Giant Leap Rocketrys new Mariah 38 kit review

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cmcain

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Two weeks ago I got a sneak peak of Giant Leap Rocketry’s new kit, the Mariah 38. Just like the front page of the instructions indicate, it is an extreme altitude kit. The first time Ed showed me pictures of this kit I knew I had to have one. The Mariah 38 is only 17oz and will take an Aerotech 38/1080 case or a CTI pro38 6gxl case. It is 44.75” long and a 38mm minimum diameter kit made with their magna-frame airframe. It also has a set of .062 fins that are very easy on the eyes. The leading edge is a long pair of sweeping arcs that, when combined with the 38mm pinnacle nosecone, looks like it’s screaming while sitting still. In fact, the first time I saw a picture my eyes were drawn to the blue and silver and I immediately thought of Larry Dixon Jr.’s Miller Light dragster.
Ed and Kent both kept telling me the Mariah is a straight forward kit - on the outside. My first look at the kit’s parts and 24-page instruction book left me extremely excited. Who says you have to deploy a main at Apogee with a minimum diameter rocket when you want to keep it short and only have one separation point in the airframe? The Mariah solves the problem of how to go drogue-less and then deploy a main at a typical dual deploy altitude: a breadbox avbay and shotgun tube! The giant leap shotgun deployment system is an innovative concept because everything stays attached from launch until landing. No more dual deployment from one end of an airframe, forcing you to chase two or more parts. Everything stays attached with Kevlar and at apogee deployment there is no way to accidentally deploy the main chute - except for operator error.
The breadbox avbay is a very simple way of installing an altimeter in a rocket. Wiring it is tool and hardware free. It has a cover that slides open and shut just like the old breadbox on Grandma’s kitchen counter. It is the fastest way to set up an avbay that I have seen so far; no sled, no all-thread or screws. Just wire your altimeter with a battery and e-matches and you’re ready to go. The only difficult part of the setup is deciding how to safe your altimeter.
A word of warning to the wise: READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST! You have to build this kit step-by-step and word-for-word. If you rush into the Mariah or skip around in your assembly there is a good chance you will wind up with a display model. There are parts on the breadbox avbay that must stay free of ca and epoxy. On the other end of the model is another cool addition called the supermount. It is the same general idea as the hardpoint shock cord mount, but it is lighter and takes up much less room in the airframe. A word of warning here, too: if you get epoxy dripping one way you won’t be able to fully install a long 38mm motor. Get epoxy dripping in the other direction and you won’t be able to get the shotgun deployment assembly installed for flight.
In the Mariah kit you have two choices: rail guides or tower. I built mine with the acme rail guides just for the ease of not having to drag around a tower for flight. After I installed my rail guides, I airfoiled the fins by hand on the leading and trailing edges. G10 is not fun to airfoil by hand but trust me, it is well worth the time. These fins are pretty!
After I finished that step, I scuffed up the magna-frame around the fin dados slots and cut out my fin guide. The instructions recommend using JB Weld to attach the fins and a drop of ca on each end of the fin root. This creates a very strong joint. As a matter of fact, the joint will be the last thing to fail when you use this attachment method. Regardless, reinforcing the fin joints with the included fiberglass cloth is still recommended. I prefer to tip-to-tip glass the fins on my rockets because it is easier to blend and finish, but this time I tried using strips from the airframe to the fin just to reduce weight. I don’t know if I would try it again because of the extra sanding that is required to finish them, but it was certainly worth a try.
Finishing is pretty straight forward. I have heard of all kinds of ways to fill spirals in airframes but my preferred method is Crawford’s vinyl spackling, which can be found at most home paint stores. It dries fast, is smooth and practically glides on when it is applied, and is a dream to sand. After I filled and smoothed the spirals, I primed my Mariah with Duplicolor grey high build automotive primer. After many hours of wet sanding I have no idea how I should paint it. Just like a hot rod, the curves make the Mariah 38 scream for pearls, candies, and metallic finishes.
Unfortunately, I have yet to find the opportunity to fly my Mariah, but it was a lot of fun to build. It made me remember there is always another way to do something, to improve and advance from what has already been proven. The shotgun deployment is definitely a unique setup where the hardest step in flight prep is trying to fold up the thin mill nylon parachute. It is by far the slickest nylon chute I have ever handled, but if packed correctly in the shotgun tube main deployment shouldn’t ever be an issue.
Overall, I would recommend this kit to any advanced flier who wants something different. If you have the speed and altitude sickness like I do, then this is the kit for you. I was lucky enough to see the prototype fly on an Aerotech J570w and it was awe inspiring. My two recommendations for flight would be to stand way back and most importantly, DON’T BLINK! You will see the motor light on the pad and then you will see burnout and the tracking smoke start a few thousand feet above your head. The Mariah 38 is perfect for low thrusting long burn motors and I plan to fly mine on an Aerotech I59wn. I just wish that we had more long burn motor choices in the 38mm range. As I said before, whether you’re addicted to speed or to altitude, the Mariah 38 is the kit for you. At the introductory price of $79.95 it’s a deal. Especially when you consider the amount of work that goes into making the parts for this kit. Your biggest decisions will be if you are going to use the provided acme rail guides or a tower, whether or not to add a slimline instead of friction fitting the motor, and finally…do you really wanna buy just one?
 
Ummm..... How about some pictures? Especially of the recovery system, I'm having a hard time visualizing it.

My grandma's breadbox was in a drawer. I don't think the rockets is. LOL

We are all interested in the internals and how they function.

How long is the Av-bay itself internally? Curious so I can figure out what I can get in it.
What's your setup?
What altimeter are you using?

Cut out the fin guide? I thought one comes with the kit. Do you have to make it?

If anyone else gets one, how about some pics of parts before you build.

I'm on the verge of getting one, but need to see how this works first. Thanks

What holds the main in the shotgun tube & is it shear pinned in?

Do you have a finished weight, ready to fly sans motor.
 
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hehe somehow it feels like a plug, first post, raving review, no breaks between paragraphs :p

though in the interest of helping with knowledge, this video made by GLR shows everything and is a pretty good explanation :)
 
Hi, I will try to answer your questions to the best of my ability. Answers through-out your quote.

Ummm..... How about some pictures? Especially of the recovery system, I'm having a hard time visualizing it.

Realizing this is a small-high altitude design with space a premium, at apogee is separates into an upper and lower section joined with 1/8" Kevlar. Again, because of the small size, there is no streamer or parachute deployed at apogee.

My grandma's breadbox was in a drawer. I don't think the rockets is. LOL

We are all interested in the internals and how they function.

How long is the Av-bay itself internally? Curious so I can figure out what I can get in it.

Again, because this is 38mm and space is at a premium, we recommend the smaller brands of altimeters such as Perfectflite, Raven, Altrus-Metrum. I was able to load my Adept ALTS2 inside, but even though it is my favorite, it would be nearly impossible to deal with because of the size and I wouldn't recommend it.

What's your setup?
What altimeter are you using?

Perfectflites and Ravens have been used.


Cut out the fin guide? I thought one comes with the kit. Do you have to make it?

Because of the wide range of kits we produce, I opted to have a heavy cardstock guide made that is generic to many sizes. Yes, you will need to cut out the appropriate diameter and fins. This helps keep costs down to you the consumer.

If anyone else gets one, how about some pics of parts before you build.

I'm on the verge of getting one, but need to see how this works first. Thanks

What holds the main in the shotgun tube & is it shear pinned in?

Simple, we use a 1.1 oz coated 24" single piece chute and even that small, it is a snug fit in the Shotgun Tube. It's not going to come out until the main deployment charge fires, even if the protective cap/plug comes off after apogee deployment. Even then, it is critical to utilize the recommendations of deployment charge, this is definitely not a rocket you over-do the charge

Do you have a finished weight, ready to fly sans motor.

Built, but without altimeter and motor we have been coming in at 17 oz. If you have any further questions, I will do my best to answer. Ed has come up with an innovative design and I've worked extremely hard in producing prototypes, parts, testing and now kits. Writing instructions though is the most difficult to get the point across in an understandable way. We are not trying to be coy with answers, but please realize being on forums are very "foreign" to us and I spend next to no time on them. If you have any other questions, I can be reached at the below number.

Best regards,

Kent/GLR, chief bottle washer
620-727-0045
 
The thing I'm curious about is how the altimeter mounts inside the electronics bay?

Is there a small sled you attach the electronics to, that fits inside nicely? Or is there some other method?

With the diversity in altimeter sizes, I'm wondering how they're held in place, so they don't rattle around.

Also, what's the largest (dimensions) altimeter it can house?

-Kevin
 
Dear Kevin and Bill,

Thank you for your questions and I will do my best to answer. First, remember this is a small diameter and short as possible kit to obtain maximum altitudes with the biggest motors. And the Mariah 38's potential has yet to be achieved. That said, compromises must be made to pack things in a little space (any small diameter, altitude oriented dual deployment rocket is this way).

To hold your altimeter inside the Breadbox Av-bay, we supply a square of very sticky, two sided foam tape to attach it to the inside of the Breadbox cover. In addition, I include R/C airplane latex foam rubber with each kit to pack your altimeter even more securely inside the Breadbox. Once everything is mounted and wired securely, you rotate closed the Breadbox cover which then allows the opening of the Breadbox cover to be exposed to the static port drilled through the airframe on the opposite side.

We have had no problems with rotation of the Breadbox cover when not desired. But, if you are nervous, use some tape to prevent rotation. Also, care must be exercised not to plug the static port with the latex foam. But, with care, that will not be a problem and hasn't be a problem in our tests using baro based altimeters. And as for altimeters, Perfectflite, Ravens, Altrus-Metrum work very well along with others of this general size. I was able to pack my favorite altimeter, an Adept ALTS2 inside the Breadbox, but it was difficult and I do not recommend the useage of something that size, and it was NOT used in flight testing.

Remember, we have stated time and again, this is not a beginners kit. We believe there are great flyers out there who appreciate challenges and this is who we designed this kit for. But you won't be figuring out things on your own. Ed and myself have spent a mind-numbing amount of time writing the instructions and taking the photographs. We want you to succeed, but the buyer must do their part. You cannot slap this kit together overnight, slap in a motor, electronics and pour ounces of black powder in for ejection and expect to succeed. GLR has supplied high quality parts, testing and instructions with this kit. But this or any other kit is only as good as the amount of effort put into the build and preparation.

For the record, we forgot to put Acme rail guides on the Mariah in the photograph. Needing to get the photo completed, I used the same double stick foam tape to stick it to the rail. Stuck, like a tick, too good in fact. Now we need to get the paint repaired where it pulled off during the tape removal. Oh well.

Thank you,

Kent/GLR
 
What is the maximum motor length?

I know a J1000 isn't going to fit.
 
at the moment the aerotech 38/1080 case and the cti pro38-6xl i need to get a j1000 or j650 load for my lok i38-1808 case because if i figured it up right it should still be stable with the case hanging out the back of the rocket but i need the assembled motor to be sure, mine came out at 15.5 ozs in primer but i dont have the added weight of the dynawind
 
What is the maximum motor length?

I know a J1000 isn't going to fit.


The 38mm CTI 6G XL case is the longest motor that will fit. I don't have the casing in front of me but I think the inserted portion of the case is what, about a 22" long (??). It's late and my other 2 locations are closed so I can't call and ask them to measure.
 
The 38mm CTI 6G XL case is the longest motor that will fit. I don't have the casing in front of me but I think the inserted portion of the case is what, about a 22" long (??). It's late and my other 2 locations are closed so I can't call and ask them to measure.

The Pro38 6XL is 19-3/4", the Loki 38-1200 is a tad over 24-1/2".
 
I take it that the AT 1320 casing doesn't fit either then?
 
I got one coming.

Will post all the needed info when I get it.

Talked to Kent, he was very informative & helpful.

Asked me to post some more info.

Av-bay is 29mm 4in. long. Altimeter is held in place by double sided tape & foam block [both supplied]
That and the chute cannon will take up 15inches . So with a 36in fincan, you will have 21inches left for motor and recovery + attachment point.

Fin can has dadoes for the fins.

There are 2 separate Kevlar shock cords for recovery, both attach to the same point in the front of chute cannon.

Apogee one goes through the cap on chute cannon to hard point.
The cap is there just to protect recovery from ejection gases.
Second [which is Kevlar ribbon] goes from hard point to main.

Thus the apogee event cannot pull out the main.

Hope this clears up some things.
 
What's with the name?

Mariah Carey?

Mariah or Burbot is a type of fresh water Cod ,very tasty ,we usually catch them icefishing.But sad to say, they are not very pretty looking fish.

The kit looks much better , but not as tasty ;)


Paul
 
Here's a nice comment on Rocketry Planet that was posted by a recent builder:

***********************

Chris & I built each of our Meriah's together.
The shotgun deployment tube is quite genius!
The assembly manual is very detailed in the construction of the Bread box/Shotgun tube.
I've had conversations with Kent Burnett about the tube.
Hopefully in simplifying construction & the manufacturing process.
I have herd from Kent that the idea was well perceived & possibly will be incorporated as an "update".
So, at this point I will not be able to share any pictures of the "device" & hope that no one else will until they have the permission from Kent or Ed to do so.
If you want detailed pictures & assembly instructions please buy the kit!

It's well worth $80.00

I have no affiliation with Giant Leap.

I consider myself a good friend & a fellow KLOUDBuster of Kent Burnett.

Chris & I both witnessed a flight on a J570! Mach 1.6+!!
An unfortunate Main chute malfunction, It Came in from about 12,000'+, Landed 3+ miles away with no damage what so ever!!! Dyna-wind airframe & No Fiberglass on the fins!!!!

I am very grateful to have been considered the ability to pre-order this kit 2 weeks in advance to its release.

Thank You,
Steve Shade TRA #3180
 
I take it that the AT 1320 casing doesn't fit either then?

At this time, No, the Loki 1320 is too long to fit all the way into the booster. I had a conversation with Kent about a simplified breadbox/avbay that would help to accommodate the longer motors.
The idea was well perceived by Kent & Ed, but it would make the rocket approximately 6" longer.
I had no intention of redesigning the kit, I only wanted to simplify the manufacturing of parts & the assembly.
This idea may be available as an "update".
As of now the CTI 6XL is the longest motor that will fit.

Thank You,
Steve Shade TRA #3180
 
Looks like an interesting design.
So you have been separating at apogee on motor ejection ?
No mention was made in that video on the location of the main ejection charge location ... Or apogee charge if any.



The normal configuration is for the electronics to fire the apogee charge kicking away the bottom section (then the main deploys later, ejecting the chute out of the back of the "shotgun" tube. The motor charge can be used as a back-up for apogee separation.

However, although the Mariah-38 is a dual-deploy rocket, it can also be flown in single-deploy, motor ejection-only configuration, where the main deploys at apogee. Good luck getting it back.
 
Looks like an interesting design.
So you have been separating at apogee on motor ejection ?
No mention was made in that video on the location of the main ejection charge location ... Or apogee charge if any.

No, there are alternative build methods in the manual for motor ejection.
Single seperation point, altimiter dual deployment is how this kit was designed. After all it'll fly to 12,000'+
Do you really want motor eject at that altitude?
I don't think there is a delay long enough to get the most altitude that this rocket is capable of.

Thanks,
Steve Shade TRA #3180
 
No I don't ... Want to use motor ejection.

Just my thought as well, No delays long enough.

Video is lacking in detail So thanks for replying here guys.
I may order one at the introductory price even though I haven't started my Black Hawk 38 yet.

What are you waiting for?
Order one or two
You won't be disappointed!
It is a very light weight kit, Unique design, Sleek & easy to build if you take your time & follow the manual to the letter.

Enjoy,
Steve Shade TRA #3180
 
There is nothing thay says one -has- to push the envelope and cram the largest motor in the Mariah. In fact there are dozens of 29 & 38mm loads that use motor ejection that would make for great flights.:)
 
There is nothing thay says one -has- to push the envelope and cram the largest motor in the Mariah. In fact there are dozens of 29 & 38mm loads that use motor ejection that would make for great flights.:)

You are absolutely right!
It' nice to have it available though. Just in case.
 
go ahead and order one my built mariah weighs less than my blackhawk 38 does, i finally have something that i can fly that G69n on ive had that motor for a year and it sims to over 4000'. honestly the biggest downfall with the mariah is the fact that our choice of long burn 38mm motors is so limited sure itll go fast on a j570 but rocksim says it hould still easily clear 10000' on an I59wn now imagine if we had a boost/sustain motor for the 38/1080 or even a 38/720 for that matter
 
i always forget about that motor, the cti imax line of motors is one that im really interested in flying, only problem is that i normally dont have the money to stock up on the ones i want when i can, infact i bought acouple j520 skidmarks at airfest and burned em both saturday at airfest, i tried stocking up on motors they just didnt make it home in my motor box. i wonder what it would do on a vmax motor or how it would look on a j595 blue streak
 
i always forget about that motor, the cti imax line of motors is one that im really interested in flying, only problem is that i normally dont have the money to stock up on the ones i want when i can, infact i bought acouple j520 skidmarks at airfest and burned em both saturday at airfest, i tried stocking up on motors they just didnt make it home in my motor box. i wonder what it would do on a vmax motor or how it would look on a j595 blue streak

I'm sure we'll find out!!!:wink:
 
Well I got 12,188 out of a 2.7lb empty BH 38 on the J-595 BS, if that's any indication. Should be a whole lot mo betta !

Anyone got a rocksim file on this they can post? So we can play.
 
How many times has this rocket actually been test flown?

How is the altimeter vented to the outside? Being soo close to the nose might pose a problem you for some reason want to use a baro. only based altimeter....


JD
 
i personally have seen two test flights in person i was worried about where the vent hole is but after the flights i saw im just gonna sim it to figure out how long i need to mach safe my altimeter for and go with it, i trust my perfectflite hialt45k now that i know the does and donts after an accidental deployment on the pad that was my fault on my 3rd dd flight ever. i believe it was flown with a perfectflite in it but i can remember for sure, i know that kent can answer that question. i wouldnt worry too much about it i watched the mariah break a few rules as far as glassing and altimeter placement that i was honestly scared to try, a rekitted model isnt fun but ive talked to ed and kent and hammered both of them with tons of questions and i trust their judgement 100%
 
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