High Flying Cards SCUD-C Build

[jjnodice]

The motor tube is built in the same way as the body tubes. One nice feature of the motor tubes is that they come "prelabelled". You can't miss where you are supposed to put a centering ring because it is clearly marked on the tube. Two sections of tube are joined to form the motor tube. I used spent 18mm motors to form the mandrel.

 

[jjnodice]

Ooops. Just realized this thread is in the Vendors section. Maybe I shouldn't have posted these build pics here...Oh well. Sorry.

Here's a rough stacking of the tubes (still on the mandrel). This rocket is going to be taller than I thought...

 

[jjnodice]

Here's where I left off. The fins. I built three of the four required. I messed up on the fourth, but the nice thing about these kits is that I can just print out more sheets if I mess up!

That's all for now. Hopefully I can get going on this project again. I need to build a fourth fin, attach the fins, build the nose cone, and work on the recovery system. At that point, it could fly. There is a decorative base plate that is really detailed but is not used during flight.

So far it has been a fun build. More pics soon, hopefully...

 

[Eric/VAl]

WOW! Talk about a blast from the past!

These are great models, if I do say so myself, and I have yet to build anything as complicated as this series! There are 3 and it took me about 6 months to finish desigining, testing, and getting them ready. For the folks who donated the $5.00 for the kits, I can't thank you enough, and I'm sure the Red Cross, and International Red-Cross put all our money to good use, (I bought a few of my own kits as well), especially in light of the hurricanes Katrina and Wilma! I always said, when it comes to the Red-Cross, you never know when a little invested, will be paid back later numerous fold! (unfortunately) I'm also sure the troops are enjoying what the USO is providing especially this time of year! Thank you all very much for your donations!
WHen I started these and other rockets at High FLying Cards I had 2 partners to help. They went by the wayside, and I was presented with a choice, of running a business, or making new models. I chose the later. I agreed to a deal later which they were put on a website that posted the models for free, due to mails coming in, hinting, and accusing the funds collected of being pocketed, as well as other various colorful opinions, that I didn't care for.
Well, that was all awhile back, and I havn't made a flying model in awhile now, choosing to concentrate on more elaborate static models instead, and allowing anyone who would like, to convert them for flying.
Thanks for the postings Jason, They're interesting to read, and also it often helps me learn how to improve things for builders. Anyone intrerested can find the SCUDS at www.dpileggispicks.com. MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!
Eric

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by jjnodice
I am going to post pics of what I have done in the hopes my friends here will haze me enough to get me remotivated.

Hey Jason,
You can harass me, and we can build them together.

I will start by putting new ink jet cartridges in my Canon 820 S Printer.

I have another card model to build as a Christmas present, too.

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by jjnodice
The main body of the model is built up from four different sections. You form them by applying white glue to the cardstock and allowing the glue to dry, wrapping the cardstock around the mandrel, and heating the cardstock with an iron to melt the glue that is sandwiched between the cardstock. The result is a double layer tube of cardstock that is plenty strong to handle flights.

Jason,
How do you like this ironing technique?

I read of this gluing method in Eric’s General Instructions for building card models. I have never seen any one else use this technique, while it looks good and very creative.

It looks like an interesting way to prevent the inevitable wrinkling from wet PVA adhesive.

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Mike_BAR
Jason,
How do you like this ironing technique?

I read of this gluing method in Eric’s General Instructions for building card models. I have never seen any one else use this technique, while it looks good and very creative.

It looks like an interesting way to prevent the inevitable wrinkling from wet PVA adhesive.

Hey Mike,

This is the third rocket I've built using this technique. I like it! It results in a good strong tube with out the wrinkling you mentioned.

One thing I found tricky were the seams. Mine have a tendency to not stay glued well. What I found is that if I put a little extra glue in the seam area (compared to the rest of the sheet) that it helps adhere better when I use the iron. Also, applying a little white glue into the areas that rise up helps to tack them down.

Hope that made sense.

Maybe Eric can chime in with some advice about the seams.

Jason

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by jjnodice
This is the third rocket I've built using this technique. I like it! It results in a good strong tube with out the wrinkling you mentioned.

Jason,
Great advice. I will try this method on the next card model.

I have worked with glue sticks and paper cement for double glue joints of paper tubes and laminations. I like to use Best-Test Paper Cement .

I did see a one-gallon jug of Elmers Glue-All at Michael's Arts and Crafts Store. I will get out my 40-percent off coupon!

 

[Eric/VAl]

oh yeah...seams...tricky things OI!

I have the same problems as well lol I have 2 solutions that work rather well, and to be honest, Jason named em!
1: Splock on a little extra glue at the ends where the seams are inside and outside, and then iron.
2: On the outside seam- and this is trouble for almost all card models static or not- DO NOT place glue at the edge of the seam for ironing. AFTER IRONING- take a piece of cardstock, cut a thin strip, and just take your time working glue under the seam, a little at a time, and press/hold all th way down/up the tube.
I've found the 2nd method to be a more permanent cure, and going carefully and gently, none will get on the outside. Let it set up several seconds before pressing. NOTE!!! One thing about card models and white glue- KEEP YOUR HANDS CLEAN! I wash mine an average of 4-5 times on even simple models. Sometimes, using a bit wax paper to smooth the seam down will help keep the glue from smearing and getting that nasty color it gets from dirty fingers- lol
If glue gets on the ouside, and is noticeable- NO PROBLEM MATE! Just shoot the model with a coat of matte, gloss, or in the case of the SCUD-C/SCUD-B, semi-gloss! It helps alot, as do crayons, markers, and colored pencils for the white seam lines
OH YEAH! EILEENS TACKY GLUE! Excellent stuff for small parts, that don't need alot of strength! Highly recccomm- reccomen-recomm- I LIKE IT ALOT! lol
Eric www.geocities.com/coldwarriorcards

 

[te_groen31]

(emptied by me )

Erik.

 

[jjnodice]

This was the original post for this thread. Just adding here for completeness.

Here's a picture of the mandrel and one of the body tube sections. The mandrel was formed from a piece of spare tubing I had around. The mandrel was built up to the correct diameter using a combo of cardstock and masking tape.

It's important to get the mandrel the right diameter and consistent in diameter from one end to the other. Otherwise your SCUD will be a dud...Hah! Had to say it...

The main body of the model is built up from four different sections. You form them by applying white glue to the cardstock and allowing the glue to dry, wrapping the cardstock around the mandrel, and heating the cardstock with an iron to melt the glue that is sandwiched between the cardstock. The result is a double layer tube of cardstock that is plenty strong to handle flights.

 

[jjnodice]

In case anyone was wondering, I requested the build thread get moved to the Scratch Built section where it might some more traffic. Sorry for the inconvenience/confusion the move may have caused anyone.

Eric/Val, where do you buy your Eileens Tacky Glue? I am not familiar with it.

I'd have to say that the worst work I do on card models is the seams. I slop glue on the good parts, resulting in that funky discoloration...Ughghg...I am also obsessive compulsive about the hand washing, and I still slop glue...Oh well.

That's why I like white models. The white glue blends in easier... The mistakes are more obvious on green ones like the SCUD-C and N-1.

One thing I did on my N-1 build that I should do from now on, is that I spray the sheets with clear coat BEFORE I do anything. That way they already have some protection on them.

Jason

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Mike_BAR
Hey Jason,
You can harass me, and we can build them together.

I will start by putting new ink jet cartridges in my Canon 820 S Printer.

I have another card model to build as a Christmas present, too.

Don't make me come over there and force feed you some new cartridges!!!

There...was that harassing enough???

What card model are you getting for Christmas. I've only worked with the free downloads...

Jason

 

[Eric/VAl]

Tacky Glue? Michaels, Wal-Mart, just about any craft store, or the craft section of most discount stores.
Eric

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Eric/VAl
Tacky Glue? Michaels, Wal-Mart, just about any craft store, or the craft section of most discount stores.
Eric

Thanks. I'm used to Yellow and White...Now I can add Tacky glue to the mix. Next time I'm out I'll look for it.

You say it's only good for pieces that don't need lots of strength. So, you would use it on the base plate doo-dads? Should I try it for the conduits or the nose cone? Obviously the fins would need strength so I assume not for that.

Thanks for the help.

Jason

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by Eric/VAl
Tacky Glue? Michaels, Wal-Mart, just about any craft store, or the craft section of most discount stores.

Correct.

Aleene's® Original Tacky Glue®


Seven different Aleen's Glues

 

[Eric/VAl]

It's in a gold colored round bottle, (the original stuff) It's works on the conduits, as there is not much pressure there, and it helps tack them together quicker. Fins? NO-GO! You need to smear a layer of glue onto the overlays, and tacky glue doesn't spread! you can use it to also assemble the individual nose cone inner pieces, but then use WHITE GLUE to assemble the pieces together, and WHITE GLUE on the outer layers, because of the need to smear it on. (lil things I've found from these toys) In short, where you need alot of glue that smears on- White glue! Where a little dab'll do-ya: Tacky Glue.
2 more cents..
Me again

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by jjnodice
What card model are you getting for Christmas. I've only worked with the free downloads...

Jason,
Nope, I'm not buying a card model; I am building a static card model and giving it to a friend as a Christmas gift. I found a fun little (free) rocket made by Jonathan Leslie, Lower Hudson Valley Challenger Center. The model is simple, fun and can be personalized. See the image from J. Leslie below.

The card model is of a nuclear missile from the movie, Dr. Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb (1964). The movie is a hoot! If you saw it, then you know why Slim Pickens is riding the missile to the ground.

Memorable Quote by Major T. J. "King" Kong:
Stay on the bomb run, boys! I'm gonna get them doors open if it harelips ever'body on Bear Creek!

The model can be personalized by going to Google Maps to download a satellite image as the missile target (on the rocket stand). I am printing a Google Map of my brother-in-law’s neighborhood. I hope he likes it!

You can find this card model and many more at The Lower Hudson Valley Paper Model Giftshop.

Edit: attached image is from J. Leslie, not my model. I will start a build thread soon.

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Mike_BAR
Jason,
...snip...
The card model is of a nuclear missile from the movie, Dr. Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb (1964). The movie is a hoot! If you saw it, then you know why Slim Pickens is riding the missile to the ground.


You can find this card model and many more at The Lower Hudson Valley Paper Model Giftshop.

Now that is TOO COOL!!!

I love it. Do you know what a stud you'd be on this forum if you built your own flying Major Kong's wild ride???? You might have to violate a few NAR rules for it to totally accurate, but man, that is begging to flight converted.

Your bro-in-law is getting quite a present. Nice job!

Jason

 

[mike_bar]

Originally posted by jjnodice
[Snip] Do you know what a stud you'd be on this forum if you built your own flying Major Kong's wild ride???? You might have to violate a few NAR rules for it to totally accurate, but man, that is begging to flight converted.

Sorry to highjack your thread Jason.

Hmmm, a flying model with realistic flight profile? This model would be a light-weight paper rocket so a "featherweight" recovery should be legit for NAR events.

And I know how my featherweight models look on re-entry...

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Mike_BAR
Sorry to highjack your thread Jason.

Hey Mike -- it's not a highjack when I ask you what you were doing! Keep us posted on this one!

After building Eric's Christmas Bobble Tree, I got back to work on the SCUD and noticed three mistakes. All my own fault.

1) When I glued the body tubes together, there was something wrong with the alignment of the bottom tube and the one adjacent to it. I think I hozed a centering ring's alignment because the tubes lined up nicely on the mandrel!

2) I left off one of the tube coupleres. Remember me saying how clearly marked that Eric's motor tubes are? They are CLEARLY marked, but clearly, I don't always read.

3) I hozed the fins. The inner forms were not done correctly. When I did the first three back in September I didn't think I was doing them right. I did the fourth one yesterday and it still didn't seem right. After reviewing the base plate instructions my mistake hit me. It won't take long to redo them!

So...I am going to have to take a step back to take some steps forward. I took an X-acto and surgically removed the lower 2 body tubes. I am going to reform them and hopefully reapply them to the existing centering rings. At this point, I have left the centering rings on and cleaned off residual glue. I may need to remove the rings at some point and remake those, but we'll see.

These are not issues with Eric's plans -- they are Jason isn't following directions problems. :kill: I just haven't had my A-Game lately. Eric's kits deserve an A-Game build, so that's why I am going to do some rework...

Jason

 

[jjnodice]

I think I may be over whatever "directionitis" I was afflicted with. Tonight I made four new fins. They look much better than the first set. My problem with the first set is that I had the lower-inner form backwards. Doh! What a mistake! Eric/Val is probably cringing at that one...sorry boss...

Anyway, with that, here's a pic for the interested. The top one is of the two inner forms prior to gluing. The middle are the two joined inner forms. The bottom has the outer skin attached.

 

[Eric/VAl]

cringing?
Actually, I'm kinda curious as to how you got it backward. Got any pics you could send me of that? Maybe something in the instructions needs to be updated? I'm backed up with a few new designs at the moment, but I guess I can check the instructs I wrote just in case. Here's a Funny case in point though! the number of models shown downloaded, outnumbers almost every set of mating instructions by 2 to 1 or even greater in some cases. IE- Almost 200-300 scuds of each type have been downloaded since September, but only 99s ets of instructions are shown having bee taken. What's up with that......? NOTE- The model scuds in this thread are only availble through www.dpileggispicks.com as from Jan-1st 2006
Eric

 

[jjnodice]

Originally posted by Eric/VAl
cringing?
Actually, I'm kinda curious as to how you got it backward. Got any pics you could send me of that?

Sure...Take a look at the pic at the end of the post, the good one is on the left. Bad one on the right. The problem I had is I didn't see how the two inner pieces went together. I assumed at first "pointy end forward" not realizing that was a glue tab. The green section should of told me -- screamed to me -- "I overhang past the body tube -- I'm visible" but it didn't hit me until I started to put the fins on. Then I knew I hozed it up!

When I looked at the base plate instructions, I saw the back of the fins and saw how they were squared off at the back edge. Mine were tapered. Then it hit me what happened!

Almost 200-300 scuds of each type have been downloaded since September, but only 99s ets of instructions are shown having bee taken. What's up with that......?
Eric

If you are reading this message and are one of the 100+ people without instructions...DOWNLOAD THEM. I can't see how you could piece this model together without them. You could probably piece together the flying part, but not the baseplate.

Eric, one thing you could do to force people to download both the instructions and the parts is to zip them together. That way they only download one file and get everything they need.

Here's the pic...

 

[Eric/VAl]

OOOOHHHHHHHHhhhhhh...... Now I see! Thanks for the pic! Good idea abut the model instruction thing-zip file thing! I think Imay just do that.
Eric

 

[jjnodice]

I rolled the new aft two sections of body tube tonight. After doing that I dremelled the centering aft centering rings to correct the alignment problem. I think one ring in particular was a little wider on one side than the other and skewed the alignment between the two tubes.

NOTE TO BUILDERS...CHECK ALL OF THEM ALL BEFORE GLUING...

The new tubes align MUCH better. It was painful to have to cut into the model, but it will look better.

Now...to my next thing. I printed the part sheets several months ago. When I compared the tubes I printed tonight with the tubes printed several months ago, they are NOT the same shade of green. The older ones are a darker green.

Either I printed them on a different printer, or different ink jet cartridges produced different color inks.

NOTE TO BUILDERS...DON'T PRINT STUFF MONTHS IN ADVANCE!

It won't be too noticeable I guess...Well...Less noticeable than the cock-eyed tube would have been...

You be the judge...The old tubes are on top, new on the bottom...

 

[jjnodice]

Eric, I have a question about step 6B Nose Cone Assembly. I am wondering how the outer strip of the nose cone shoulder should be oriented. Should the boxes be at the bottom, or at the top.

Pictures will help...Should it be this way? (Option A)

 

[jjnodice]

Or this way (Option B)???

 

[Eric/VAl]

OK- Let me address the printining problem first-

This has caused much uproar in the paper-modeling world. It's not your printer, it's most likely the PDF'S! I'm working on finding a fix, as I make lots of paper models myself.
Eric

12-31-05- OK I have a fix! I'll b making a seperate posting about it shortly.
...Scratch that-LOL

 

[Eric/VAl]

Panels (boxes) to the bottom! When the Russians designed the Scud-C- they threw in an extra avionics bay, to increase warhead/flight accuracy, at the top. Real easy- need more equipment? Slap on an extra half meter or so to the missile! Gotta love that sledge hammer technology!
Eric