Motor hard coat anodizing with Teflon

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Larry W

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Hi Team. I sent out a few cases to be anodized. Two Iam having regular color sealed anodized like most we see today. Two Iam having hard coat anodized similar to the AMW cases if you remember they were an off shade of gray green color. That makes the surface about 70 Rockwell. I always liked AMW cases and have many.

Well the company mentioned hard coat with Teflon which he said would make cleaning a lot easier. I am having two done that way.

Has anyone had experience with it. They are saying that dimensionally it won't be different than the Regular hard coat.
 
We had hardcoat anodizing parts which was sealed using a teflon based sealing bath. Now teflon decomposes above 400F. It won't hurt anything except perhaps your wallet depending on the upcharge.
 
Teflon is a brand name and is made from Polytetrafluoroethylene. This is used in may products such a catheters, fry pans, lubricants, etc. I'm not surprised it's found it's way into anodizing. My first use of this besides cookware was in the late 70s in Slick50 engine treatment. It cause my idle to go up 1200 rpm while poring it into the engine and my mpg went from 19.7 to 22.1.
 
Teflon is a brand name and is made from Polytetrafluoroethylene. This is used in may products such a catheters, fry pans, lubricants, etc. I'm not surprised it's found it's way into anodizing. My first use of this besides cookware was in the late 70s in Slick50 engine treatment. It cause my idle to go up 1200 rpm while poring it into the engine and my mpg went from 19.7 to 22.1.
I put it in an old Scirroco (don't remember the year) and it made the engine run very badly. Theory was that it eliminated some of the gunk that was acting as a seal.
 
Teflon has it uses. A slick disc is a wear plate that goes between the truck and trailer on a fifth wheel. It will last forever. But on a case?? I used to grease the liners but all it did was cook and make little bumps that became very hard to remove. I would be worried that it might cause the coating to fail. I am not a chemist, only a guy that fixes stuff.
 
The teflon referred to in hardcoat anodizing is not a coating. After anodizing the surface is porous. A sealing process finishes the job by sealing the pores. The most common sealant is nickel acetate. The teflon option is a sealant with some teflon molecules in it. The surface is still majority aluminum oxide in either case. Do not think coating in this application. Nickel acetate versus teflon sealant, you will most likely not notice any difference.

I am not a chemist either, but I have personally done aluminum anodization.
 
I put it in an old Scirroco (don't remember the year) and it made the engine run very badly. Theory was that it eliminated some of the gunk that was acting as a seal.
I never heard it eliminating gunk. It was supposed to impregnate Teflon into the pores of the bearing surfaces and reduce friction throughout the motor. This usually resulted in more HP, better mileage, and longer motor life. Of course most of the carb setting had to be adjusted. I found it also made the time to warm up the engine much longer since there was a lot less heat from friction. I had one car that was up to temp after the 1.5 mile drive to the interstate. After Slick50 I had to drive at least 3 miles up the interstate before it came up to temp.
 
I’ve used hardcoat anodizing with Teflon for mandrels. I don’t think there would be any difference if used for casings. Possibly some negative effects as others have mentioned.
 
I never heard it eliminating gunk. It was supposed to impregnate Teflon into the pores of the bearing surfaces and reduce friction throughout the motor. This usually resulted in more HP, better mileage, and longer motor life. Of course most of the carb setting had to be adjusted. I found it also made the time to warm up the engine much longer since there was a lot less heat from friction. I had one car that was up to temp after the 1.5 mile drive to the interstate. After Slick50 I had to drive at least 3 miles up the interstate before it came up to temp.
I don't know why it ran worse. I just know it smoked, sputtered and otherwise ran much worse after the Slick50.
 
I don't know why it ran worse. I just know it smoked, sputtered and otherwise ran much worse after the Slick50.
I put it in every car I owned and it never had those kinds of issues. The first time the instructions said change oil, add 3 qt., start motor, add Slick50, add last qt., and drive for 30 minutes. As I poured it in, the idle went from 900 rpm to 2200 rpm. I ended up taking the idle speed adjustment screw out and it was still idling at 1000 rpm with the carb completely closed. The issue was there was some wear on the primary throttle shaft and the butterflies didn't quite close completely.
 
Teflon has it uses. A slick disc is a wear plate that goes between the truck and trailer on a fifth wheel. It will last forever. But on a case?? I used to grease the liners but all it did was cook and make little bumps that became very hard to remove. I would be worried that it might cause the coating to fail. I am not a chemist, only a guy that fixes stuff.
A high temp anti-seize compound might be more appropriate than grease.
 
Hi Team. Great info Iam only having two cases done in reg and two in hard coat and two in Hardcoat with Teflon. Ill give them all a try and report back. I've been using reg Loki and AMW hard coat cases for years so the real only nuance is the one with Teflon. Ill report back on pricing as well.
 
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