Rustoleum Primer not compatible with Rustoleum Primer?

[degreaser]

But the plastic primer says you can top coat anytime after 1 hour. So what defines it as an enamel? Again, the can does not say it is an enamel.

Confused....

FWIW, here's the MSDS. It doesn't say enamel. It contains lots of different solvents.

From
https://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=379:

OVERVIEW:
Rust-Oleum® Plastic Primer prepares interior and exterior plastic surfaces for painting with most brands of automotive lacquers and enamels. If using an auto lacquer, a test application for compatibility is required.

View attachment 209460.PDF

 

[GregGleason]

I understand you can't put a lacquer over an enamel

I'm looking at the automotive primer can and I can't see where it states it is a lacquer. In says it is a good base for most lacquers and enamels, but to test any lacquers for compatability (it states you get best results with enamels)

Where does it say it is lacquer based?

But, bottom line - I've sanded it all down

You would have to look at the MSDS and look at the ingredient ratios of the "solvents package". If you see a "hotter" solvent like acetone, it's a lacquer.

For example, here are the ratios for the solvents package of Dupli-Color primer BPR0031:

[FONT=&quot] % Wt | Ingredient[/FONT]
31 | Acetone
14 | Methyl Ethyl Ketone ACGIH TLV
11 | Propane ACGIH TLV
11 | Butane
7 | Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate ACGIH TLV
6 | Talc
4 | Titanium Dioxide
2 | Toluene
2 | Calcium Carbonate
1 | 2-Propanol ACGIH TLV
1 | 2-Methyl-1-propanol ACGIH TLV


Greg

 

[degreaser]

If you see a "hotter" solvent like acetone, it's a lacquer.

Ok, it has that.

I guess it failed the compatibility test.

 

[plano-doug]

If you see a "hotter" solvent like acetone, it's a lacquer.

Not to mention 14% MEK

Doug

.

 

[bobkrech]

Just remember, it's the paint, not the primer, that's incompatible.

One of the solvents in the paint is attacking the primer.

Bob

 

[Sailorbill]

Just remember, it's the paint, not the primer, that's incompatible.

One of the solvents in the paint is attacking the primer.

Bob

Bob
Both were primers.

I have a plastic nose cone that I used the Rustoleum Plastic primer on.

It did not appear to be sandable, so I gave it a shot of regular Rustoleum primer and went to bed. I checked up on it in the morning, and the top primer is all crazed.

 

[degreaser]

Update - I applied a second plastic primer coat last night and sanded with 220 this evening. It's developing a very good primer base. The dust is very different from the first coat and feels more like normal primer dust - it's not at all slippery. One more coat, some Icing, sanding to 400 and I think it'll be good to go.

I wish they would tint it some color other than off-white.

 

[degreaser]

I was about to apply some Icing (tm) to my nose cone to fill in the parting lines but then I read the label - it can't be applied over lacquer based primers. :bangpan:

I'm trying some Bondo glazing putty instead. It has some pretty strong solvents present but I'll take that chance. It sands very easily as well.

Assuming all goes well, some sanding, one more primer coat and it'll be ready for paint.

 

[les]

FYI
I fully sanded mine down and used a different primer (Rustoleum self etching)
No issues

 

[degreaser]

Good to know. Could you post an image of the can or SKU?

 

[degreaser]

The glazing putty did a good job. It seems to adhere well to the primer and dries quickly. One more coat and it's done I think.

It seems a good long period between primer coats using the plastic primer works pretty well.

 

[o1d_dude]

I let my nose cone cure for about a week after priming it with the Plastic Primer. The label may say something about doing that.

Anyway, after hitting it with the sandpaper, I laid down a second coat of primer but this time I used the Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X white primer. No crackling so I sanded it again and gave it a third and final coat. After wet sanding the nose cone, it was as smooth as glass.

All things considered, I have to say the stuff works as advertised if you can wait the seven days to let it cure.

BTW, I painted the nosecone fluorescent pink. And the rest of rocket, too. BRIGHT!!

 

[o1d_dude]

I bought my rattlecan of Plastic Primer at the local Autozone store. Oddly enough, the cap is a light gray but the paint itself is pure white. Go figure.

I use only a single light coat of the Plastic Primer and let it cure for at least a week before I do anything else with it.

Next step is to sand it down and apply another coat of white primer. From that point forward, it's just another nose cone and follows the usual steps. With one notable exception (a balsa nosecone and Testor's Purple-Licious rattlecan paint), I've never had an issue with nose cones. They all have come out slick and glassy.

There's a snapshot of the most recent one ('Big Pink') attached. It's done in Rustoleum Fluorescent Pink with two Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel overcoats. The tube fin trim color is Rustoleum Metallic Midnight Black.

Maybe it's just luck but if so, I'd rather be lucky than good. :wink:

 

[Micromeister]

I have heard that alcohol sometimes leaves a residue behind...impurities in it or some such. Haven't used it so I don't have first hand experience.

NO alcohol does NOT leave a residue, Washing plastic in soap and water leaves a residue. Even 50% Alcohol is better the washing plastic parts in soap and water.

 

[Captain Ron]

Amazing, i must be lucky or something because I never had any issues using Rustoleum or Krylon rattle can paints. I wash all plastic pieces with dish soap and warm water, lightly sand just to knock off any shine, prime, lightly sand again with 600, paint.... set off to the side, clear coat next week...
For body tubes I use a cheese cloth or similar tacky cloth before priming or painting....
I never use a paint thinner or similar solvent before applying anything because that may cause an adverse reaction with your paint, such as "orange peel"

It helps to wash your hands often too, especially after having a slice of meat lovers pizza before handling anything

 

[KarlS]

Never use rubbing alcohol to clean parts. Use only denatured. Rubbing alcohol has an oil in it. Denatured does not.