And, I guess, you can draw directly on it then wipe it clean when you're done.
Indeed! And when my two boys are painting, that wipes up as well.
And, I guess, you can draw directly on it then wipe it clean when you're done.
@neil_w, of course you knew that asking TRFers for advice would result in two pages of disparate answers.
I was counting on it.@neil_w, of course you knew that asking TRFers for advice would result in two pages of disparate answers.
IIRC, the first cut is free and followon cuts are something like $5 each.I was counting on it.
Right now I am leaning towards 1/8" hardboard if HD will cut it for me. It's not a big investment, I can always switch if it doesn't work out.
Peel-and-stick vinyl tile is still intriguing to me as well, but I'm going to start with the hardboard.
If you can get some that isn't ludicrously priced, absolutely!!!Glossy Formica laminate.
I'll disagree Greg, but I'm an OldGuy™. Hardboard/masonite has a hard, glossy, flat surface that is incomparable for a smooth workbench. Sanding will probably make it worse, not better. Masonite used to sell 4x4 1/8" boards that were perfect; are those even available any more?No matter what your final surface ends up being I'd sand the surface. The hardware stores in my area rent tools at a reasonable price. I'd use an orbital sander as it is the easiest to use and very forgiving unlike a belt sander. If you are gluing a new surface on this will make the bonding better and won't telegraph the roughness especially if it is something thin. 1/4" tempered Masonite is tough as hell.
I think he was talking about sanding the bench top before putting down hardboard or other surface.I'll disagree Greg, but I'm an OldGuy™. Hardboard/masonite has a hard, glossy, flat surface that is incomparable for a smooth workbench. Sanding will probably make it worse, not better. Masonite used to sell 4x4 1/8" boards that were perfect; are those even available any more?
Thanks, apparently I misunderstood. That would seem a lot of effort. Perhaps smearing the bench surface with two-part Bondo, smooth it, and add hardboard before it hardens.I think he was talking about sanding the bench top before putting down hardboard or other surface.
I'm talking about having a somewhat smooth surface for the Masonite to sit on.I'll disagree Greg, but I'm an OldGuy™. Hardboard/masonite has a hard, glossy, flat surface that is incomparable for a smooth workbench. Sanding will probably make it worse, not better. Masonite used to sell 4x4 1/8" boards that were perfect; are those even available any more?
It would take maybe less than an hour to sand the particle board smooth. 60 or 80 grit would take it down fast.Thanks, apparently I misunderstood. That would seem a lot of effort. Perhaps smearing the bench surface with two-part Bondo, smooth it, and add hardboard before it hardens.
My workbench is 1.25" MDF. The screws are countersunk and when I'm routing something I'll cut into the surface. Or drilling something. The fix is mixing up some epoxy like WEST of TotalBoat and adding a thickener and spreading it into the indents. After curing I take my belt sander and sand the epoxy flat to the MDF surface. I haven't replaced the MDF for maybe 30 years.I made several workbenches with a two-layer 3/4” MDF top, glued and screwed with screw heads countersunk just slightly. I placed a 1/8” tempered Masonite sheet (the really dark brown stuff) on top (smooth both sides) with double-sided tape on one table at the edges and glued with solvent-based contact cement on the other. Trimmed the Masonite with a flush-trimming router bit so the edges were flush. Then edgebanded the package with 1/2” birch hardwood attached with Titebond III and flush trimmed, then edges hit with a 1/8” round-over bit and finished with diluted varnish used as a wipe-on finish then smoothed with steel wool.
The glued Masonite I finished with four coats of satin Zar varnish sanded between coats, then buffed with hard wax. Water-based glue does not stick.
The other table with the taped Masonite I finished with a couple coats of Zinnser brushing shellac to make it semi water-resistant. This Masonite is essentially sacrificial and easily replaced if I ding it up.
The double layer of MDF adds significant weight and stability.
@prfesser, I'm an old guy too. 73 years & doing pretty good.I'll disagree Greg, but I'm an OldGuy™. Hardboard/masonite has a hard, glossy, flat surface that is incomparable for a smooth workbench. Sanding will probably make it worse, not better. Masonite used to sell 4x4 1/8" boards that were perfect; are those even available any more?
But part of the idea, for Neil, was to avoid using power tools so that he doesn't have to buy one along with buying the new top layer material.It would take maybe less than an hour to sand the particle board smooth. 60 or 80 grit would take it down fast.
and call it done.Perhaps smearing the bench surface with two-part Bondo, smooth it...
Hmmmm..... a bit expensive but very appealing. I'm a little annoyed my searching didn't turn this up earlier.This is what I have and love it. Like having a self healing cutting mat on my workbench...
https://www.uline.com/BL_2820/Workbench-Mats
Yes.Is Masonite a brand of hardboard?
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