Red Cross Launch contoller?

[McKailas Dad]

Suppose this will work for Estes D's, E's, and for composites? Its a 12 volt Rechargable Battery Charger. Its rated at 12V, at 8 amps output. I have no idea how many amps are necissary to fire the igniters for my new Aerotech 24-40...:confused2:

I found it in the 'clearance' section for pretty cheap...

I just Googled tractor batteries and found them to be from 9 to 32 amps. Heck, if 9amps will start a tractor, it should fire any composite, right?

 

[troj]

According to the AeroTech website, a Copperhead requires 12 volts at 3 amps, in order to fire. So, this little gizmo will work.

Now, that said, the question is how long it can deliver that current for? If you're only going to fire a couple Copperheads, it's probably okay. If you're going to use it for all your flights, including some Copperheads, then I'd question whether or not it has the endurance to do what you're looking for.

-Kevin

 

[powderburner]

Estes D and E motors, using Estes igniters, require the very same electrical power level that their A, B, and C motors require. The igniter is the same in all cases, and BP ignites at the same condition (it doesn't care what motor it's loaded in).

Quest BP motors will ignite the exact same way if you are using some extra Estes igniters. If you are using the older Quest igniters for BP motors, they should be fine. Apparently, the new Quest igniters ("Q2G2") require significantly less electrical power from the launch controller.

Igniters for mid- and high-power motors are a different critter. (Actually, many different types of critters.) You should refer to the manufacturer of the motor or igniter to see what they recommend. Dick's advice is good, and he raises a very important point about the duration of the electric pulse.

 

[Micromeister]

Jeff:
I highly recommend a Hobbico 7 amp/hr Gel-Cell for you perosnally launch needs. I purchased one from a local hobby shop in 1982 for around 17.00 bucks. In 2004 it finally would no longer hold a charge. I purchased a brand new one at a local hobby shop for 18.00 bucks. If it lasts as long as the first one I doubt I'll every buy another Launch battery for myself.

If you need a cheap charger Harbor Freight has a trickle charger that is PERFECT for Launcher battery maintainance. Our club uses them for all our systems, I have two myself for my own system batteries. as well as a few converted 12v 500 to 1000ma wall packs. either do the job well.
Hope this helps a little.

Ps Yeah Making the leather cases is an extra but It's just another something I do

 

[j.a.duke]

Suppose this will work for Estes D's, E's, and for composites? Its a 12 volt Rechargable Battery Charger. Its rated at 12V, at 8 amps output. I have no idea how many amps are necissary to fire the igniters for my new Aerotech 24-40...:confused2:

I found it in the 'clearance' section for pretty cheap...

I just Googled tractor batteries and found them to be from 9 to 32 amps. Heck, if 9amps will start a tractor, it should fire any composite, right?

I just use a 2.3ah (AH?) 12V Sealed Lead Acid or gel cell (I've got both in this size) battery with a modified Electron Beam controller (LED and leads to connect to the battery).

I've launched a scout pack twice through (30+ launches) with it, so I'm thinking that would do you just fine.

Cheers,
Jon

 

[McKailas Dad]

I will admit, electronics are not my specialty, and I find this quite odd. I charged up the unit per the instructions, it is charged by plugging it into a cigarette lighter type recepticle.

Now, checking voltage with a digital meter, I am getting 14.3 volts, steady, at the 12 volt 'output' of the unit. (a cigarette lighter recepticle under the round, red cap).

However, checking the voltage at the 'charging' (corded) end, it bounces from around 16.3 to almost 20 volts. It's like a pulsing voltage charge.

Would this bouncing voltage be a good or a bad thing? I am looking to light copperheads for my AT 24/40.

Or, should I use the steady voltage?

One more thing, how do I measure the output amperage? If I remember correctly, it needs a 'load' to check it, right?

I am certainly curious of the 'endurance' of this gizmo, it would be nice to have something to light them all day. It was around $20, so I won't be too upset if it doesn't work as planned. Although, I do still have the receipt

I do have a "Plan B"...Two, 7.2V NiMH packs from my old RC hobby. They are collecting dust anyway, I might as well use them for something.

Thanks again for info!

...............Plan A..................or...................Plan B..............?

 

[Rex R]

well my inclination would be to use whats on hand(r/c packs, to be specific a 12 cell pack comprised of two 6 cell packs in series(sub-c cells)). I would however change out the plugs . if I were to go out and buy a battery specifically for rockets it would likely be a 12v gel pack(note emergency lighting generally uses gel packs...and you can get them from a number of places(not sure but home depot might carry them)).
edit
found a 5 amphour 12v sealed lead acid battery for $30 at batteries plus(website) no doubt that with a bit more searching I could probably find a less expensive model .

 

[sylvie369]

found a 5 amphour 12v sealed lead acid battery for $30 at batteries plus(website) no doubt that with a bit more searching I could probably find a less expensive model .

7 amp-hour gel cell, $17:

https://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL370&P=ML

I wonder how bad the shipping is.

The charger is another $11. Excluding shipping, $28 for a new battery with charger.

I'll check on another option later this morning, and come back to you, Jeff. There may be an easier way to get set up with a good one here.

 

[qquake2k]

Ps Yeah Making the leather cases is an extra but It's just another something I do

I love the leather cases! What a nice touch!

 

[j.a.duke]

I will admit, electronics are not my specialty, and I find this quite odd. I charged up the unit per the instructions, it is charged by plugging it into a cigarette lighter type recepticle.

Now, checking voltage with a digital meter, I am getting 14.3 volts, steady, at the 12 volt 'output' of the unit. (a cigarette lighter recepticle under the round, red cap).

However, checking the voltage at the 'charging' (corded) end, it bounces from around 16.3 to almost 20 volts. It's like a pulsing voltage charge.

Would this bouncing voltage be a good or a bad thing? I am looking to light copperheads for my AT 24/40.

Or, should I use the steady voltage?

One more thing, how do I measure the output amperage? If I remember correctly, it needs a 'load' to check it, right?

I am certainly curious of the 'endurance' of this gizmo, it would be nice to have something to light them all day. It was around $20, so I won't be too upset if it doesn't work as planned. Although, I do still have the receipt

I do have a "Plan B"...Two, 7.2V NiMH packs from my old RC hobby. They are collecting dust anyway, I might as well use them for something.

Thanks again for info!

...............Plan A..................or...................Plan B..............?

Jeff,

I think you'll be just fine with the "12V" output end. My SLAs, though rated for 12V, usually deliver, when freshly charged, 13.5-14V. As they say, "close enough for government work". When run down, they deliver ~11V. Still plenty of voltage, but the real question is how much amperage will either of your plans deliver.

I think you'll have enough from the Red Cross option to ignite the Copperheads-needs significantly less power over time for an igniter than for a car.

Cheers,
Jon

 

[Handeman]

I will admit, electronics are not my specialty, and I find this quite odd. I charged up the unit per the instructions, it is charged by plugging it into a cigarette lighter type recepticle.

Now, checking voltage with a digital meter, I am getting 14.3 volts, steady, at the 12 volt 'output' of the unit. (a cigarette lighter recepticle under the round, red cap).

However, checking the voltage at the 'charging' (corded) end, it bounces from around 16.3 to almost 20 volts. It's like a pulsing voltage charge.

Would this bouncing voltage be a good or a bad thing? I am looking to light copperheads for my AT 24/40.

Or, should I use the steady voltage?

One more thing, how do I measure the output amperage? If I remember correctly, it needs a 'load' to check it, right?

I am certainly curious of the 'endurance' of this gizmo, it would be nice to have something to light them all day. It was around $20, so I won't be too upset if it doesn't work as planned. Although, I do still have the receipt

I do have a "Plan B"...Two, 7.2V NiMH packs from my old RC hobby. They are collecting dust anyway, I might as well use them for something.

Thanks again for info!

...............Plan A..................or...................Plan B..............?

Did you read the manual for the Red Cross unit. It is designed to "recharge" your car battery, not start your car. I would not trust this to supply enough amps to reliably launch rockets.

I've got this unit and it's great. Recharge it with a standard extension cord. Will actually jump start your car. Even charges your USB mp3 player.

 

[McKailas Dad]

Yea, it was a spontanious buy. I saw it in the clearance section, and I am a sucker for a 'good deal'. After buying it, reading the instructions, and seeing the (bad) reviews online, I found it was not as I expected. I will be returning it.

I am actually 95% done with 'Plan B', I need a couple more plug ends (Traxxas), and another lighted switch. I think I fried the switch (light) when I soldered it. My soldering skills are a bit rusty, and I overheated it. Chances of ever having to replace the switch are probably pretty slim, and if I 'wear out' the switch after a hundred launches, I'll get my moneys worth. I'm just going to be more carefull soldering the new one.

I'll start a post about it when it's done, if anything to give credit to the people who helped me through the design of it.

I know, theres already a bunch, but I'm going to make it a 'Launch Controller Building for Dummies' post. I definatly would have clicked on that....

 

[MrGneissGuy]

When I built my launch controller, I included a battery holder for 8 AA batteries, which worked fine in tests. I don't know how many launches I'll get out of it though, as I've not been using the AA batteries yet. I also designed it so that I could use an external battery source and I have 8, count 'em 8, 6 volt lantern batteries that my daughter needed last year for a school invention project.

So I have duck taped them together in pairs to wire them in series for my launch controller. I'm still on the first pair (this is not a club launch controller or anything, just for me and my daughters when we go out). I figure with those four sets of lantern batteries and just personal use, I should be good to go for a while.

But this does bring up another question I have regarding the AA batteries, when those lanterns do run down. I like using the rechargeable NiMH batteries for other items in our home, and figured I'd use those in my launch controller as well. But I noticed the NiMH are labeled as 1.2v instead of 1.5v, and that just doesn't add up to the same total when you put eight of them in series. Should I stay away from the NiMH or would they be fine? Keep in mind, I'm not using it for all day launches for a club or anything like that. Just me and my girls for a few hours of launches every now and then and so far, just Estes engines up to C, though it won't be long before we're putting a D or E in something.

 

[McKailas Dad]

I've launched D's with the Estes controller. It's not that it won't work, its because you are supposed to have a longer wire for higher power. I think its 30 feet. I'm pretty sure the NiMH (AA) sized batteries will work, but someone else will have to confirm that, but considering you went from 6 to 12v, going down to 9.6v would still be an improvement over original.

I've gotten many, many launches from one set of regular AA batteries in my Estes controller. When I finally changed the batteries, ignition seemed instantanious compared to what it was.

When I finish my new 14.4v controller, I imagine the A thru E motors will probably launch with the button pushed only half-way-down! :y:

 

[Rex R]

for BP motors you can get away with using 4 Ni(sub-c or larger) chemistry batteries, it is just a smidge slower, 8 AA in series should work fine for BP motors. for AP composits well I have no clue though I suspect that the current requirements might kill AA cells.