (admittedly, less stable than it had been in the past).
 
How are you going to prevent a cato if separation doesn't occur? I've heard that you need significant ventilation for staging.

What about unstable flight? It can "just happen" sometimes. If you remember CCotner's two flights last ROC launch with his green Talon, they went unstable somehow, despite being 1.4 calibers stable (admittedly, less stable than it had been in the past).

Well personally I find it very hard to imagine a commercial J motor CATOing because a lack of ventilation. Once the motor starts to produce any pressure the interstage coupler will either separate (best case) or some how get stuck (worst case) in which case the motor will have absolutely no problem blowing it right apart.
But if that is a real concern can you please attach some examples. I would be interested to see them.


In the case of an unstable rocket the worst case scenario is having the sustainer motor ignite. Well as it sits depends on how "unstable" it is. With 5calibers and 6calibers respectively that shouldn't be a problem. If something major happens then the sustainer altimeters will pick it up and deploy to slow things down.

You can not solve every problem, but my intention is on building a two stage rocket that will be no more "dangerous" than every other average High Power rocket.

CATOs happen, Instability happens, but this rocket will not cause more of a risk than its single stage counter parts.

Thank you Carlo for your questions.
 
I haven't seen any real examples of a CATO due to exhaust obstruction, just heard of it.

Nor am I interested in testing it (by catoing a whole lot of motors).

I guess with your stability margins, it's going to be a calm-day rocket only? (though that's probably true of any two stage rocket, whether it has sophisticated electronics or not)
 
Looks cool Bryce, glad to see you putting those fins to use!
Good Luck with the build.

Alex
 
I haven't seen any real examples of a CATO due to exhaust obstruction, just heard of it.

Nor am I interested in testing it (by catoing a whole lot of motors).

I guess with your stability margins, it's going to be a calm-day rocket only? (though that's probably true of any two stage rocket, whether it has sophisticated electronics or not)

I just see it as a remote failure point. I mean we use those plastic caps on motors all the time. I know people who tape them on. On little motors, F and down, that is an issue because the motor isn't strong enough to get them all the way off and I have seen flights where it seems the plastic cap has caused vectored thrust and sure enough half of the cap is still on.

Low wind is very important. Not to mention that 16,000ft isn't fun when you drive miles and miles to recover it. :p

Thanks Mason and Alex for you kind words.
 
Cool find. If the stages don't separate do you really think there is much concern with over pressurizing a motor? I would think a 2.5" M3700 is running a crazy pressure anyway.

Thanks for the link.
Depending on how quickly the upper stage motor lights and how quickly the stages separate, it could be an issue. The basic rule of thumb I've heard slash used is to make the holes the same area as the throat exit of the motor (such that they can accommodate the gases at a reasonable pressure - thanks Mark). For a 38mm motor, that's not too bad -- even for something like a 38/1116 you only need 4 0.3125" holes -- which is IMO a reasonable and rather unobtrusive insurance policy.
 
Last edited:
Depending on how quickly the upper stage motor lights and how quickly the stages separate, it could be an issue. The basic rule of thumb I've heard slash used is to make the holes the same area as the throat of the motor. For a 38mm motor, that's not too bad -- even for something like a 38/1116 you only need 4 0.3125" holes -- which is IMO a reasonable and rather unobtrusive insurance policy.

That was a really awesome flight. Although, the top of the booster is fairly cooked o_O
 
If the stages do not separate and the gas has nowhere to go the motor will over pressurize faster than it can push off the booster. It acts similar to having a clogged nozzle.

I have used the vent area as equal to the nozzle exit, IIRC I used 6 x ¾” for the M3700. For a normal HPR motor it still is not too bad.

The electronics in the Thunderbolt were so primitive they are not worth noting other than they worked but were a bad idea and would not pass RSO today.

What I would use would be two accelerometer based altimeters, one in each stage. Booster Alt would fire the separation charge and booster recovery parachute. The sustainer alt would be motor ignition, apogee and main. This way there are no wires between the stages and they can be prepped separately, sustainer stuck on top of the booster and armed.

Mark
 
Sounds great! I look forward to seeing it go; best of luck!

My only wonder is whether it is really simpler to setup four different computers (simple timers admittedly) than hooking up a single Raven in the sustainer to fire all events; that has a single failure point though. I'm not sure...staging scares me, and is something I will not be attempting in the near future. Best of luck to ya!
 
You make no mention of booster recovery, what's the plan for that?
 
You make no mention of booster recovery, what's the plan for that?

You are right I only vaguely mentioned it.

I've attached the RockSim design as it is on my computer right now, it is always changing and the weights are far from accurate, but check it out if you dare.

The booster section is acting as a simple motor eject rocket. One main parachute. It uses motor eject to separate the interstage coupler and on a nominal flight it will just be booster-cord-interstage coupler. The motor delay will be based on the motor selection and will be drilled to a certain time after stage separation and estimate coast time.

View attachment 4inch to 3inch two stage test.rkt

Thanks
 
Well got some decent progress done on the rocket these last couple days.

I have narrowed down the design which has allowed me to get started on the structural aspects of the rocket.

I started with the booster.

It has a 54mm MMT and so I went ahead and epoxied the centering rings to the MMT tube.
Then I epoxied the Aeropack retainer. Could have used JB Weld, but I really doubt it is needed.

I then epoxied the MMT assembly into the 4" booster tube.

After that I wrapped masking tape around the aeropack and filled in the centering ring with the extra epoxy. I don't know why I do this but I will tell you that it helps protect against heat.

Aft of booster with CTI Pro54 Casing.



image-386575810.jpg

I am very tired I will pick up with sustainer sometime tomorrow.
 
So the booster is done and the only thing left is applying the fins (after I make them) and paint and decals.

The sustainer is where the design work was needed. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible so that so that I could minimize the complexity and chance for error.

One of the biggest conundrums in a high power two stage is wiring. Getting wires to go from an av bay to the interstage coupler and to the sustainer motor without loosing the ability to do dual deploy (a must with expected altitudes above 15,000). With the really large two stage and cluster rockets you can usually fit the electronics in between the fins, but I would really struggle setting everything up with less than a .5" on either side of the motor.

Btw I upped the sustainer motor mount to 54mm now so that I could fly it by itself and really get some speed.

Pictures.

My design is to have the avbay appear to be a standard avbay and just be a coupler with two bulkheads near the nose of the rocket, but the bottom part will be screwed into the airframe and two sets of wires will leave the bottom going to the interstage coupler and sustainer motor and two wires leaving the top for standard dual deploy from one tube.

To make the wires extend all the way through the motor mount I added two 1/4" aluminum tubes I got at my local hobby store. I drilled the holes in the centering rings and then epoxied everything together.

Note: the aft most centering ring must be far enough up to allow the interstage coupler to slide all the way into the sustainer.

Note: the aluminum tubes must hug the motor mount not the airframe wall otherwise the interstage coupler won't go in. ( you could also cut it right at the centering ring, but I didn't do that.)

These are pictures of the completed motor mount.

image-3833246068.jpg



image-1016612177.jpg



image-1522856681.jpg



image-2951364012.jpg
 
Now on to the fins.


The fins I am using are the 3" Aluminum true diamond airfoil fins I cut on a CNC machine.

As covered in my other thread the process for bonding aluminum to other materials is extremely important.

I will cover the steps briefly here.

First I cleaned off the surfaces I will be bonding, I use rubbing Alcohol.

I mark a rectangle around where the fin will go on the airframe and aggressively sand with 60- grit sand paper and then followup with my razor blade making a deep crosshatched pattern.

Next I put epoxy on the rectangle on the airframe, you don't need a lot, but you need to cover the entire surface.

Next I put epoxy on the fin, this time I put a fair amount on and again cover the entire surface.

This step is why everything works. While the epoxy is on aggressively sand the entire bonding surface. Then place the fin on the rectangle on the body and push down.

You want a majority of the epoxy to to flow out only leaving a small amount.

Once you squeeze it and get it where you want it you should tape the fin to the body to maintain pressure so that you don't get a Project 60k disaster.

After that place it in the warmest place you have. Project60k had a curing oven at 180F for 1.5hours, I did it last night for 3hours under my heat lamp, or you could let it rest for 48hours at room temperature.

image-2124342431.jpg

image-1863983403.jpg

image-2524468276.jpg

image-2700828212.jpg

image-3804836734.jpg

image-1451417067.jpg

image-3407217341.jpg
 
Bryce, I really like the idea of the aluminum tubes as electrical conduits. The beauty of that method is that you can easily replace wires, if need be, as well.

Regarding the epoxy on the rear ring, I do the same thing -- I don't put much, but after I have things epoxied in place, I pour a thin layer of epoxy over the rear ring. It helps make sure there's a fillet everywhere, plus, it does make it easy to wipe the motor residue off, for those who like to keep their rockets clean!

-Kevin
 
So after the cure process I wanted to test the overall strength. I have never tried glueing aluminum to Blue Tube before.

Wow.


Super impressive I could not for the life of me take these fins off. I really tried. I mean REALLY tried. Granted I am not strong, but whatever.

Short of any mechanical means I physically couldn't rip them off.

Super excited to see this fly.

Since the 4" fins for the booster will not be done till around Feb. I will probably get a chance to fly the sustainer alone in January or February.

Cool stuff.

Thanks Troj
 
So after the cure process I wanted to test the overall strength. I have never tried glueing aluminum to Blue Tube before.

Wow.


Super impressive I could not for the life of me take these fins off. I really tried. I mean REALLY tried. Granted I am not strong, but whatever.

Short of any mechanical means I physically couldn't rip them off.

Super excited to see this fly.

Since the 4" fins for the booster will not be done till around Feb. I will probably get a chance to fly the sustainer alone in January or February.

Cool stuff.

Thanks Troj
 
Unlike the FWCF we used for P60K the blue tube is a single wrap that isn't sanded once wrapped, so you're bonding to a full layer that has full contact to each underlying layer. The main issue with hobby tubes is and always will be peel strength of the epoxy used to wrap the tube :D While the failed fin on P60K was the initial cause of failure I still think the CF was better bonded to the hysol than to the rest of the layers of tubing.
 
Perhaps topping filament wound carbon fiber another kind of fiber which better bonds to epoxy (basalt, maybe?) would significantly improve the strength of surface-mounted fins, even if it is ground smooth in the same manner.
 
Bryce ,

So I understand correctly ,when you apply the epoxy to the aluminum fin surface ,you are sanding it while it is in the liquid form ,and not removing the epoxy slurry ,but placing it on the tube surface that has epoxy already applied ?

May I ask what grit size you are using to sand the fin/epoxy surface ?

Sorry if this has been explained already.

Thankyou in advance

Paul T
 
Bryce ,

So I understand correctly ,when you apply the epoxy to the aluminum fin surface ,you are sanding it while it is in the liquid form ,and not removing the epoxy slurry ,but placing it on the tube surface that has epoxy already applied ?

May I ask what grit size you are using to sand the fin/epoxy surface ?

Sorry if this has been explained already.

Thankyou in advance

Paul T

Same as the airframe -60 grit.

The epoxy is not removed after sanding for two purposes. It acts as a buffer to oxygen to keep the aluminum from oxidizing, and therefore losing its bonding strength, and the aluminum shavings provide a near perfect epoxy bonding thickness when pressure is applied.
 
I have a hunch that finer grit sandpaper on the metal side would work even better: it's easier to remove all of the oxide layer with finer sandpaper.
 
Back
Top