Mega Baron from Arkansas [Squirrel Works]

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Note that the Mega Rebel is designed for the motor to be ejected. So, you can use a motor with an ejection charge. Or not.

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You get a wrap to mark the tube.

Attached a larger launch lug. The kit comes with a 1/4" lug. I am adding a 3/8" lug, because I launch my rocket gliders with a 1/4" launch rod.

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The laser work on the balsa is excellent. Working on the Struts.

The instructions list these as the "rudders". They go between the wings.

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Sorting out the Ailerons.

The wings are modelled after the Fokker Dr.1 or Fokker D.VII. Consequently, there are Ailerons 'sticking out', just like the real plane.

So, I am turning these into functional ailerons.

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I had to check 3 or 4 times to be sure I got the top and bottom wing, and the rudders, right side up. the wings are slightly staggered, but which way? I think I got it, it flies great!
 
Here is a look at the wings. In the pic, the Top Wing (with Ailerons) is at the top of the pic.

TOP WING:
  • Slightly longer.
  • Has aileron 'ears' sticking out (mimicking Fokker fighters).
  • Has 5 slots at each end.
BOTTOM WING:
  • Slightly shorter.
  • No aileron 'ears'.
  • Has 4 slots at each end.
  • Has 2 slots at center for support strut.
To make things more confusing, the model pic, on the package, is at an angle such that the Top Wing appears to be slightly in front of the Bottom Wing. However, this is not the case. The Top Wing is actually slightly BEHIND the Bottom Wing. This will become more evident as the build proceeds.

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Yes, I think you got it. That one drawing is misleading.
 
Subscribed! :popcorn:
I have a Squirrel Works Mega Baron in my build pile so this should really help guide me and avoid any potential gotchas.
 
Thanks for looking in, gents. Up next is attaching the 'Center Wings' to the fuselage/tube.

I was very concerned about getting the center wings aligned, so I grabbed some objects to prop up the wing halves, and hold it against the tube marks. I used CA to glue the Wings on, but I will add epoxy later.

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The quality of the balsa wood is excellent. :awesome: But the laser cutting leaves a burn residue. This needs to be removed for a better bond.

I used sandpaper and files (to get in between the slots).

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The Rudder/Struts interlock with the main wings. So, I decided to assemble the rudder/struts, Lower Wing, and rocket pod assembly all at once.

After checking alignment (using a drawing triangle), I attached everything with CA. Again, will add epoxy fillets later.

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Looks like a nice kit, and I like the added strength of the interlocking pieces. You have plans to paint it?

I recently built the original Estes Flying Jenny, still doing some glide trimming on it.

Good work!
 
Looks like a nice kit, and I like the added strength of the interlocking pieces. You have plans to paint it?

I recently built the original Estes Flying Jenny, still doing some glide trimming on it.

Good work!
Yes, I intend to paint the model. The scheme will loosely be based on Lothar von Richthofen's Fokker Dr.1 Triplane.

Been adding fillets, using 12 minute epoxy [BalsaUSA].

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Why epoxy fillets on a wood-and-paper model? Doesn't that add extra weight to a glider that wants to be as light as possible?
I use CA to hold components in place, like when I put a triangle next to two parts, making sure they are at 90 degrees. While the CA adheres quickly, it sometimes does not travel far enough into the wood. The epoxy is for added strength.

Yes, the epoxy adds weight. And the interlocking nature of the biplane wings probably did not require the additional epoxy. But I think additional fillets are needed at the motor tube.
 
I am going with a paint scheme inspired by Lothar von Richthofen's Fokker Dr.1 triplane. The nose, wing struts, and wheel covers were red, which is a squadron marking for Jasta 11. Lothar had a yellow top wing and tail on his Dr.1.

The lower pic shows the Red Baron's Dr.1 (Manfred von Richthofen); but Lothar's triplane had the same light blue underside.

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