Paint finish

[Matt]

how do you guys do it I can never seem to get that finish you's get on your rockets do you prime the rocket first then paint it than laminate it or something like that can you please tell me

 

[Quasar]

This is how I get a good gloss finish. I mount the rocket on a stick that I can hold in my hand. Then I break the "multiple thin, light coats" rule by spraying on a thick heavy coat of paint, thick enough that it's wet, perfectly smooth, and would run if set down to dry. The trick is that I rotate the rocket horizontally in my hands for about 10-15 minutes so as not to allow the paint to run. After that amount of time, the paint should be set up enough that it won't run (depending on paint brand, of course) and it will retain most of the gloss of when it was wet. It's kind of a pain, but usually one or two coats is all it takes to get good coverage.

 

[Micromeister]

Matt
I think I've given this answer before, so instead of a very long post. Please visit www.Narhams.org. web site. Go to the library. look up Tech-tip 002, filling body seams,003 Fins, and 004 Paints and finishes. Let me know if you have any additional questions or your models don't come out smooth as glass

 

[wyldbill]

Couldn't find http:\\Narham.org or http:\\www.Narham.org .....

 

[Mike]

It's www.narhams.org note the s.

 

[Stymye]

some things that I have tried/learned lately

scotchbrite pads.....and good quality wet dry sandpaper

wetsanding the final primer coat

one very light coat at first allows you to add much heavier coats afterwards..(spinning optional)

krylon is my favorite but not the best paint for a high gloss finish
and krylon krystal clear is not very crystal clear either

humidity will make the best effort even harder

oh The new NAR member guide magazine has an extensive article on finishing..(I wish there had been more new articles added) but this is a good one.

also try a search of this forum for alot of good tips

 

[Chilly]

I use Krylon and have gotten a lot of compliments on the finish. A couple of people even asked if I'd airbrushed them.

Something I'm still experimenting with to fill seams is apply a heavy coat of sandable primer, then sand it back down to almost nothing. It should leave the seams filled in with primer, then clean off the dust and apply a new "first" coat. Sand lightly, then apply a final coat of primer. Rub it down with a soft cloth when dry.

I just lay 'em down on some newspaper in the garage and paint lightly in sections. So far it's given me nice even finishes, but it probably does take longer than rigging a vertical stand.

I've been disappointed with Krylon clear-coat too. It's pretty dull, which is ok for scale kits but it really took the shine off my Arreaux.

 

[astrowolf67]

On my last few projects, I've used Kilz spray primer. I start by spraying a couple of coats on the spirals and fins only, sand them smooth, then a couple of coats on the whole rocket. Let it dry for a few days, and sand smooth. Then start with normal priming and painting. The best finishes I've had have been with Duplicolor, or Plasti Kote spray paints from automotive stores. I spray a couple of light color coats, let it get tacky, then a good finish coat. After that dries, I clear coat with the same technique.

 

[jpasqual]

In order to get a better flow of paint - I put the spray can in warm water for about 5 minutes - something I read in a modelling magazine - works great

 

[crashinj]

Well I just tried the soaking the can in warm water for about 5 minutes and seemed to help, tnx jpasqual. Now Quasar, I tried your idea too after wet sanding my Funnel Rocket I dried it off, wiped it down and proceeded to hose it down with white gloss paint. Then I sat on the steps while waiting for the charcol in the grill to get ready turning it, and turning it, and turning it, and turning it. Man, that was pretty boring, but looks like a really good paint job. Now I'll let it set for 3-4 days then mask it off and add some color. Thanks for the tips guys.

CrashinJ

 

[sandman]

Crashin,

Wait more than 3 or 4 days!

My rule of thumb is take a deep breath and smell the finish...if you can smell fresh paint...wait a couple of more days.

If you're not sure...wait a couple of more days!

In other words...wait a couple of more days!

sandman

 

[crashinj]

Ok Sandman I get the message. I'll take your advice, espicially since I'm not in any hurry. You see I've got this Ping Pong ball laying around here tempting me, actually there is a Crayon too. Now what can I do??? Yeppers Micromaxx stuff for sure.

CrashinJ

 

[pjbatglen]

How do you wet sand? Is the paper wet and you just keep it damp, Or do yo imerse the tube in water. Is a sand paper sponge better at this point?

Thanks in advance.

Paul.

 

[sandman]

Get several grits of the BLACK wet/dry sandpaper (it'll say "wet/dry on it).

220 is pretty aggresive when sanding wet. Be careful with it!

320 is better

400 is fine finish

600 is best for a really smooth finish just before you paint and between paint coats.

I use a container of water and a small piece of sandpaper and keep dipping the paper in the water to keep it wet. The water washes away the sanded particles and keeps the sandpaper from filling up.

I also keep some paper towels handy to wipe and check my progress.

The model must be completely primed...paper and balsa HATE water. And be careful if you sand through the primer. stop and reprime...it'll make a mess of the paper tube.

I use a heavy pigment primer (automotive type) like Bondo brand spray primer.

Hope that helps

sandman

 

[jpasqual]

What about paint - I hear so much about different brands of paint -Krylon, Tremclad etc. Has anyone had experience with epoxy paints - are they worth the money. What about airbrushing - I heard this gives the best finish. Acrylics or Enamels - Which way to go. So many questions - can we talk about this

 

[sandman]

My experience with epoxy paint is limited.

What I have found is that for a mono color paint scheme it's fantastic! (all white or all black with just decals for trim)

Durable, tuff finish, nice and thick to cover most imperfections. sometimes thick enough to make tube spirals dissapear!

Unfortuntely you can't paint it over ANY other paint...NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

It will attack anything...even primer and itself! No matter how long you wait!

And...almost every other kind of paint attacks it!

I learned that hard way!

Limited colors too.

As for other types of paint...well stick with one brand...especially if there is the possibility you might run out during a project, you'll wanna get more of the same brand.

Cheaper can sometimes be better...but not always.

I just started using an airbrush...don't know how I got by without one before! I love it. An airbrush is not real efficient for larger jobs though. Coverage is fairly thin with an airbrush but, this can be a good thing.

Automotive paint is very good stuff to work with...not cheap...but a HUGE variety of colors. The metallic colors are GREAT! Unlike regular enamel, automotive matellic paints LOVE clear coats. Testors Clear Cote works great and is compatible with all automotive paints.

As for durability, automotive paint is not very "flexible" so if you have a hard landing or an overzealous ejection charge you will get cracks in the finish.

sandman

 

[Mike]

What sort of paint goes in an airbrush?

 

[sandman]

An airbrush can use just about anything that can be thinned enough to go through it.

Latex, enamal, laquer...chicken soup (no noodles please) anything really!

The trick is to practice your tecnique with plain water first on a piece of cardboard.

sandman

 

[KermieD]

Acrylics vs. Enamels:

Given the choice, budget, and TIME (time usually being the key factor), I prefer acrylics. They can be partially sanded and recovered if you get a run. Enamel doesn't sand well at all, so if you screw up, be prepared to sand back to nothing and go through a snotload of sandpaper in the process as enamel gums it all up in a hurry. That being said, Krylon is enamel and it's the fastest drying, easiest stuff to use on the planet, so if you're like me and push your finishing off to the last second, you're stuck with it a lot of the time.

Don't ever ever ever try to cover an enamel paint with an acrylic one. Ick.

 

[lalligood]

I found Micromister's paint finishing document at https://www.narhams.org/library/tech/004-Paint_Finishing.pdf to be a blueprint for success (Big thanks to Micromister! ).

I recently posted a thread on Krylon paint clouding (aka "blushing") up on my PML Phobos. The 3M Finesse-It II that he recommends wonderfully removed the humidity blushing & overspray. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.

Take a look for yourself!

 

[Stymye]

I would have to agree Lalligood,,,, that puppy looks great!

dont forget a launch pic..Heh!

 

[jpasqual]

Sandman - a few posts back you talked about thinning paint for an airbrush - What do you use for a mix ratio - 50:50 or something else? I'm always looking for the perfect paint job. One other thing - prepping your rocket is so important - Cleaning your rocket with Windex and a lint free cloth takes the oil away and helps the paint adhere so much better . Minor stuff but helps alot - check this article I found in Rocketry online -gives a good description of how to's - much more than just painting

https://www.info-central.org/index.cgi?finishing

 

[sandman]

Well, the Testors paint has a special pait thinner for airbrushing and is says what to do right on the can.

No special trick there.

You just gotta experiment I guess.

sandman

 

[Mike]

I just bought myself an airbrush this afternoon. It came as a starter set with lots of accessories and big can of propellant all for £30.

The airbrush is single action and made my Revell, I've just put a first coat on my Polaris with it and it was very nice to use. Went on pretty thinly as Sandman said, which is good, as you have to try pretty hard to get it to run!

 

[Mike]

Originally posted by Mike
Went on pretty thinly as Sandman said, which is good, as you have to try pretty hard to get it to run!

OK I take that back. You can get it to run, just hold the airbrush closer to the model and it will run quite nicley, I learnt that the hard way.