• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of multi-channel sound.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive The Rocketry Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Estes Pro Series II Launch Controller - Disassembly and Modification

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ChadM

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2018
Messages
5
Reaction score
14
Location
Lakewood Village TX
I am new to the forum; apologies for taking so long to get here :)

I have been searching the forum for internal pictures and/or a schematic of the Estes Pro Series II Launch Controller with no success. I found threads asserting concerns about the use of 3S LiPo batteries attached to the JST connector Estes includes with this launcher (the potential absence of circuit protection leading to catastrophic LiPo failure was a theme). No schematics or internal pics were included in these threads, however.

I thought it might be useful to perform minor surgery on one. The results of said surgery follow.

First, to satisfy the tl;dr users (of which I am often one), the end results of the exploratory surgery, modification(s) and the schematic:


List of modifications:
  • Inline, waterproof fuse to ensure a degree of over-current protection exists
  • Externalized 3S balance charger cable to eliminate the need to remove the screws and back-panel to gain access to the LiPo battery
  • Battery charge monitor and alarm
  • Battery temperature monitor and alarm
  • System output voltage monitor and alarm
  • Waterproof quick disconnect cable (so the unit and the launch leads can be carried separately)
  • Corrected the "color coding/polarity" of the output wires (they were reversed at the factory)
List of materials used for the modifications:


In order to gain access to the innards, without butchering the screws, you need a tool to unscrew the 'triangle' security screws.


With access gained, you are treated to the creamy center within:


The first observation is the "color polarity" of the outputs is reversed. This is only cosmetic, but is easily fixed, so why not.

There appears to be zero over current protection, so I will add that.

The negative connection on the PCB has somewhat fractured (delaminated). As the return path is through the igniter, there is no compulsory reason to terminate this on the PCB, so I will move the battery return to an off-pcb junction.

In order to accommodate the LiPo and Battery Monitor, it's time to get cutting.

First, the C battery terminals and wiring are removed. C batteries won't fit in the battery compartment after the Battery Monitor is installed, so the motivation to keep the C battery support as a backup as not possible.


Next, the Battery Monitor needs to be inserted through the top panel and the battery compartment, a dremel tool is used.


The Battery Monitor wiring, 3S charging cable, rewired battery return junction and wiring exit are completed next.


Let all of the Permatex Ultrablack dry for 24h.

Finally, connect the Battery Monitor harness to the monitor, roll the temperature cable so it will be sandwiched under the LiPo, install the LiPo (connecting it to the JST and to the 3S charge cable) and re-assemble.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Editing failed as spam, so I will clarify some points:

  • The return junction was twisted, crimped (non-insulated, yank tested) and covered in heat shrink.
  • The fuse in the schematic did not exist in the original design from Estes, it was added.
  • The volt meter and temp sensor did not exist in the original design from Estes, it was added.
  • The fuse itself should be depicted right before the igniter in the schematic, as it exists after the fire switch as well as after the continuity LED and speaker.
  • The green painter's tape was used only to hold or label components during construction. It was not used as adhesive or insulation in the final work.

-Chad
 
Last edited:
Great work. I really like the idea of charging without removing the battery. I need to do that on my Eggfinder LCD too.
 
I appreciate the kind words.

My family and I built four small rockets last week - Nike Smoke, Super Big Bertha, Nike X and Baby Bertha (somewhat themey [sic]). We'll be using a range of C6-5s to G80-7Ts at the end of this month.


Wow! Not your first rodeo with the ohmmeter and soldering iron I take it ? Welcome to the forum. What are you going to launch with that thing ?
 
I couldn’t get a lipo to work in my psll controller either. The controller kept ruining the batteries.
 
When you're ready to try a club launch I can recommend these folks:
www.dars.org

DARS is a great bunch of folks.

If your are reasonably new to Texas rocketry, you might consider Tripoli North Texas - Home of the 2022 Texas Shootout over memorial day weekend. We will be flying to our new 30,000+ foot waiver, there will be a host of big rockets including at least one M (me), and I hear a full scale ISQY Tomahawk on an O motor.
 
I am new to the forum; apologies for taking so long to get here :)

I have been searching the forum for internal pictures and/or a schematic of the Estes Pro Series II Launch Controller with no success. I found threads asserting concerns about the use of 3S LiPo batteries attached to the JST connector Estes includes with this launcher (the potential absence of circuit protection leading to catastrophic LiPo failure was a theme). No schematics or internal pics were included in these threads, however.

I thought it might be useful to perform minor surgery on one. The results of said surgery follow.

First, to satisfy the tl;dr users (of which I am often one), the end results of the exploratory surgery, modification(s) and the schematic:


List of modifications:
  • Inline, waterproof fuse to ensure a degree of over-current protection exists
  • Externalized 3S balance charger cable to eliminate the need to remove the screws and back-panel to gain access to the LiPo battery
  • Battery charge monitor and alarm
  • Battery temperature monitor and alarm
  • System output voltage monitor and alarm
  • Waterproof quick disconnect cable (so the unit and the launch leads can be carried separately)
  • Corrected the "color coding/polarity" of the output wires (they were reversed at the factory)
List of materials used for the modifications:


In order to gain access to the innards, without butchering the screws, you need a tool to unscrew the 'triangle' security screws.


With access gained, you are treated to the creamy center within:


The first observation is the "color polarity" of the outputs is reversed. This is only cosmetic, but is easily fixed, so why not.

There appears to be zero over current protection, so I will add that.

The negative connection on the PCB has somewhat fractured (delaminated). As the return path is through the igniter, there is no compulsory reason to terminate this on the PCB, so I will move the battery return to an off-pcb junction.

In order to accommodate the LiPo and Battery Monitor, it's time to get cutting.

First, the C battery terminals and wiring are removed. C batteries won't fit in the battery compartment after the Battery Monitor is installed, so the motivation to keep the C battery support as a backup as not possible.


Next, the Battery Monitor needs to be inserted through the top panel and the battery compartment, a dremel tool is used.


The Battery Monitor wiring, 3S charging cable, rewired battery return junction and wiring exit are completed next.


Let all of the Permatex Ultrablack dry for 24h.

Finally, connect the Battery Monitor harness to the monitor, roll the temperature cable so it will be sandwiched under the LiPo, install the LiPo (connecting it to the JST and to the 3S charge cable) and re-assemble.

This is some good work. Thank you.

I am not very well versed on LiPO batteries. I do know enough to know that balanced charging is important but had not thought about use while its in the PS2. Thanks again. The pics were so helpful.
 
Last edited:
I've been using one of these with a 1250 mAh 3s pack in it for about a decade now....dead stock except that after some fatigue/wear there is only one clip on each lead, not two. I charge that battery once a year, whether it needs it or not, and I fly quite a bit. (So opening the back once a year isn't that big a deal to me.) Even your 1000 mAh pack should be good for dozens and dozens of flights.

That said, neat mods! I will definitely look closely at all you've done and may implement some/all of your updates.

I couldn’t get a lipo to work in my psll controller either. The controller kept ruining the batteries.
I'd be curious to see how it could do that.



added: @ChadM your first two links are reversed from the descriptions. Also, how much power does that DROK battery meter draw? I wonder how much it costs to have that added functionality. Launching a rocket is a couple of seconds of piezo buzzer/LED indicator and around a second of current into the igniter. Of course one could turn the meter on to check status and then turn it off again until the next launch session unless there was an issue, I suppose.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top