Scotty Dog
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OK,I have to ask. Seems Im not getting this.. What does the second number on a RMS represent. I have the Aerotech RMS-18/20. So,whats the 20?
Yes ,it does help. Thanks.AFAIK,
the 20 in the RMS 18/20 refers to the max Newtons a reload can have in that particular casing, but that seems to be a rounded-off number.
The RMS 29/40-120 is designed to use reloads that range from 40N to 120N or thereabouts. Basically, the E to G range.
Does that help?
G.D.
The deal is,I got the 18/20 kit from the July SS. I didnt open the package yet.It says "Do Not Open",so I cannt figure out how Im going to get to use them.....AAAAAA...Im Just kidding Anywhoo-I did some looking around about reloads.Not much but some.But for whatever reason I just didnt find the info on what the numbers represented. Guess it was a case of "If ya stepped over it,ya still wouldnt see it" :eyeroll:gdiscenza has it right.
See the data from the published AeroTech catalog:
Greg
PS: I just realized that the Hobby Line RMS has been around for 20 years now.
At this time I have the D13-7 reloads. You mention rockets designed for the 18/20. I had posted that I have the D13-7 and it is my first time owning an RMS.I asked about what would be a good rocket to use the D13-7 in. The Big Bertha was one.Well, I have the pieces parts from Semroc to build the Centurion. Seems to be close in size and weight.Any thoughts on this idea.Also,if this is a good choice,should I concider skining the fins and using epoxy when building it. What other rockets you would recommend? ThanksThe RMS motors can be a little startling even if you are used to them. The sound of a D24 launching always catches me off guard even though I've seen dozens of them launch. You just don't expect that noise from an 18mm motor. Lots of fun!
Back in the good old days there were more choices for the 18/20. The C12 was my favored load for many stock Estes kits. The E27 was barely an E but I know lots of folks liked them for that few extra newtons of thrust. Aerotech has teased us with the idea of a D3 coming in the future however the silence coming from AT on this is deafening. The last time I posed the question of a D3 on the AT facebook page it was implied that it might come in the form of a plugged RC case.:cry:
My 18/20 doesn't get used too often these days but I still have a few loads in my box and I have a few rockets that were built specifically for the motor. Maybe at the next launch. It really is a cool motor, have fun with it.
At this time I have the D13-7 reloads. You mention rockets designed for the 18/20. I had posted that I have the D13-7 and it is my first time owning an RMS.I asked about what would be a good rocket to use the D13-7 in. The Big Bertha was one.Well, I have the pieces parts from Semroc to build the Centurion. Seems to be close in size and weight.Any thoughts on this idea.Also,if this is a good choice,should I concider skining the fins and using epoxy when building it. What other rockets you would recommend? Thanks
I wonder how a Mars Lander would do on this?At this time I have the D13-7 reloads. You mention rockets designed for the 18/20. I had posted that I have the D13-7 and it is my first time owning an RMS.I asked about what would be a good rocket to use the D13-7 in. The Big Bertha was one.Well, I have the pieces parts from Semroc to build the Centurion. Seems to be close in size and weight.Any thoughts on this idea.Also,if this is a good choice,should I concider skining the fins and using epoxy when building it. What other rockets you would recommend? Thanks
imo most lpr kits/rockets are a lot stronger than we tend to give credit to, that said if built with reasonable care it will do fine with wood glue. the biggest problem area will likely be the motor mount, a little epoxy here would not be a bad idea. papering the fins will help reduce landing damage as well as hide the grain. my .02
rex
OK,I see Aerotech has the (W) and (T) motor reloads for the 18/20.Back to the original question- the "second number" for the 18mm, 24mm and the 29mm 40-120 are somewhat superfluous. Each of these casings has certain reloads available for it and you can get a general idea of the total impulse by the letter designation of the reload. Or you can look up the specifics of that particular reload to see what its exact implulse is.
In the case of the larger cases, the second number actually relates to the length of the case and to some extent the maximum size reload that will work in it. For instance when I got my L1 I bought the 38mm/480 case and the 38mm/240 tube for it. I can use an H reload in the 38/240 and an I reload in the 38/480. There are other case lengths available for 38mm and would let me use different reloads because not all H reloads are 240 and not all I reloads are 480. I can use the same end closures with either of my tubes.
The nozzle on a D13 is pretty small and if you use the supplied Copperhead igniters, the head with the pyrogen won't fit through so you have to put the igniter in during assembly.correct...as far as that goes, I choose 1st for thrust profile and 2nd by propellent type. as I understand it blueThunder and Whitelightning are the easiest to ignite. I can't imagine how small the nozzle would be for an 18mm smokey .
Well thank you. I hoping to be there Sat.We will see.As we all know "Poop Happens"The nozzle on a D13 is pretty small and if you use the supplied Copperhead igniters, the head with the pyrogen won't fit through so you have to put the igniter in during assembly.
Scotty Dog.... If you need an igniter that will fit through a D13 nozzle, come see me at the next CMASS launch.
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