Oh boy, here we go

[Andy Greene]

Okay , this probably isn't the place for this, but in fear of being another newb making the fatal " paint " ???
I figured I would go ahead and put it in here so I could be properly beaten :neener:

Anyway, the search wouldn't have helped this one anyway- I hope.
Is it just me or does this Olive Drab seem "off " in shade ??? Its only the first heavy coat -but.

 

[MClark]

It is difficult to judge color from a photograph.
Paint a sample coupon and hold it against a surface that is the correct color, like an army truck

M

 

[Rex R]

there are(or at least there were) several shades of OD paint in use, the shade pictured I've seen on trucks.
rex

 

[Andy Greene]

This is was I was trying to get close to-

 

[shrox]

Kitty!

The color of the rocket looks about right after sitting in the sun for a few months at a base outside Phoenix.

 

[Getmore]

Andy if you want it darker you can paint it flat black then go with the OD green over the black. You will like that better.

 

[Peartree]

What color was the primer (or if there is no primer, what color was it before you painted it)? If the color was light, often times a second coat will be a shade or three darker.

 

[shreadvector]

https://www.colorserver.net/

https://www.colorserver.net/articles/info_fs595_history.htm

https://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=34088

 

[Andy Greene]

Kitty!

The color of the rocket looks about right after sitting in the sun for a few months at a base outside Phoenix.

Kinda what I wanted :wink:

Getmore- more coats ?? . I'm ready to get Marks stuff on it NOW... lmao

Peartree- It was light grey primer- so I will keep that in mind.

Andy

 

[luke strawwalker]

It is difficult to judge color from a photograph.
Paint a sample coupon and hold it against a surface that is the correct color, like an army truck

M

Exactly... lighting and the camera can play a HUGE role in how the actual color data is stored in a digital photograph (and the emulsion of color film can have similar problems).

Then there's the actual rendering of the photograph, either digitally or as a print or slide-- how it displays on my monitor might be COMPLETELY different from how it looks on my TV, a different computer's monitor, or someone else's monitor... Too many variables to judge colors accurately, especially between multiple viewers using different systems...

Then of course, the eye plays tricks too-- in bright lighting, light colors look brighter and dark colors look darker... and in dimmer lighting, they're all more muted and subdued. The background also plays heck with color perception as well-- light backgrounds make darker colors look darker than they actually are, and dark backgrounds make them look more "realistic" or true to form... similarly, dark backgrounds make light colors look lighter than they are, while light backgrounds make them look "truer"...

Then, when you're talking about paint, there's subtle variations in color anyway-- the colors are blended and there are usually minute variations in the actual shade or color... expanding on this, there are the effects of scale (larger objects generally appear 'darker' than they actually are) and of course the effects of sun bleaching and weathering tends to change colors over time, or create weathered layers of oxized paint that are generally lighter in color than the original fresh paint was...

Later! OL JR

 

[Andy Greene]

Clear as mud now OL JR , knew I could count on someone :wink:

 

[adrian]

I had a look at both photos with Photoshop. Both shades have red slightly higher than green, with blue several points lower; exact values depend on where I'm pointing, e.g. a fin which is more square on to the light and is brighter, or a part of the body which is slightly shaded and therefore darker. I'd say that once you make allowances for different lighting in the two photos, plus the effect of long exposure to sunlight already mentioned, they're close enough to being the same. You'll also probably get a slightly different shade in the next can of what's supposed to be the same paint.

 

[luke strawwalker]

Clear as mud now OL JR , knew I could count on someone :wink:

LOL This comes up from time to time, and basically, posting a pic of a color alone and asking someone else on the computer if it's correct is pointless, because the color they're seeing may NOT accurately be the same as the color your posting... and the color the camera is recording for you to post may not accurately represent the color that's actually there... make sense??

Now, if you posted a pic of a COLOR CHIP, or a sample of the "real thing" ALONG WITH the color you're trying to show... THEN you can make a "fairly accurate" comparison between the two-- IF they're in the same photograph-- because remember, the camera's settings will change from one photo to another... for instance, taking a picture of an actual display missile outdoors on a bright day will show you a COMPLETELY different shade of color compared to the SAME object on a cloudy day... and of course the background lighting and color plays a big part in that too... even how close the item is to the camera lens... probably the most "accurate" color representation is gained by focusing in on ONE SMALL PART of the color you're trying to film, SO THAT IT FILLS THE ENTIRE FRAME, under direct sunlight, and snapping the pic... that way the camera will be "seeing" all the same color and will not make as many changes to account for background lighting and focus that tends to shift the color tones...

I sorta went through all this in my "Dr. Zooch Space Shuttle" thread, when I did a lot of research on duplicating the External Tank colors, and did numerous paint tests...

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...Return-To-Flight-Space-Shuttle-build-thread-2

I posted these pics comparing an actual sample of 'spray foam' (similar to that used on the shuttle tanks, which had been exposed to months of solar UV light, darkening it considerably as the actual ET's do)...

https://www.rocketryforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3713&d=1237609508

https://www.rocketryforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3714&d=1237609572

See how having the "original" in the same pic makes a more "accurate comparison" of the two different colors, since they are BOTH being photographed by the same camera, using the same white balance, color saturation, lighting, etc. at the same time??

Later and good luck! OL JR

 

[Andy Greene]

LOL This comes up from time to time, and basically, posting a pic of a color alone and asking someone else on the computer if it's correct is pointless, because the color they're seeing may NOT accurately be the same as the color your posting... and the color the camera is recording for you to post may not accurately represent the color that's actually there... make sense??


Later and good luck! OL JR

Perfect, I was just being a wise guy,:wink:
its close enough LMAO ...... Thanks guys.
Darn newbie

 

[BEAR]

If you start researching mil-specs for paints, you should be able to find the paint match specs for the formula of the paint. Such as 35% black, 45% forest green, etc. I have done this in the past when trying to verify the certs for paints that we received at the machine shop matched to mil-specs in the contracts. If your research is intense enough, you can find the contract on the internet for the Hawks, which will describe the mil-specs that it has to be manufactured to. If this will be your first time, it will seem overwhelming, but it gets easier as you do it more frequently. You can also get copies of the contracts from FoIA. That will tell you everything.

 

[MG13]

Don't get bogged down on correct shades of OD, as there aren't (outside the technical MILSPEC description). The modeller's gnash and wail about it, but it is going to vary. I think your rocket looks great, and I immediately thought OD. I can tell you from my military experience that there were noticeable differences in virtually all vehicles and buildings all the time. And you'd find a MILSPEC approval on all of them...

 

[Rocketbuilder]

Well, it looks like your question has been pretty well answered, but I have to ask: Is this a TLP kit? And will it fly next month? I've got a Kormoran still in the bag, but I doubt it'll be done by then.

 

[Fred22]

Its OD green and thats good enough. i have seen two LAWS rockets sit side by side in the same crate and be slightly different in colour. It is the government after all lol
cheers
fred

 

[sandman]

This is the closest I've found. Lots of different shades available but they are all flat colors. No gloss.

Found a big display at my local Ace Hardware.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Rus...44,d.eWU&fp=9bef8985fc824491&biw=1024&bih=673

 

[Andy Greene]

Well, it looks like your question has been pretty well answered, but I have to ask: Is this a TLP kit? And will it fly next month? I've got a Kormoran still in the bag, but I doubt it'll be done by then.

No its a MadCow- 29mm 2.6 Tube
It will be ready for sure, but it also happens to be the weekend before our biggest Dist RC Boat race and I need to test bad.My boats have been sitting since I have been flying out there with you guys at Varn.

 

[Andy Greene]

This is the closest I've found. Lots of different shades available but they are all flat colors. No gloss.

Found a big display at my local Ace Hardware.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Rus...44,d.eWU&fp=9bef8985fc824491&biw=1024&bih=673

Thats what it is sandman-
Thanks again guys. Gotta stop over thinking the stuff that dont matter. Now for that gloss question :y::y::y:





GOT YA ............

 

[Spooks]

Thats what it is sandman-
Thanks again guys. Gotta stop over thinking the stuff that dont matter. Now for that gloss question :y::y::y:





GOT YA ............

*shudders*

Good one!! LOL

 

[sandman]

It's difficult to find the correct color in gloss so I don't.

Instead I use Testors Gloss Cote over the flat paint before I apply decals (that is if you are using waterslide decals). Followed by a coat of Testors Dull Cote.

For vinyl decals...I can't help you there.:eyeroll:

 

[terryg]

I went with the Rustoleum camo on my hawk. Real easy to touch up after flight scuffs and bumps. Consider adding the wireing channels as an easy detail. I used screen molding with the tips filed to a point.

 

[JPVegh]

Looks good to me...

 

[shreadvector]

https://www.colorserver.net/

https://www.colorserver.net/articles/info_fs595_history.htm

https://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=34088

Did anyone use this basic information I provided?

 

[Pantherjon]

I don't know, but,from my 12 years of being in Uncle Sam's Army it looks to be about spot on..'Olive drab' doesn't have the real heavy green tint most people expect..Looks right to me..

 

[troj]

BTW, comparing colors on a monitor to colors sitting in front of you won't work, unless you've gone to the effort of calibrating your monitor and driver....and that requires special hardware and software.

There's also the fact that every output device has different limitations on what it can and cannot display (the term for this is "gamut").

As an example, there is a difference between the colors that can be produced on an RGB device (which most monitors are) versus CMYK devices.

So, if you're comparing a digital picture on your computer to another digital picture of the item you want to match....all bets are off.

-Kevin

 

[dlazarus6660]

Are you missing a nose cone?

 

[Pantherjon]

Are you missing a nose cone?

The old 'new' Ramjet HAWK missile that never got fielded!:roll:

BTW, spent 4 of my 12 years in a HAWK Battery..I worked on the radars but saw plenty of the missiles in my time..All of the 'dummy' missiles we had were more grey then anything else..