You had decals and not stickers?
SR-71 Blackbird build thread - FINISHED
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You had decals and not stickers?
The fins on the top of the plane got plenty of fillets and had lots of time to completely dry. They seemed very sturdy and I didn't think they'd break off by normal handling. In order to get the bottom fins on I had to turn the plane upside down and rest it on the top fins, and this made me a little nervous even with the seemingly strengthened top fins.
Fortunately, I realized that I could set the plane on the edge of the table with the top fins hanging off the side without the plane falling to the floor.
Problem solved! So I started the double glue method to attach the bottom fins. Here's the glue on the bottom of the plane, sitting on the edge of the table.
After letting the glue get nearly 100% dry I was ready to put on the bottom fins.
Fortunately, I realized that I could set the plane on the edge of the table with the top fins hanging off the side without the plane falling to the floor.
Problem solved! So I started the double glue method to attach the bottom fins. Here's the glue on the bottom of the plane, sitting on the edge of the table.
After letting the glue get nearly 100% dry I was ready to put on the bottom fins.
Just like the top fins, the bottom fins were glued on at an angle so I sanded the base edge at an angle to help the joint be stronger. The guide for the angle for the bottom fins was at the opposite angle from the guide that the top fins used but it was used in the same way. As I attached the first bottom fin and set the guide in place to measure the angle I realized that the nacelle tube was in the way, and wouldn't let the guide reach the fin.
IF I had glued the fin to the outside of the pencil line I'm sure the guide would have been able to reach the fin, but I was gluing all the fins directly on the pencil lines. I think the plane would actually look a little better if the top fins were on the inside of the pencil lines, and the bottom fins were on the outside. Maybe next time I build one of these I'll do that.
To get the guide to reach the bottom fin I had to cut off a section on the bottom of the guide. This wouldn't change the way the guide worked, the only critical parts of the guide are the edges that touch the fins. My alteration left plenty of this surface.
The guide probably would have been usable without cutting off that corner if I just looked at the angle of the fin and made sure it was the same as the nearby fin as I did in the first picture in this post, but having the guide to press against as I pushed the fin into the tube helped.
The bottom fins were glued in place and fillets could be added. I also glued on the launch lugs and gave them fillets whenever I added them to the bottom fins.
IF I had glued the fin to the outside of the pencil line I'm sure the guide would have been able to reach the fin, but I was gluing all the fins directly on the pencil lines. I think the plane would actually look a little better if the top fins were on the inside of the pencil lines, and the bottom fins were on the outside. Maybe next time I build one of these I'll do that.
To get the guide to reach the bottom fin I had to cut off a section on the bottom of the guide. This wouldn't change the way the guide worked, the only critical parts of the guide are the edges that touch the fins. My alteration left plenty of this surface.
The guide probably would have been usable without cutting off that corner if I just looked at the angle of the fin and made sure it was the same as the nearby fin as I did in the first picture in this post, but having the guide to press against as I pushed the fin into the tube helped.
The bottom fins were glued in place and fillets could be added. I also glued on the launch lugs and gave them fillets whenever I added them to the bottom fins.
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I took a few minutes and glued up the tri fold onto the end of the shock rubber band. I've read on here lots and lots of posts about reasons to replace the rubber band with something else. Maybe I should start doing that too, but I didn't. When I go to the hobby shop to buy military decals to use I'll pick up something to use for the next build.
In an earlier post I mentioned that the body tube was no longer round and the motor mount was very difficult to get into place. After all the fillets had dried on the fins and lugs I decided to glue the motor mount in place. Pulling it out was a little tough since the tube hadn't fully rounded out with the mount in place.
Here's the tube after I pulled out the mount. The flattening isn't nearly as bad as it was a few days ago when I posted about it, but it's still clearly out of round.
Because of the risk of welding the mount in place only halfway in, I didn't want to put glue on the centering rings and then try to slide the mount in place. That is a risk on a normal fitting mount, and on something this tight it would surely be asking for trouble. So instead, I used a piece of balsa and a puddle of glue to put a ring of glue inside the body tube just shy of where the furthest centering ring would go. I made a pencil mark on the balsa to indicate the depth I needed. I also made a pencil mark for the depth of the other ring, but didn't need to do that. If I put a ring of glue in the body tube for the other centering ring then the first ring would slide by it and possibly get glued in place too early, and remove most of the glue anyway.
So only the furthest centering ring got the glue placed inside the body tube. After that, the motor mount was put into the tube almost all the way to the glue, and some glue was spread onto the lower ring that was still outside of the tube.
Then the motor mount was shoved quickly into place. Or at least attempted to. I wanted to get the blue motor mount tube completely inside the body tube, but it locked into place with a tiny bit hanging out the back.
It's such a small amount that I'm not going to worry about it. But it's still surprising how quickly glue can set up when two pieces are stuck together with a lot of pressure!
Here's the tube after I pulled out the mount. The flattening isn't nearly as bad as it was a few days ago when I posted about it, but it's still clearly out of round.
Because of the risk of welding the mount in place only halfway in, I didn't want to put glue on the centering rings and then try to slide the mount in place. That is a risk on a normal fitting mount, and on something this tight it would surely be asking for trouble. So instead, I used a piece of balsa and a puddle of glue to put a ring of glue inside the body tube just shy of where the furthest centering ring would go. I made a pencil mark on the balsa to indicate the depth I needed. I also made a pencil mark for the depth of the other ring, but didn't need to do that. If I put a ring of glue in the body tube for the other centering ring then the first ring would slide by it and possibly get glued in place too early, and remove most of the glue anyway.
So only the furthest centering ring got the glue placed inside the body tube. After that, the motor mount was put into the tube almost all the way to the glue, and some glue was spread onto the lower ring that was still outside of the tube.
Then the motor mount was shoved quickly into place. Or at least attempted to. I wanted to get the blue motor mount tube completely inside the body tube, but it locked into place with a tiny bit hanging out the back.
It's such a small amount that I'm not going to worry about it. But it's still surprising how quickly glue can set up when two pieces are stuck together with a lot of pressure!
Great job documenting this build. I'm really, really enjoying it, and thinking about taking one of my SR-71s out of my kit stash!
Marc
Marc
RocketManDan
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I think ESTES could have done a better job on their instructions. Why does matter when to install the engine mount last? I would think that putting it in first would make most sense?
As far as using wood glue for the motor mount. That's exactly why I don't. It locks up! That same goes for tube couplers. I think epoxy if you had any would be the better choice. It's for forgiving and allows you some work time without locking up on you.
Good luck the rest of the way!!
As far as using wood glue for the motor mount. That's exactly why I don't. It locks up! That same goes for tube couplers. I think epoxy if you had any would be the better choice. It's for forgiving and allows you some work time without locking up on you.
Good luck the rest of the way!!
I plan on heading to my local hobby shop on my lunch break today and see if they have a pack of military aircraft decals. I'll also ask the guy behind the counter (who usually knows exactly what I'm asking about) if they'll work on this kit.
My other option is to buy a decal set from https://www.excelsiorrocketry.com. Last night I looked on their site and couldn't find decals for this kit so I sent them an email asking about it. This morning I got an email reply that the decal set had been added to their lineup!!! Wow, that's FAST! Unless my hobby shop has something really great I'll probably come back to work and order decals from Excelsior.
The only hesitancy is that the decals are $8 and shipping is $6.50. That's another $14 on a kit that was only $23 to begin with. But it's such a cool looking kit that it's only a slight hesitancy. I'm sure I'll end up getting them.
And while the decals ship, that'll give the paint plenty of time to fully dry.
My other option is to buy a decal set from https://www.excelsiorrocketry.com. Last night I looked on their site and couldn't find decals for this kit so I sent them an email asking about it. This morning I got an email reply that the decal set had been added to their lineup!!! Wow, that's FAST! Unless my hobby shop has something really great I'll probably come back to work and order decals from Excelsior.
The only hesitancy is that the decals are $8 and shipping is $6.50. That's another $14 on a kit that was only $23 to begin with. But it's such a cool looking kit that it's only a slight hesitancy. I'm sure I'll end up getting them.
And while the decals ship, that'll give the paint plenty of time to fully dry.
After all the fillets of glue had fully dried on everything I used blue painters tape to mask off the nose cone shoulder that slides inside the body tube and then taped that to the end of a dowel to apply primer. The smallest dowel I have wouldn't fit inside the nose cone hole or that would have been a lot more stable.
Painters tape was also used to mask off the motor mount of the rocket to keep primer (and later paint) out of there. I don't think I'll want the blue tube to show, so I'll probably go over it with a black sharpie when I'm done. The main body was then slid front first over a larger diameter dowel that wouldn't fit through the engine block ring.
Each one was brought into my paint booth (i.e. my unfinished basement) for a coat of primer. When they were dry I sanded each one with 220 grit paper until lots of tube and paper was showing again. That was a LOT of sanding! There are lots of surfaces on this kit to sand and whenever I thought I was done I found something else that needed sanding.
The edge of paper from the piece on bottom that turn up onto the sides of the front section was coming lose on one side. This was fixed with some CA that I applied to the seam and then pushed further into place with a scrap of cardstock. A little pressure on the side of the paper and it was holding in place again.
Then another, heavier, coat was sprayed on and these were left to dry over night.
That much time wasn't given because I thought it was necessary, but because it was time to stop working on it for the night. And I'm all out of sandpaper higher than 220 grit so I couldn't continue anyway. Today while I'm on my trip to the hobby shop to look for decals I'll stop by Home Depot and pick up a couple of packs of 330 and something higher. I want to sand each piece as smooth as possible before spraying on the gloss black.
Painters tape was also used to mask off the motor mount of the rocket to keep primer (and later paint) out of there. I don't think I'll want the blue tube to show, so I'll probably go over it with a black sharpie when I'm done. The main body was then slid front first over a larger diameter dowel that wouldn't fit through the engine block ring.
Each one was brought into my paint booth (i.e. my unfinished basement) for a coat of primer. When they were dry I sanded each one with 220 grit paper until lots of tube and paper was showing again. That was a LOT of sanding! There are lots of surfaces on this kit to sand and whenever I thought I was done I found something else that needed sanding.
The edge of paper from the piece on bottom that turn up onto the sides of the front section was coming lose on one side. This was fixed with some CA that I applied to the seam and then pushed further into place with a scrap of cardstock. A little pressure on the side of the paper and it was holding in place again.
Then another, heavier, coat was sprayed on and these were left to dry over night.
That much time wasn't given because I thought it was necessary, but because it was time to stop working on it for the night. And I'm all out of sandpaper higher than 220 grit so I couldn't continue anyway. Today while I'm on my trip to the hobby shop to look for decals I'll stop by Home Depot and pick up a couple of packs of 330 and something higher. I want to sand each piece as smooth as possible before spraying on the gloss black.
sandman
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I now have the SR-71 Blackbird decals listed on my web site.
Sorry no picture. The decal has so much white on it that a picture is hard to do.
I make white decals all black in my drawings then when I print I tell the printer to print white.
So to show you guys a picture I have to first change the background color so you can see the white. Then change everything that's black in my drawing to white.
Then copy/paste it into Paint and make it a jpeg.
Oh...and finally I have to be sure to change everything back so I can print it.
See...PIA!
Sorry no picture. The decal has so much white on it that a picture is hard to do.
I make white decals all black in my drawings then when I print I tell the printer to print white.
So to show you guys a picture I have to first change the background color so you can see the white. Then change everything that's black in my drawing to white.
Then copy/paste it into Paint and make it a jpeg.
Oh...and finally I have to be sure to change everything back so I can print it.
See...PIA!
Mushtang said:
Other ongoing projects, both rocket-related and regular life stuff.
About the decal shipping cost: it is for the whole order, so stock up on a few other decal sets for things you would like to build over the next few <insert time period here>. Spread that shipping cost out.
I am gradually working through my Excelsior decal stock backlog. Finished my Screamers. Just put decals on my Starship Vega (pics tonight) and am building a family of Bluebird Zeros.
Betcha can't order just one decal set!
RocketManDan
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I'm going to get some too...just need to inventory future builds
The local hobby shop didn't have anything to offer in the way of generic military aircraft decals, so I decided to order the decals from Excelsior. I also threw in an order for another kit to help spread the cost of shipping among 2 kits instead of one.
See how that works? I spent more money, yet I'm happier about it.
But I'm getting more stuff so it really is a better deal. I also managed to pick up some 320 and 400 grit sand paper from Home Depot while I was on my lunch hour and will be able to give the primer a final sanding and start spraying the gloss black tonight. It's a beautiful day outside but I'm still going to spray in my basement since we're officially having the highest pollen count EVER today. I don't want the black paint to have a light dusting of yellow pollen stuck to it.
See how that works? I spent more money, yet I'm happier about it.
But I'm getting more stuff so it really is a better deal. I also managed to pick up some 320 and 400 grit sand paper from Home Depot while I was on my lunch hour and will be able to give the primer a final sanding and start spraying the gloss black tonight. It's a beautiful day outside but I'm still going to spray in my basement since we're officially having the highest pollen count EVER today. I don't want the black paint to have a light dusting of yellow pollen stuck to it.
Mushtang said:The local hobby shop didn't have anything to offer in the way of generic military aircraft decals, so I decided to order the decals from Excelsior. I also threw in an order for another kit to help spread the cost of shipping among 2 kits instead of one.
See how that works? I spent more money, yet I'm happier about it.
.
Do tell us: what other decals did you get?
I have a Satellite Interceptor kit sitting in a bag, unopened, on the desk. This will be the next thing I build unless the R2D2 that I found on eBay shows up soon.
Because I haven't opened the bag yet I don't know if there are stickers or decals that come with the Interceptor. If they're decals, and I end up with an extra set, then I'll just have extra to use someday when I try my hand at building from scratch.
luke strawwalker
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I've got a whole box full of sandpaper, but 99% of the time I find all I really need is 220 and 440... "damp sanding" with 440 will make stuff slick as glass... (though I wouldn't recommend it on this kit with all the paper wraps).
Works for me... OL JR
RocketManDan
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I didn't know they made 440? Everywhere I looked it was 220, 400, 600 etc. I heard if you damp sand with Meguiar's 34 it makes the surface smooth and provides an even sanding pattern. It also lubricates the surface better. Their sand paper is much more uniform than most.
luke strawwalker
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Maybe it is 400 and I got 440 stuck in my head as double 220... LOL
I dunno... not gonna dig out a sheet to check now anyway... My brother uses Meguiars stuff on his cars/trucks (2010 Mustang GT and '69 Ford F150 "Lightning" (hopped up to "lightning" specs-- balanced and tuned 351 Cleveland 4 bbl., aluminum clutch, custom exhaust, 4 speed top loader from a 68 Mustang, lowered suspension, power steering/brakes, color-keyed wide racing rims/tires on 'stock' steel wheels/SS hubcaps, etc.) He likes the Meguiar's products, but then again, they're made for the classic/performance car clientele... and priced appropriately for that niche market... so I'd EXPECT them to be good!
I only use the coarser grits when turning balsa or foam parts, and the finer grits only when solving minor paint problems...
later! OL JR
RocketManDan
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Maybe it is 400 and I got 440 stuck in my head as double 220... LOL
My brother uses Meguiars stuff on his cars/trucks (2010 Mustang GT and '69 Ford F150 "Lightning" (hopped up to "lightning" specs-- balanced and tuned 351 Cleveland 4 bbl., aluminum clutch, custom exhaust, 4 speed top loader from a 68 Mustang, lowered suspension, power steering/brakes, color-keyed wide racing rims/tires on 'stock' steel wheels/SS hubcaps, etc.) He likes the Meguiar's products, but then again, they're made for the classic/performance car clientele... and priced appropriately for that niche market... so I'd EXPECT them to be good!
I only use the coarser grits when turning balsa or foam parts, and the finer grits only when solving minor paint problems...
later! OL JR
I use to own a detailing business probably 20 yrs ago and I used their products almost exclusively so I know them pretty well. The reason I suggested number #34 is because it has lubricates that allow the sand paper to slide without getting stuck. It also will help prevent leaving deep scratches. They also use the #34 for "claying" the finish.
When I got home tonight I used 320 grit sand paper to sand the second coat of primer smooth. I hadn't intended to get down to the paper, I just wanted to make a really smooth surface for the black paint. There ended up being a few areas where the paper showed through, but mostly the finish was very smooth indeed.
Then I started with the gloss black. The first coat was very light. It didn't even cover all the paper or tubing. The can says to apply the second coat within an hour or after 48 hours, so I waited about 55 minutes and added another coat which was a little heavier. This time the entire rocket was covered really well even though I only sprayed a slightly heavier coat.
I'll add a third heavy coat within an hour and let it dry overnight and then tomorrow I'll sand an area on the bottom, possibly the side of one of the bottom fins, with 600 grit sandpaper and see if that puts a super smooth finish on it. If so I'll do the rest of the model.
Then I started with the gloss black. The first coat was very light. It didn't even cover all the paper or tubing. The can says to apply the second coat within an hour or after 48 hours, so I waited about 55 minutes and added another coat which was a little heavier. This time the entire rocket was covered really well even though I only sprayed a slightly heavier coat.
I'll add a third heavy coat within an hour and let it dry overnight and then tomorrow I'll sand an area on the bottom, possibly the side of one of the bottom fins, with 600 grit sandpaper and see if that puts a super smooth finish on it. If so I'll do the rest of the model.
hornet driver
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That looks really nice but I have a question. I might make some enemies here. Realize I'm just picking nits. Why did'nt you sand down the leading and trailing edges ? Not critisizing just curious.
luke strawwalker
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Interesting idea... I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
I usually give 2-3 coats of primer and then sand it down til stuff JUST starts to peek through, then hit it with 440 wet/dry, usually damp, and then let that dry overnight and paint it. I find that if you get the primer slick and pretty, the paint going over it will be slick and pretty... no need for color sanding at all, unless I goof up spraying the paint or the paint goes wiggy on me or something.
If you're going to go over the paint with a clear satin or matte finish anyway to kill the shine after the decals go on, why bother sanding the glossy color coat down slick?? So long as the paint has gone on slick and smooth (no runs or drips or orange peel or other funky stuff) then I'd call it good. Remember the purpose of the gloss coat is to give a really smooth surface to stick your decals to-- sanding it will only roughen the surface and mess up the whole reason for going with gloss in the first place, and could cause silvering of the decals...
Sometimes a guy can overthink this stuff... do what you want, but if it were me, I'd shoot for a slick gloss coat, stick the decals on it, and then shoot it with satin or matte clear and call it good...
Later! OL JR
Someone else probably could have made the edges more like the actual plane - where the edge all around the plane is to a sharp point. But I was following the instructions and never saw anything like, "Sand fins to a point". Or if it did I didn't see it.
The wing section between the nacelles and the body tube are covered with the paper pieces and if I'd sanded the balsa to a point on the leading edges of the wings I would have wanted to do it on the sides of the front section too. If I did that, it wouldn't have matched the plastic nose cone shape on the back... but that probably could have been fixed too.
So I don't think this kit would have worked out well for the likes of me to try and make the edges sharp. Someone with more build skills might have been able to make it look good.
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Sometimes a guy can overthink this stuff... do what you want, but if it were me, I'd shoot for a slick gloss coat, stick the decals on it, and then shoot it with satin or matte clear and call it good...
Later! OL JR
You're totally right. I wasn't thinking about the matte finish step. The third coat of black went on heavy and looks really smooth! I think I'll just let it dry for a week or however long it takes for the decals to arrive from Excelsior.
Or *maybe* I'll hit it with a 4th coat later.
hornet driver
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Your build skills are fine--not to worry--I was more curious than anything. The build looks great -I mean really great- so move ahead with it--I'm looking forward to the finished product !!
luke strawwalker
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I wouldn't worry about that too much, either...
In the immortal words of Dr. Zooch, "your rocket will probably end up in the top of a tree or rotting in a power line anyway!"
I strive to do the best finishes I can on my builds, but it DEFINITELY ups the pucker factor and it stings when they get dinged!
Later! OL JR
Just checking on this, and I'm still half asleep:
There is a launch lug on her somewhere, right?
There is a launch lug on her somewhere, right?
Your Doing just Grand!
Some folks always round leading and trailing edges of their models, others try to aerospike leading edges while still others leave everything square edged as they comes out of the balsa sheet. It's a personal choice so don't worry about it. Your model is looking very good besides Most of the time the model will only be viewed by folks 15 or more feet away
Can't wait to see your model decaled.
Your build may inspire and pushing me to finish SR-71 #5 which was started more the 7 years ago still sitting gathering dust on the building table.
Keep up the fine work.
Some folks always round leading and trailing edges of their models, others try to aerospike leading edges while still others leave everything square edged as they comes out of the balsa sheet. It's a personal choice so don't worry about it. Your model is looking very good besides Most of the time the model will only be viewed by folks 15 or more feet away
Can't wait to see your model decaled.
Your build may inspire and pushing me to finish SR-71 #5 which was started more the 7 years ago still sitting gathering dust on the building table.
Keep up the fine work.
They're on the bottom, glued on for the last thing in post 93. Also see the pictures in posts 95 and 99.
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