I simply do not understand the reasoning behind punching holes in our chutes? Frankly its a weak spot waiting to tear out.
Back in the day Kits came with adhesive backed paper dots, over time the adhesive failed and the shroud would come loose, But most of us competition flyers found a better solution still in use today in just about all competition Mylar chute making. Each shroud line end is bend into a "U" with a small overhand knot tied about 1/2" for the end. I use almost exculsively Chrome Trim Monokote 1/2" x 1/2" square "tape discs" with the U centered on the point of my 6,8, 12 & 16 shroud Mylar or plastic chutes. Once the Mylar square is burnished down on the Mylar or plastic canopy they do not come off. The little knot serves as an anchor, helping to releave stress on the line. I've also done away with cotton string shrouds using 13lb 2-strand Kevlar which has eliminated all burned off shroud lines. Since adding that little overhand knot to the end of the lines under the Mylar tape squares I have yet to loose a shrould line on any size Competition 1/4Mil Mylar or standard plastic sport chute. It's ended all Chute repairs for me other then burn holes or tears from dragging long the ground.
The method even works on those thick, cheap space blankets, which are notorious for easily ripping at any slight nick or cut.
The 13lb kevlar 600yd roll is availble from Edmonds Scientific. for about 20 bucks a roll. Makes a bunch of shroud lines, streamer attachment lines and other things.
Chrome Trim Monokote is available from just about any Hobby vendor.
You guys do what you wish but I will Never put any hole in a chute other then a spill hole at it's apex