Foamboard vs Cardboard for Fuselages

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lakeroadster

When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
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Looking for advice from folks that have used foamboard...

Foamboard

I've spent a considerable amount of time watching video's about making airframes and wings out of foamboard.​
In nearly every case folks are using shipping tape to cover the foam board on the outside surface of the foamboard. And I have yet to find the outside surface painted. It seems this is done because the paper backing isn't adhered very well to the foam core.​
I want to glue basswood to the foamboard... but if the paper that comes on the foamboard isn't adhered well to the foam core, that likely will not work well.​
Is there a glue that can be applied to the paper on the foamboard, that will soak through the paper and make the bond to the foam stronger?​

Cardboard

I've had good luck using good quality corrugated cardboard for centering rings. What I do is cut the rings, attach them to the body tube and then once that is dry I coat the cardboard with Gorilla Wood Glue. That stiffens the ring considerably.​
I'm wondering if cardboard would be a better choice, instead of foamboard, if structural attachments are going to be made?​

Razerback Assembly.JPGRazerback Presentation.JPGRazerback Body Presentation.JPGRazorback Drawing Sht 1 of 2 Rev 01.jpg
 
I have used thick cardbord (non corrugated) from the back of a 1970's art tablet. Attached with wood glue then soaked with thin CA to make Poor Boy Phenolic. Strong as iron. Handled all black powder motors in clusters.

Internals only, centering rings, reinforcement.
 
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I think you have the pros and cons of foam core board and cardboard.

There is a middle ground material, 120 pound Bristol Board. Long fibers, holds shapes nicely, takes glue and primer and paint well. Take a look at a Michael's or an art supplies store.
 
I've spent a considerable amount of time watching video's about making airframes and wings out of foamboard.In nearly every case folks are using shipping tape to cover the foam board on the outside surface of the foamboard. And I have yet to find the outside surface painted. It seems this is done because the paper backing isn't adhered very well to the foam core.
There are different kinds of foamboard. For airplanes, weight is important, so the Adam's Readi-board from Dollar Tree is favored. The paper easily peels off, which allows for bending the board into a curve. The side left papered needs to be water proofed (usually with packing tape) else it will de-laminate.

Other stores carry other brands of foamboard that has the paper more securely adhered. There is Elmer"s foamboard (I cannot remember what store chain I saw it in, and Walmart had two different brands of foamboard that were heavier and sturdier than Readi-board.

Adams also makes foamboard for Flight Test that is water proof and is designed to take paint. I don't know how well the paper adheres.

The stuff is cheap, so get some and experiment.
 
I just did a little digging. It seams that the Flite Test Maker Board is considered water resistant, not water proof. But if you paint it, that should seal it.

Thanks for the 411... this appears to be just what I'm looking for.

Review:​
Posted by sarah on 6th Dec 2022
For those that are used to working with the foam boards from the dollar tree, these boards have the same bendable characteristics. The covering are not paper, but a slick feeling cover that gives it the same strength, if not more than the Dollar store boards. Unlike dollar store boards, these do not have the covering falling off all the time as you work with it. The covering seems to only come off when you want it to. The ONLY downside to this foam board is that pencils don't mark on it at all, you have to use markers. I suggest using sharpy ultra fine tip markers. fast delivery and great customer service. I will be buying it again.
 
For something small I'd suggest card stock the foam board comes into its own when you're trying to do something really large and ultra lightweight I don't like the paper covered foam boards they lose strength if they get a crease I prefer depron but I've used that a lot. But the bear depron isn't very rash resistant so you might need to cover it with some self-adhesive vinyl or Monaco and you need to keep it away from heat.
 
For something small I'd suggest card stock the foam board comes into its own when you're trying to do something really large and ultra lightweight I don't like the paper covered foam boards they lose strength if they get a crease I prefer depron but I've used that a lot. But the bear depron isn't very rash resistant so you might need to cover it with some self-adhesive vinyl or Monaco and you need to keep it away from heat.

Thanks Frank. You build some pretty big stuff. Would you consider this small? Flies on G motors, so it'll see some decent forces / stress.

The Razorback

Razorback Dwg Sht 1 of 15 Rev 04.jpg
 
To me that's small, if you were going lightweight you shouldn't need g motors for that size I would think...
 
I want to glue basswood to the foamboard... but if the paper that comes on the foamboard isn't adhered well to the foam core, that likely will not work well.Is there a glue that can be applied to the paper on the foamboard, that will soak through the paper and make the bond to the foam stronger?
Peel the paper off where you want to glue something. Or, use Gorilla glue, which will soak through. My favorite is White Gorilla Glue since it has a shorter time to set. It will foam up, so be ready to wipe up the excess before it sets.
 
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Peel the paper off the inside of the curve and you won't get a crease.



This entire plane is foamboard.
Yes for built up structures, I was referring to single ply flat plate wings and tail surfaces, I've seen many cases where a tumble or cartwheel will crease a surface and it is pretty much done, of course you can tape or monokote over the foamboard like you do but that does add some weight and the foamboard with paper is heavier. I'm just saying the foam board foam has no real structural strength on its own, it is very soft and bendy without the paper, in the end it doesn't matter, everyone has their preferences and what they are happy working with. I like depron because I don't have to paint prep, cover it, tape it etc to get the strength and stiffness I need at the right weight and it looks good as is to me at least, I played with tapering edges and using an iron etc and it was possible but it just didn't look as good as I wanted compared to a sanded edge. And I like using the foam safe CA because it is very fast, I don't like the weight of hot glue either, you can use other glues on the foam board, but there are lots of planes flying using both methods, and many other materials.
 

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