Lakeroadsters SPAD XIII Ace

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lakeroadster

When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
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Here's a scratch build rocket based on an Estes Der Red Max, but painted as a throwback to Eddied Rickenbacker's SPAD XIII
Features through wall basswood fins, a custom turned pine nose cone and 29MM motor.​

Ace of Aces: Eddie Rickenbacker
In under a year, Eddie had scored 26 confirmed enemy kills. From April 1918 to the signing of the Armistice, Eddie downed some of Germany’s most advanced warplanes. Along the way, he earned eight Distinguished Flying Crosses and was awarded the Medal of Honor for his actions as well.
Eddie.png


2022-02-23 SPAD XIII Ace Open Rocket Simulation.jpg Spad XIII Rickenbacker.jpg

2022-02-23 SPAD XIII Ace Open Rocket Photo Studio.jpg
 
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I think I'm going to move this one up to the Build Table.

If I see one more DRM... I think I'm going to hurl. And once Eddie throws his hat in the ring with his Spad XIII Ace, he'll have no problem whatsoever crossing into enemy lines and sending those Pure Yellowness DRM pilots back to the carny tent where they belong.

I modified the design slightly to accommodate a G-80, and made it a rear eject spool. Should be a fun build.

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SpadXIII Motor Spool Cartridge.jpg
 
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Gonna paint it or get a wrap?

either way, it’s a great color scheme, haven’t seen many do better than the originals Red Max (although the blue and green ones were clever.) This one is just deep, it really grabs the spirit of WWI. Brings back memories of my 7th grade book report!
 
Gonna paint it or get a wrap?

either way, it’s a great color scheme, haven’t seen many do better than the originals Red Max (although the blue and green ones were clever.) This one is just deep, it really grabs the spirit of WWI. Brings back memories of my 7th grade book report!
Probably make my own wrap...
 
I revised the design to use the same motor spool as my Razorback. The rocket is still a one off scratch build, not a kit, and has a big ole Redwood nose cone made out of a recycled 4x4.

The fins are no longer TTW, but they will have 1/4" thick plywood fillets on both sides of the 1/4" thick fins, so that is a 3/4" wide x 5-1/2" long fin root glued to the C-300 for each fin. Once I get this glued up I'll see how rigid it is. If there is too much flexing I'll add some poplar dowels that run from fin to fin... and paint them to look like strut wires on a Spad XIII.

Also updated the fins with different graphics to simulate a vertical stabilizer and two wings.

Hope to start on this within the next couple days.

2023-06-15 Spad XIII 3 Inch Rear Eject - Photo Studio.jpg2023-06-15 Spad XIII 3 Inch Rear Eject - Finished View.jpg2023-06-15 Spad XIII 3 Inch Rear Eject - Side View.jpg
 
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.Also updated the fins with different graphics to simulate a vertical stabilizer and two wings.


certainly a nice design as is.

couple options.

run your motor mount dimension tube all the way as far as you can into the nose cone. You can even add a BT-5 at the front to get further into the cone. If you need nose weight, put it on the POD as far forward into the cone as you can (I am assuming as pictured you are cutting the bulkhead base of the cone.)

you only need two centering rings, one at the back, and the second at the forward End of the motor mount just BEHIND the shoulder of the cone. Both of these are sliding rings, fixed only to the mount. The forward ring butts against the cone shoulder, this effectively is your “pod block.”

why?

1. doing this let’s you put any nose weight on the pod, which gets ejected and, if you rig the shock cord right, will land BEFORE the rocket body. Doing this, the rocket body when it comes down will definitely have less inertia/kinetic energy, and maybe if you rig it right will slow down a bit more than the motor mount. Again the rigging may be tricky.

2. Should give you plenty of space for your recovery gear. You already have plenty of experiencing “spooling” these, so you will be fine, but Always nice to have more space.

second item. This is basically a simple 3FNC with rear eject and an awesome paint scheme. Take a walk on the wild side. Keep the dorsal rudder, make the two other fins a bit longer, place them flat on the work table and glue them together flat, and glue this as a planar “wing-fin” on the ventral side opposite the rudder.

will get you more of a “wing effect.” May corkscrew in flight, but net trajectory will be straight, altitude will be lower, and flight and smoke trail a bit more, what’s it that @kuririn says, “avant-garde”? Flight will look more like a dogfight than a cargo run (although you may need more than 12 parsecs to do the Kessel run……oooops, I am mixing metaphors.)
 
certainly a nice design as is.

couple options.

run your motor mount dimension tube all the way as far as you can into the nose cone. You can even add a BT-5 at the front to get further into the cone. If you need nose weight, put it on the POD as far forward into the cone as you can (I am assuming as pictured you are cutting the bulkhead base of the cone.)

you only need two centering rings, one at the back, and the second at the forward End of the motor mount just BEHIND the shoulder of the cone. Both of these are sliding rings, fixed only to the mount. The forward ring butts against the cone shoulder, this effectively is your “pod block.”

why?

1. doing this let’s you put any nose weight on the pod, which gets ejected and, if you rig the shock cord right, will land BEFORE the rocket body. Doing this, the rocket body when it comes down will definitely have less inertia/kinetic energy, and maybe if you rig it right will slow down a bit more than the motor mount. Again the rigging may be tricky.

2. Should give you plenty of space for your recovery gear. You already have plenty of experiencing “spooling” these, so you will be fine, but Always nice to have more space.

second item. This is basically a simple 3FNC with rear eject and an awesome paint scheme. Take a walk on the wild side. Keep the dorsal rudder, make the two other fins a bit longer, place them flat on the work table and glue them together flat, and glue this as a planar “wing-fin” on the ventral side opposite the rudder.

will get you more of a “wing effect.” May corkscrew in flight, but net trajectory will be straight, altitude will be lower, and flight and smoke trail a bit more, what’s it that @kuririn says, “avant-garde”? Flight will look more like a dogfight than a cargo run (although you may need more than 12 parsecs to do the Kessel run……oooops, I am mixing metaphors.)

@BABAR check out post #5....

For this latest variant of the SPAD XIII Ace, the nose cone is attached with (3) wood screws. This allows it to be removed to:
  • install the altimeter... that's the thing that looks like a mass object.
  • to access the payload bay (where Eddie keeps the ammo for his Vickers 7.7 machine guns and his barrel of hooch)
  • add nose weight if necessary to compensate for payload.
Eddie says he likes this design. Having the motor behind him keeps all the motor emissions and noise out of his face, and the payload bay allows lots of room for ammo. You can never have "too much ammunition".


Spad XIII Airframe Layout.jpg
Eddie2-360x262.gif
 
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:facepalm: What was I thinking? You are a craftsman. You aren’t the type to stoop to using a plastic nose cone.

Still, for us mortals, I stand by using hollowed out nose cones for rear eject models. It is ESPECIALLY nice for pop pod boost gliders, you can put a very heavy “nose weight” on the front of the pod INSIDE the nose cone shell for boost stability , and just as completely dump it at apogee for an extremely light glider.
 
:facepalm: What was I thinking? You are a craftsman. You aren’t the type to stoop to using a plastic nose cone.
Eddie said no plastic.. Respect the legends.. ;)

Nose Cone Fabrication

Finished Weight: 278 Grams (9.81 Ounces)

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Fin Prep and Alignment Fixture

I used a 1/8" rounding bit in my router to radius the edges of the fins, then a palm sander to smooth them down.

The fixture is made from 3/16" cardboard (poster board).

A yogurt cup (FAGE or Chobani) fits perfectly into the C-300 at the base. Since the cup is tapered, it's self centering. This keeps the tube round while the glue is drying.


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Gluing Pine Fillets

Trying something new... for me anyways...

I glued the fillets in the horizontal... then once they had dried for 10 minutes put the rocket back in the alignment fixture.

The fillets are over 1/2" wide on the face and really help stiffen the fins. I'm still planning to use some 3/16" poplar struts from each fin down to the root of the adjacent fin. That will help minimize fin movement, and visually look "right" for a rocket mimicking a WWI biplane.

000.JPG001.JPG002.JPG003.JPG004.JPG005.JPG006.JPG007.JPGSPAD XIII Ace Strut Rods.jpg
 
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Bulkhead & Rear Stiffener Ring

I rough cut a bulkhead out of 1/4" plywood on my scroll saw and then faceplate sanded the o.d. on the wood lathe. Basically just using the tailstock to push the wood against the chuck.

In order to add some stiffness to the open end of the C-300, I cut (4) 5/16" long pieces of C-300. These were cut and then wood glued to the o.d. of the coupler. I'm amazed at how much 3 of these stiffened up the open tube.

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Slotting the BT-300

Pretty simple and straightforward. Probably be a couple days before I get around to gluing it in place.

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Altimeter Bay and Fuselage Vents

The altimeter bay will glue into the counter bore of the nose cone. Fuselage vents were made by punching holes through the BT-300, the altimeter bay retaining rings and then a 3/8" Forstener bit was used to bore holes through the nose cone shoulder.

The fuselage will be screwed to the nose cone with (3) wood screws.

Also filling voids around the BT-300 / fin junction / rear stiffener with wood glue.

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