Someone gave me an airbrush... how to use?

[FishnBeer]

A buddies stepdad died. He was into 'live steam' and made steam powered trains and boats. Had a bunch of hobby related stuff and my buddy gave me a couple paint sprayers. I got a fullsize automotive sprayer and this little airbrush.

The instruction manual is pretty well rotten and can only make out the back page and it is a 'Badger' dated march 1976. The sprayer looks dirty but not rusted or anything, I think I can clean it up and make use of it. I have a big shop air compressor but I figure that pressure is too high for this so I gotta turn the regulator down.... what pressure do these run at? How should I clean it? What paint can I run through it?

 

[neil_w]

Badger is still around... why not send them that picture and see if they can identify it and/or point you to instructions for it?

I'm sure you'll get other good input here, but can't hurt to see what you can get from the manufacturer.

 

[James Duffy]

That's a Badger 200 single-action airbrush, very similar in performance to the Paasche H and SI. In short, a good airbrush.

The critical thing to keep in mind is that an airbrush is not a replacement for spray paint, as it is intended for covering smaller areas, albeit with much greater control. I spray Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively, thinned 1:1 with the Tamiya acrylic thinner, and generally spray at 12-14 PSI. I clean between each use with plain old Windex. In humid areas you will definitely want a moisture trap on your air supply line (I use two, in fact).

Experiment with the airbrush extensively before attempting to paint model parts, as the learning curve is very steep. You can find some great tutorials on YouTube to help get started.

This 81% BT-55 Red Max was painted exclusively with Tamiya acrylics applied with a Paasche H airbrush.



James

 

[neil_w]

View attachment 450160

Something struck me about that paint job... then I remembered what I'm wearing.

 

[FishnBeer]

That's a Badger 200 single-action airbrush, very similar in performance to the Paasche H and SI.

James

Good eye! I could not read anything on the case, looks like it was hit was something caustic and ate the plastic but I wiped the dust off and it says 'model 200-1'. It has some patina on the outside of some parts but that cleaned up easy, inside looks good. Can I find these paints at Hobby Lobby?

 

[lakeroadster]

I'd suggest you check out some videos on YouTube.

Good Luck!

 

[Cape Byron]

Nice airbrush and I second @James Duffy with Tamiya acrylics. Nice paint, good colour selection and dries really fast.

The golden rule for thinning I was taught was "the consistency of milk".

 

[lakeroadster]

Nice airbrush and I second @James Duffy with Tamiya acrylics. Nice paint, good colour selection and dries really fast.

The golden rule for thinning I was taught was "the consistency of milk".

Whole, 2% or 1%... The wife drinks 1%.. looks like water.

 

[Cape Byron]

Whole, 2% or 1%... The wife drinks 1%.. looks like water.

Well, I drink soy milk which is neither milk nor particularly nice in coffee. The sacrifices we make when other people are the ones with high cholesterol...

Conceptually I think it would be whole milk, but with available varieties from "non-dairy coffee whitener" up to "bio-organic goats milk from animals fed bee pollen and milked by virgins from the Swiss alps" you take your pick.

Thicker than water, but thinner than cheese.

 

[neil_w]

Well, I drink soy milk which is neither milk nor particularly nice in coffee. The sacrifices we make when other people are the ones with high cholesterol...

Oatly is supposed to be very good in coffee, dunno if you can get it down there.

 

[lakeroadster]

Oatly is supposed to be very good in coffee, dunno if you can get it down there.

I like my coffee like I like my women. Bitter and Murky..

 

[Cape Byron]

I like my coffee like I like my women. Bitter and Murky..

There's a joke in here about "Instant" but I ain't touching it.

 

[Bowman]

I like my coffee like I like my women. Bitter and Murky..

I used to be married to Dark & Stormy.

Airbrush seems like a double challenge, artistic skill and then airbrush skill. Neither of which I can claim.
I bought my mom a set many years ago, I don't think she ever used it even though she DID have artistic skill and did oil painting.
I recall you could use a small compressor or pre-filled air cans.

 

[mcderek]

Badger 200 is a solid airbrush. One that is that old might need new valve o ring. Badger sells replacement parts and you can get a manual at the page below.

Badger 200 Webpage

 

[Bowman]

I noticed that Harbor Freight sells a kit for $169, is it worth that?

https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-6-color-airbrush-kit-with-holder-95923.html?

 

[James Duffy]

Can I find these paints at Hobby Lobby?

I seem to recall that Hobby Lobby carries the Vallejo line of paints, which have a very good reputation. I have not used them personally, and can't provide any anecdotal experience.

 

[lakeroadster]

There's a joke in here about "Instant" but I ain't touching it.

Yuban? No, You Banned!

(Please, don't touch it.. )

 

[James Duffy]

I noticed that Harbor Freight sells a kit for $169, is it worth that?

Those are probably terrible airbrushes.

Just buy a single Paasche H airbrush ($50ish for the starter set with color cup and tools) and a simple airbrush compressor ($100ish)

 

[mcderek]

I seem to recall that Hobby Lobby carries the Vallejo line of paints, which have a very good reputation. I have not used them personally, and can't provide any anecdotal experience.

The Vallejo line that Hobby Lobby carries is great paint for brush painting. Vallejo has another line called Vallejo Air formulated for spraying. You can spray the Hobby Lobby Vallejo but it must be thinned and a flow improver works wonders.

 

[Bowman]

Those are probably terrible airbrushes.

Just buy a single Paasche H airbrush ($50ish for the starter set with color cup and tools) and a simple airbrush compressor ($100ish)

What would you look for as a fault in them, Pattern, Atomizing or both?
Are those the things that define a good airbrush?
The HF kit is surely Chinese. Not that that's all bad but fine manufacturing seems to be where they fall flat.

 

[Cape Byron]

Just buy a single Paasche H airbrush ($50ish for the starter set with color cup and tools) and a simple airbrush compressor ($100ish)

The Paasche H is a fantastic airbrush, especially for the price. Single action external mix and does pretty much everything I want. Can't say enough good things about it.

 

[mcderek]

My 2 Badger airbrushes. The top is the 200 which I bought in 1985 or so. The bottom is the dual action 150. They work well.

 

[Cape Byron]

Yuban? No, You Banned!

(Please, don't touch it.. )

I've been hammered.

 

[mcderek]

The Paasche H is a fantastic airbrush, especially for the price. Single action external mix and does pretty much everything I want. Can't say enough good things about it.

Yes. I have one from a friend that is at least 50 years old. It still works fine as long as you don't try to much with it.

 

[James Duffy]

What would you look for as a fault in them, Pattern, Atomizing or both?
Are those the things that define a good airbrush?
The HF kit is surely Chinese. Not that that's all bad but fine manufacturing seems to be where they fall flat.

Airbrushes are odd little things, in that they are among the simplest tools in the world that require precision manufacturing. As such, consistency and parts availability are at the top of the list of desirable attributes.

I'm not one of those "China is bad" xenophobes, it's just that I have never heard of anyone having a good experience with a Chinese airbrush. Most of the available airbrush compressors, on the other hand, seem to come from China, and they all seem to work fine. Besides, you really don't need six airbrushes unless you're opening a custom t-shirt shop this summer at Myrtle Beach. <G>

James

 

[Cape Byron]

... I have never heard of anyone having a good experience with a Chinese airbrush.

Too true. I have a Chinese made double action airbrush in addition to the Paasche H. I can honestlt say if I had started with the DA airbrush I would have dropped the whole idea after a few days.

Incidentally I also have a very cool old Badger single action brush dating from prolly the 1970s. Still works like a charm. I might dig it out and get some pics.

 

[Woody's Workshop]

A buddies stepdad died. He was into 'live steam' and made steam powered trains and boats. Had a bunch of hobby related stuff and my buddy gave me a couple paint sprayers. I got a fullsize automotive sprayer and this little airbrush.

The instruction manual is pretty well rotten and can only make out the back page and it is a 'Badger' View attachment 450159dated march 1976. The sprayer looks dirty but not rusted or anything, I think I can clean it up and make use of it. I have a big shop air compressor but I figure that pressure is too high for this so I gotta turn the regulator down.... what pressure do these run at? How should I clean it? What paint can I run through it?

Go to Badger's web page, the manual will be a downloadable .pdf. Replacement needles, tips and seals are available if it needs to be restored. I don't know what model you have, but I can tell you it is NOT a 150. Max pressure is 50psi, but you will find anything above 30psi for a full open round pattern is pretty high.
In the manual (or another article) it will have beginners instructions. Plan on wasting some paint, thinner and time to get the technique of an air brush down.
You have a single action air brush. Meaning you press the trigger down for air and fluid flow. This is where practice, practice, practice, and more practice will come in to get the effect of the air brush you want to actually happen. When working properly, depending upon the size of the needle and head, you should be able to reach a 2-3 inch diameter down to a 1/16" pencil line.
You will also want to fool around with different rates of reduction of our color as this also plays into the effects you will get. Using an air brush to do detail work takes a long time. But if you just plan on using it like a tiny spray gun the learning curve should be quite short.
The instructions will have you doing dots, lines and other practice techniques. If you find it fun, you will succeed. If you find it frustrating, you don't have the patients for it.
Another thing to consider, is in the 70's Lacquer based mediums were the norm. I wouldn't hurt to replace the nylon seals. If the departed gentleman was into train modeling, most likely he started out with lacquer based products way back when, and after the FDA made changes he probably switched over to water based products. For a short time, enamels filled the gap, but highly unlikely he used them as train modeling uses flat colors.
Good Luck, and Have Fun!

 

[cobra1336]

I used to do hand lettering on cars, trucks, boats. The best way to practice is find an old glass window, try spraying patterns. Once its dry scrape it off with a razor blade and practice some more. If you want a challenge, spray your patterns then turn the glass around and try to duplicate it. It will be backwards. Make sure you have some kind of water separator in your line. Water is a paint killer with an airbrush.