I have used those switches for 20 years with zero issues. I have some that have been turned on and off more than 40 times. The biggest issue I find is people overheat them when soldering them.As said above, mounting them into the switch band is just about standard.
There have been reports of them failing since they are really intended to be set once and forgotten, not repeatedly used as a switch. Personally, I really like keyswitches like https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switch/KO103C701/EG2623-ND/502087 for my rockets. I wish they weren't so deep behind the panel, though....
Does anyone see an issue with mounting these screw switches on the outside of the switch band instead of reaching in? I realize it’s not the norm but would prefer this method
Glad to read this - I ordered some a while ago and I'm in the process of fitting out an Av-Bay with one for the first time.Big fan of Lab Rat Rocketry switches. The pic is a double pull pin with Quantum and a Quark for back up from Eggtimer. Just bring your pin and replace it. View attachment 577106
Not to get away from the OP, but what is the purpose of the terminal blocks on the INSIDE of the av-bay? Confused....Big fan of Lab Rat Rocketry switches. The pic is a double pull pin with Quantum and a Quark for back up from Eggtimer. Just bring your pin and replace it. View attachment 577106
Not to start an argument but the Schurtner rotary switches I have are rated for 300 cycles. On launch, recover off = 2 cycles so that would be 150 flights before you reach the manufacturers conservative limit, I’m guessing that there’s not a whole lot of birdies out there with that many flights on them.Not a fan of those Schurter switches... look at the specs on them. The are designed to be set once and left alone, they're rated for like 50 cycles LIFETIME. I have had them come apart on me... and that's when I quit using them (and created the WiFi Switch instead). If you want to use a mechanical switch, there are plenty of alternatives that can handle the G's and vibrations, and in most cases are a lot easier to mount... screw switches (Rail-Buttons.com, Missile Works, Featherweight) and pull-pin switches (LabRat) come to mind off-hand.
Point was 50 cycles was not correct, manufacturer states 300 cycles.300 cycles is under ideal conditions. Ground testing, dirt and mach, test the durability of that switch.
Any interruption in continuity will rest the electronics. 3000 + cycles switch at least. I use the same e bay on more than one rocket.
why not just recess them in flush with the switch band? Wouldn't that work?Here's that same switch mounted on the outside. Been on this rocket for a few years - and numerous flights. No issues.
Just be sure the switch has a proper & tight fit, and clean wiring.
But it's not for every rocket. Most of my switches are inside the rocket.
View attachment 576797
View attachment 576798
why not just recess them in flush with the switch band? Wouldn't that work?
You could do that. I have seen it done on many L1 certification rockets from university teams.
The holes are always ugly looking. You wish they would learn how to properly drill a hole in
cardboard tubes. lol
I opted to surface mount the switch. It has a fairly durable lip (shoulder) and a threaded body,
so the nut nicely snugs the switch to the body tube.
A little drop of Loctite keeps the nut from backing off.
It's a very clean installation, and looks good too. I have not had any issues.
You do need to be attentive to the length of the switch's barrel and the wire contacts.
They extend a good bit into the rocket and could interfere with electronics on the sled.
I guess if you just sit around all night and flick your switch, then a Schurtner might not be for you. Being that they are plastic, I would recommend Testors or Duco Cement for glue if you’re a closet flickerSo, what's the best glue for a Schurter switch?
Personally, I really like keyswitches like https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switch/KO103C701/EG2623-ND/502087 for my rockets. I wish they weren't so deep behind the panel, though....
I purchased my first 3d printed sled from a popular source and to your point the switch band is all the way to one end of the sled.Some 3d printed electronics sleds have a bridge for attaching that same type of switch. From what I’ve seen the bridge is usually at one end of the sled, instead of over arching over the middle.
Unless you have a very long coupler I don’t think you could go thru a small hole in the switch band to access the switch mounted to that bridge
I purchased my first 3d printed sled from a popular source and to your point the switch band is all the way to one end of the sled.
Based on the installed depth of a rotary switch and possible conflict with mounted electronics I can understand why but based on my coupler length leaves it unusable if I want to use the switchband.
I'm new and trying to understand, would there be an ejection gas issue if the access is on the side of the coupler?Thanks for the reply to my question. The more I look into this, I can see that the switch doesn't really need to be centered over the switchband. Al long as you have holes lined up on the body and AV bay coupler prior to launch you can reach thru with a screwdriver and turn the switch, even if it is towards one end of the coupler..
Not usually.I'm new and trying to understand, would there be an ejection gas issue if the access is on the side of the coupler?
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