Launch Control Extension Cords

[PeterEkstrom]

I need to upgrade the cables for my launch system. Got a 1,000 ft spool of beefy 4-conductor security wire and I'm planning on cutting it into a few sections so I can piece together what I need at any given launch, based on the size of the rocket.

I want to use nice, beefy, 'Playa-Proof' plugs to connect it all together. Any recommendations?

 

[Pyropetepete]

4 points I presume.

RCA
Banana plugs
XLR
1/4" mono jacks


Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum

 

[falingtrea]

I would not recommend any long lengths unless you are driving a relay. What gauge is the security wire? Just about every controller I have seen uses at least 18 ga wire for a non relay system. If the wire you have is what I think it is it is probably 20-24 ga. Too high a resistance for a direct connect launch system but fine for a relay controlled launch system. I use phone line for my relay launch system and it work very nicely.

 

[luke strawwalker]

I need to upgrade the cables for my launch system. Got a 1,000 ft spool of beefy 4-conductor security wire and I'm planning on cutting it into a few sections so I can piece together what I need at any given launch, based on the size of the rocket.

I want to use nice, beefy, 'Playa-Proof' plugs to connect it all together. Any recommendations?

I wire my controllers with regular 110V house outlet repair plugs, using lamp cord for the external battery connections (car jumper pack) and launch lead pigtail coming out of the controller, and then use regular 110 volt extension cords to reach from the launch controller out to the pad, with a short length of regular lamp cord (with a male plug on the end to plug into the extension cord) with a couple of copper micro-clips soldered to the ends of the wires to connect to the ignitor...

Works great, and the extension cord can be used for other stuff if needed... easy enough to get a 25 foot and 50 foot extension cords...

I wouldn't recommend using lighter gauge wire, expecially in long lengths... the voltage drop is excessive, especially if you're having to pull considerable amperage for ignitor(s) (especially clusters). If you want to use this sort of wire, I'd use it to activate a relay controller at the pad with the battery located at the pad, using the controller to energize a relay to actually fire the ignitor via a short length of lamp-style heavier guage wiring/cord...

Later and good luck! OL JR

 

[PeterEkstrom]

This is a relay driven system. Batteries, relays and everything else is out at the pad. This is 18g cable and is just to trigger the relays.

 

[shreadvector]

Normal household plugs and receptacles are OK, but you must be EXTREMELY careful that you never store them where children (or stupid adults) can get to them and plug them into a receptacle in the house or garage. The risk of electrocution in such an accident is high (although modern outside receptacle circuits would have a ground fault interrupter....).

Our mid power club pads have regular extension cords but we use the receptacle end on the end of the leads that connect to the panel and the panel has recessed 'plug' connectors. That way nobody can ever connect the launch leads to a normal household receptacle. Of course, we just have one length of cable and do not have mutiple segments connected to make them very long.

 

[luke strawwalker]

Normal household plugs and receptacles are OK, but you must be EXTREMELY careful that you never store them where children (or stupid adults) can get to them and plug them into a receptacle in the house or garage. The risk of electrocution in such an accident is high (although modern outside receptacle circuits would have a ground fault interrupter....).

Our mid power club pads have regular extension cords but we use the receptacle end on the end of the leads that connect to the panel and the panel has recessed 'plug' connectors. That way nobody can ever connect the launch leads to a normal household receptacle. Of course, we just have one length of cable and do not have mutiple segments connected to make them very long.

Something to keep in mind, but then again, if someone's really THAT stupid, do we need them peeing in the gene pool?? Personally I think not...

This is my own equipment, not club equipment...

If one is truly concerned that it's an issue, they could always "wire it backwards" (use female plugs on the controller, and male plugs on the battery extension and ignitor "whip" end leads... that way the controller CANNOT be plugged into the wall (and if someone is stupid enough to plug a length of lamp cord with microclips into the wall, well, you can't fix *THAT* stupid...)

Later! OL JR

 

[Fdog]

If you want beefy and waterproof, just type "Waterproof connector 4 pin" into Amazon and there will be too many to choose from.

OTOH, I fly exclusively from the playa, and have had great luck with RJ-45 connectors. Our system has never failed after 3 years of use even with 1000' distances.


All the best, James

 

[billspad]

Something to keep in mind, but then again, if someone's really THAT stupid, do we need them peeing in the gene pool?? Personally I think not...

This is my own equipment, not club equipment...

If one is truly concerned that it's an issue, they could always "wire it backwards" (use female plugs on the controller, and male plugs on the battery extension and ignitor "whip" end leads... that way the controller CANNOT be plugged into the wall (and if someone is stupid enough to plug a length of lamp cord with microclips into the wall, well, you can't fix *THAT* stupid...)

Later! OL JR

To make it even more foolproof just use the green (ground) and white (neutral) wires in the extension cord.