Estes Parachute Eyelet rip damage fix?

[JERRYR708]

I have several Estes Parachutes that are mostly in new condition, but with only one flaw. Each one has a single eyelet that has been torn away by a shroud line. I put a reinforcement ring on each one and it still happens once in a while when the winds pick up. Should I put a reinforcement ring on both sides instead of just one side? I use snap swivels attached to the nose cone to prevent twisting.

Is there a proper fix to salvage all of these like new chutes?

 

[hcmbanjo]

The rings on the Estes parachutes are paper and will tear.
If your can easily tear your replacement rings, they are paper.
You might want to replace them with the Avery plastic reinforcement rings. #5729 is the 200 pack, #5720 is the 1,000 pack.

I went into more detail on my blog:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2016/05/whats-up-with-some-estes-parachutes-tip.html

 

[AfterBurners]

Not sure how you are tying the shroud line, but I usually tie it so it doesn't cinch against the plastic. I make sure I leave a gap or a loop. Doubling up the reinforcements should work. Plastic is plastic its bound to give out.

 

[byoungblood]

If you launch often enough to justify the cost, a few small nylon 'chutes with snap swivels to swap between models will solve the problem permanently. They also don't stick in cold weather should you forget to dust the 'chute before launch.

For a quick field repair I've used a bit of masking tape to repair the corner, then punch a small hole through the tape.

 

[JERRYR708]

The rings on the Estes parachutes are paper and will tear.
If your can easily tear your replacement rings, they are paper.
You might want to replace them with the Avery plastic reinforcement rings. #5729 is the 200 pack, #5720 is the 1,000 pack.

I went into more detail on my blog:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2016/05/whats-up-with-some-estes-parachutes-tip.html

The glossy coat on the Estes reinforcement rings were deceiving in making me believe they were the plastic ones. One of the paper rings ripped on it's first launch. I had a JonRocket chute on it that I had been swapping out for all of my rockets. I now noticed that the JonRocket chute has plastic rings now that you mentioned it. (Reason for it surviving dozens of launches) I thought all those rings were the same and never gave it any thought. Thanks for this information and your detailed blog.

AfterBurners, I make the loops like you mentioned with a gap away from the plastic chute. I will double up on the PLASTIC rings this time instead of PAPER rings that Estes provides.

byougblood, I have a few nylon chutes and they are great, but they are too bulky with their thick shrouds to fit in some of the smaller body tubes.

Thanks for all of your advice guys.

 

[Tonimus]

I've often simply tied a knot in the plastic of the corner and used that as a stop to tie the shroud line around. Works well enough, but makes the chute slightly smaller.

 

[Sooner Boomer]

You could probably patch it by cutting a couple of small squares of packing tape and applying one to each side of the rip, sandwiching the ripped off shroud line between.

 

[hcmbanjo]

I had a JonRocket chute on it that I had been swapping out for all of my rockets. I now noticed that the JonRocket chute has plastic rings now that you mentioned it. (Reason for it surviving dozens of launches) I thought all those rings were the same and never gave it any thought. Thanks for this information and your detailed blog.

I designed the JonRocket parachutes. I suggested to all the vendors carrying them (JonRocket, BMS and Apogee) to use the plastic Avery rings, not the paper rings.
This parachute is also 1.5 mil thick, thicker than some others. The Estes parachute is thick but the plastic rings will save it from stretching and tearing.

 

[crossfire]

Better yet purchase some of the Top Flight Recovery 1.1oz Thin Mill chutes from JonRockets and forget about repairs. They will last longer than the rocket.

 

[JERRYR708]

I designed the JonRocket parachutes. I suggested to all the vendors carrying them (JonRocket, BMS and Apogee) to use the plastic Avery rings, not the paper rings.
This parachute is also 1.5 mil thick, thicker than some others. The Estes parachute is thick but the plastic rings will save it from stretching and tearing.

Great parachute design! As soon as I got mine in the mail, I knew I was gonna love it. I liked the fact that I could cut out my own size with the guidelines. The mil thickness was perfect and the quality plastic was there, not that crinkly kind. I like how this plastic drapes nicely, and opens quicker without the fold memory of some. The plastic reinforcement rings are what kept the chute and my rockets safe to this day.

I tried to get more last week on my last order, but they were out of stock. No problem, I will get dozens more flights with my old reliable JonRocket chute. I highly recommend them.

 

[markkoelsch]

Better yet purchase some of the Top Flight Recovery 1.1oz Thin Mill chutes from JonRockets and forget about repairs. They will last longer than the rocket.

+1 to this.

 

[Micromeister]

I simply do not understand the reasoning behind punching holes in our chutes? Frankly its a weak spot waiting to tear out.
Back in the day Kits came with adhesive backed paper dots, over time the adhesive failed and the shroud would come loose, But most of us competition flyers found a better solution still in use today in just about all competition Mylar chute making. Each shroud line end is bend into a "U" with a small overhand knot tied about 1/2" for the end. I use almost exculsively Chrome Trim Monokote 1/2" x 1/2" square "tape discs" with the U centered on the point of my 6,8, 12 & 16 shroud Mylar or plastic chutes. Once the Mylar square is burnished down on the Mylar or plastic canopy they do not come off. The little knot serves as an anchor, helping to releave stress on the line. I've also done away with cotton string shrouds using 13lb 2-strand Kevlar which has eliminated all burned off shroud lines. Since adding that little overhand knot to the end of the lines under the Mylar tape squares I have yet to loose a shrould line on any size Competition 1/4Mil Mylar or standard plastic sport chute. It's ended all Chute repairs for me other then burn holes or tears from dragging long the ground.
The method even works on those thick, cheap space blankets, which are notorious for easily ripping at any slight nick or cut.

The 13lb kevlar 600yd roll is availble from Edmonds Scientific. for about 20 bucks a roll. Makes a bunch of shroud lines, streamer attachment lines and other things.
Chrome Trim Monokote is available from just about any Hobby vendor.

You guys do what you wish but I will Never put any hole in a chute other then a spill hole at it's apex

 

[JERRYR708]

I simply do not understand the reasoning behind punching holes in our chutes? Frankly its a weak spot waiting to tear out.
Back in the day Kits came with adhesive backed paper dots, over time the adhesive failed and the shroud would come loose, But most of us competition flyers found a better solution still in use today in just about all competition Mylar chute making. Each shroud line end is bend into a "U" with a small overhand knot tied about 1/2" for the end. I use almost exculsively Chrome Trim Monokote 1/2" x 1/2" square "tape discs" with the U centered on the point of my 6,8, 12 & 16 shroud Mylar or plastic chutes. Once the Mylar square is burnished down on the Mylar or plastic canopy they do not come off. The little knot serves as an anchor, helping to releave stress on the line. I've also done away with cotton string shrouds using 13lb 2-strand Kevlar which has eliminated all burned off shroud lines. Since adding that little overhand knot to the end of the lines under the Mylar tape squares I have yet to loose a shrould line on any size Competition 1/4Mil Mylar or standard plastic sport chute. It's ended all Chute repairs for me other then burn holes or tears from dragging long the ground.
The method even works on those thick, cheap space blankets, which are notorious for easily ripping at any slight nick or cut.

The 13lb kevlar 600yd roll is availble from Edmonds Scientific. for about 20 bucks a roll. Makes a bunch of shroud lines, streamer attachment lines and other things.
Chrome Trim Monokote is available from just about any Hobby vendor.

You guys do what you wish but I will Never put any hole in a chute other then a spill hole at it's apex

Your method looks like good insurance for rocket recovery. I've had cotton kite string shroud lines burn as the hot gases pass right by them. This was pre BAR before I learned a lot off of TRF. I used to wrap my shroud lines around the chute, no talc powder, chutes folded up in rockets for months, uneven shroud lines, paper reinforcement rings, and no snap swivel, (short) kit supplied shock cord (springing back and knocking fins off and denting the body tube).
Every launch would be a cross your fingers and hold your breath and hope the chute doesn't fail. Everything else with the build, launch and flight seemed to be no problem. It was always the recovery and the good models would always stay on display for fear of a chute failure.
My flight and recovery success has greatly improved from the help of all the awesome people on this forum. I no longer have "Launching Anxiety" and have the confidence to launch my best rockets.