Price for repaired first articles without hardware?
$30
Price for repaired first articles without hardware?
On the other hand, if I have an opportunity to get some fixed up tomorrow, are there people who would rather skip getting the screws and the little wood pieces in order to get one this week?
Is there any chance of you making a variant of these that uses a normal switch? I'm personally not a fan of the magnetic switches.
+1 (9V compatible as well)
I like your design as is, Adrian, but I can wait until the capacitor's fixed. Thanks!
. Can you guys help me understand what would be valuable to you, so I can look into designing a product for it, because it wouldn't be the Power Perch any more.
I think I'm hearing that you do want to do that part of the av-bay work but you don't want to figure out which wires to stick into the Raven's existing terminals? Am I missing something? I want to understand where you guys are coming from.
Without the magnetic switch and battery, then all that's left would be a connector that would hook up to the Raven's existing connector, and it would still cost around $20. Several people have asked for this, and I'm afraid I still don't understand the motivation.
...
Please don't feel a need to defend yourself on any of these points I'm making.
I have no problem with using my Raven. I just thought since you asked I would convey the many concerns I hear from fliers about the Raven, and by the way, the majority of these don't even know Forums like this exist.
No one product can serve the needs of all. Even though you do come pretty close. LOL
Thanks Jim and Sampo. That's just the kind of feedback I was looking for. I already knew about people who want plug-and-play, and other people who want to keep wiring up 9V batteries and switches they're used to, but I'm learning that there's a lot of overlap between those two groups.Hi,
Jim explained the points in quite detail. My summary: Buy one Raven and a Perch for each rocket sled. Then you can wire them up once, and just switch the altimeter from rocket to rocket, without having to worry about the wirings going wrong.
This is added value even for those of us who are queasy about using magnetic switches and small lipos in large rockets. Adding a Raven per rocket is often out of the question, adding $20-30 per rocket sled is not so bad.
The ideal "perch" for this purpose would also have a separate terminal for the power input and possibly even one for the switch (may clean up connections, even though the switch can of course be put directly between the battery and perch). Having the power perch and this "dummy" perch would have me seriously considering the dummy, even for the same price.
Just my 2c ...
Sampo N.
1.44" x 2.54"
The good news is that I received 250 assembled Power Perches today.:w:
The bad news is that the polarized tantalum capacitor on all 250 was soldered on backwards. :sigh:
I'll see what my assembly company is going to do about it tomorrow. I need to wait for hardware and wood battery restraints anyway, so I'll try not to be too impatient. On the other hand, if I have an opportunity to get some fixed up tomorrow, are there people who would rather skip getting the screws and the little wood pieces in order to get one this week?
Yes, they're fixing them. There was a + sign on the silkscreen for the battery connector, next to the - end of the capacitor, that was the source of the confusion. I kept a number of the boards to flip the capacitor myself, and these are done and retested. Now I'm just waiting for the hardware and battery restraint pieces.
Hmm. Be sure to keep the Power Perch's mounting screws terminals isolated from your sled. Otherwise when you turn it on, that CF is going to get pretty warm. I recommend using nylon screws.My perches are on the way, yeah! And I have just the place for it to be used on this...
I do have to ask why you use CF on all of your boards. I know it looks cool, but being conductive really isn't a desirable characteristic in an e-bay.
Hmm. Be sure to keep the Power Perch's mounting screws terminals isolated from your sled. Otherwise when you turn it on, that CF is going to get pretty warm. I recommend using nylon screws.
Umm, Adrian, why would you make the mounting screws hot? Very (VERY) BAD design practice!!! If not floating, mounting screws should ALWAYS be ground!!!!
dixontj93060 said:Umm, Adrian, why would you make the mounting screws hot? Very (VERY) BAD design practice!!! If not floating, mounting screws should ALWAYS be ground!!!!
Except that he has already said its done to provide for switched power to another device. The existing magnetic switch is the same way, I do believe.
It's a valid point that people may not be expecting this feature, so I'll be sure to point out the implications in the user manual.
Adrian, yes please point out the hot and grounded mounting locations specifically.
...We all can tell when a carpenter builds an av-bay, or an electrician, or a mechanic. We can really tell when an engineer does one! They all do it based on personal experience and training.
There is no right or wrong way. They all work, but boy what a difference. Anyone reading this know exactly what I mean!
Always reasons, sure... But bad design practice none the less. I would have skewered any of the 170 engineers that used to work for me if the did such.
Seems a bit harsh.
Well, maybe... But we designed large, high speed switching equipment that had six-nines uptime expectations. At one time 85% of all US data/voice traffic traveled across our switches. With that application and set of critical requirements you cannot afford to compromise or randomly change convention/design practice.
Well, maybe... But we designed large, high speed switching equipment that had six-nines uptime expectations. At one time 85% of all US data/voice traffic traveled across our switches. With that application and set of critical requirements you cannot afford to compromise or randomly change convention/design practice.
I WANT!! Gonna have enough for all of us???
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