Soft Links/Soft Shackle Source

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Thanks for the pic @Tractionengines !

I was looking at Braided Kevlar after @Ronz Rocketz asked where to get some this morning and I saw these:

Amazon > 9KM DELIFE Reverse Latch Needle 7pcs for Assist Cord Fishing Rigging Needle Kit Tool Set Accessories Ring Splicing (1~7#)

Gotta be better than the stripped copper e-match wires I've been using and definitely worth a shot at $5.99 :)

I was also going to go to Hobby Lobby to look at darning needles:

Hobby Lobby > Yarn Darner Needles - Size 14/18

Anyhow ... thanks again !

-- kjh
 
Thanks for the pic @Tractionengines !

I was looking at Braided Kevlar after @Ronz Rocketz asked where to get some this morning and I saw these:

Amazon > 9KM DELIFE Reverse Latch Needle 7pcs for Assist Cord Fishing Rigging Needle Kit Tool Set Accessories Ring Splicing (1~7#)

Gotta be better than the stripped copper e-match wires I've been using and definitely worth a shot at $5.99 :)

I was also going to go to Hobby Lobby to look at darning needles:

Hobby Lobby > Yarn Darner Needles - Size 14/18

Anyhow ... thanks again !

-- kjh
You might look at lacing needles in the leather section also. I’ve not done any Kevlar splicing, but I do use these for pulling different kinds of thread through holes that would be too small for a doubled thread. They have about a 3mm split on the back side that clamps down on the material instead of threading through an eye
 
A lot of the soft shackles offered are made from Dyneema. Super strong, but not really good with high temperatures of ejection charges. So my plan for a couple of forthcoming rockets are to use a wide kevlar strap out of the fin can extending out of the body tube (wide reduces zipper likelihood), fastened with a Kevlar soft shackle to a smaller shock cord. Like a 1/4 strap out of my Argent, fastened to a 1/8" kevlar shock cord. For the larger DX3, there's space for an eyebolt, so I'll use a stainless shackle to allow the flat tubular kevlar strap a place to mount without bunching (why go to the effort of using super strong materials, and then derate them with a knot? ). Eventually I'll probably use all soft shackles instead of quick links. Stronger, lighter, and they don't rattle around and damage paint and stuff.

Dyneema was not usable IMHO, and small kevlar shackles were hard to find so as a test I made a couple of kevlar shackles. From Emma's kites MBR 500 (2.1mm) kevlar. Shown in the picture. The tool I used was a length of old guitar string (a "B", or somewhere in the 0.013" range) bent in half with a reasonably sharp bend. One can pierce the outside of the cord with the bent end, snake the tool up the center of the cord, emerge from the cord at a desired point, and then feed the other strand into the wire loop. The loop can then be used to pull the second cord through the center of the first. I will probably get a small (2 or 3mm) hollow paracord "fid" to facilitate pulling tapered end sections of kevlar cord into the center of other cords.

The open loop shown uses a diamond knot, the closed one uses a rather artless figure 8. I think both work. In working shackles, my plan is to use an oysterman's stopping knot, as it is larger than a figure 8, and because one can adjust the knot more easily to get exactly the same size for each loop in a tightened shackle. BTW, the little fluff on the open shackle is not a snag, it's just a poor job dressing the end of the line left over after the diamond knot was tied.

The guitar string tool worked well enough that I'm going to likely make a couple and figure out how to put handles on them that will allow me to pull more easily. Also, I'll probably get some 750lb test (like 2.6mm?) kevlar for future shackles. The rule of thumb is that the shackles are rated at between 1.5 and 2.1 times the MBR of the cord itself. So I figure that shackles like the ones below (after some practice to ensure better, more uniform results) should be good for 750-1000lbs. The larger line will not only give a lot more strength (more than needed, probably), but also is easier to work with.

I was able to cut the kevlar with a razor, but not easily and not without dulling the razor (X-Acto knife). So I ordered the Jonard Optical Cable and Kevlar shears that @Tractionengines showed in the post above.

soft_shackles.jpg
 
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This might be a dumb question. Why would you want a soft link? I've never heard of them before.
Not dumb at all. Quick links are strong, reliable, and light weight, even in comparison (depending upon your cord size) to steel quick links. They are also made of soft cord, so you don't have heavy quick links rattling around damaging paint and parts after deployment. I was skeptical at first. Plastic stronger than forged steel? Yup.
My friend at work jumps out of airplanes with parachutes. Actually, its a French firm, he's French, so il saute d'un avion avec un parachute. Same thing. Turns out all the cool kids that parachute use these things in their kit. Maybe gives them the same or better reliability without any likelihood of gettting whapped in the chops by a 'biner on a cord.
Limiting factors now are 1) acceptance, 2) availability (in Kevlar at least, as the high temperature performance of stronger Dyneema is not proven, and 3) price.
Pros are that you can make them! It's fun! Some of the same techniques can be used to make loops in corded shock materials. And they're strong as heck. Even my shackles made with 2.1mm 500MBS are rated about 750 lbs, with a max working load of around 200 lbs. I agree that doubling a slightly longer shackle divides the load among each wrap, so that the knot faces 1/2 or 1/3 or (how many loops can you make?) 1/x lower force with doubling, as does the actual cord in the loop. I also think doubling the cord minimizes wiggle in the connection.
I like these things.

I'm thinking that the 2.3mm 700lb stuff will be adequate for almost anything I need.
 
Here is what I use to work with these sizes of materials. Kevlar scissors. Then the larger needle mostly, with the shorter one for detail work.
View attachment 636186

Big needle is 5" long x .075" diameter. The eye is .050" x .625". I did dull off the point, and then smoothed each end with needle files, and emery cloth. Then a little polishing with a scotch-bright pad. It works well for the 500, 700, 1000# kevlar. You can work it thru point first and then pull the tails. OR work it back thru the material eye first.

What your looking for is a long shank, then a long narrow eye. If the eye bulges out too big it's to much friction or will loose the tread. If the shank is not long enough, its hard to hold onto. And harder to get the 40-50x diameter Barry length.
@Tractionengines --

Found these plastic needles at Hobby Lobby in the 'Paracord Bracelet Stuff Aisle' last week for $1.99 per ( bought two ).

20240423_043000.jpg

The Yellow ones are 6-inches long -- just about right for a 72 -to- 1 bury in 2.3 mm / 750 Lb braided Kevlar Line ( after 'scruntching' the braided line ).

Work great ( much less fragile than my stripped e-match wire 'fid' ).

I also bought a pair of $0.99 serrated scissors at Harbor freight: GORDON Multi-Purpose Scissors.

They cut my 2.3 mm 9Km braided Kevlar like buttah ( :) for now -- until they dull :) )

Thanks again for the ideas !

-- kjh
 
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