Rustomleum Cobalt Blue

[danb]

Last night I was paint some of the Victory Junction rockets with rustoleum cobablt blue and copper metalic paints. This was over Rustoleum Gloss White.

Much to my dismay, both started to badly crackle over any where elmers or possibly CA was below. YIKES! No wI've got some emegrgency sanding to tackle!

Before I call customer service, anyone else seen this? I've used the combo before, but not over glue joints.

 

[Ted Cochran]

I feel your pain.

Just a guess here, but if the gloss white wasn't completely dry, it could cause that. In my experience, Rustoleum is particularly sensitive to that--if you don't recoat it within a couple of hours, you have to wait for days.

The reason it showed up mostly over glue might be because the white was more absorbed by bare wood and cardboard, and therefore drier, everywhere else.

--tc

 

[Handeman]

I think TC is right. IIRC the can reads that you should recoat within 2 hours or after 48 hours. That might not be on the Rustoleum can, but I know I read it on one of the rattle cans.

BTW if it's a little too cold for the paint to dry well, I have a cardboard box I used spray adhesive on to stick aluminum foil on the inside. I put the painted parts in there and turn on a flood lamp. That brings the temp up nice and the paint dries very well. Just be careful not to get the lamp too close. Besides the fire danger, the heat can do very bad things to the finish if it gets too hot. This also works to help epoxies set up faster, but how close the lamp gets is even more critical.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

I've had mixed results with Rustoleum paint. Where I have waited a week before recoating (if it wasn't within a hour), there has been fewer problems. But I have basically made the decision to quit using the standard versions, and go with Krylon until I get my airbrush booth back in service.

However, the tall Rustoleum cans (I think they call it Professional) have worked well for me. I've just used two colors -- white and "stainless steel". In fact, the latter I've clearcoated (Krylon Acrylic Gloss), with good results. Usually silver paints do not clear coat well.

 

[Micromeister]

I've had mixed results with Rustoleum paint. Where I have waited a week before recoating (if it wasn't within a hour), there has been fewer problems. But I have basically made the decision to quit using the standard versions, and go with Krylon until I get my airbrush booth back in service.
However, the tall Rustoleum cans (I think they call it Professional) have worked well for me. I've just used two colors -- white and "stainless steel". In fact, the latter I've clearcoated (Krylon Acrylic Gloss), with good results. Usually silver paints do not clear coat well.

Just to correct a little misconception Spaceman:

Metallic silver and gold paints have NEVER been a problem with clearcoating. IT's ONLY MIRROR finished Chrome or MIRROR Gold or Copper that dull with clear coating. Plain metallics like silver, gold, stainless, titanium and other METALLICS may darken slightly but are ok under almost any clearcoat.